Loving my ROAM frame-mounted side steps/rock sliders

[CUOFFRD]

Actually their website says that the mk3’s are in stock so maybe you will get them fairly quickly

Anthony sent an email and said 2 weeks.

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[Tpham]

is this company from houston? if so have anyone stopped by and just picked them up?

It’s not the shipping that’s taking so long. It’s the manufacturer’s fault.

Anthony sent an email and said 2 weeks.

At that time it was in stock.

 

[CarbonSteel]

is this company from houston? if so have anyone stopped by and just picked them up?

Yes, I did. The shop was about 7 miles from me, but it is not a storefront. From what I understand, the fabrication is done in WY and sales are in TX. Anthony did say they were relocating soon to a different Houston location.

 

[jimmyzwheelz]

Now that I’m really looking at the picture of the flag-nut I’m starting to think that I had it on the wrong side

Oh well if I did I still got it to work

Yes you did...I had no trouble with mine at all. Perfect fit and easy installation!

 

[JeepRAD]

Just ordered mine yesterday!!

 

[JLUSDIEM]

Yes, I did. The shop was about 7 miles from me, but it is not a storefront. From what I understand, the fabrication is done in WY and sales are in TX. Anthony did say they were relocating soon to a different Houston location.

so if its shipped from WY, i would assume i would still have to pay for shipping? i was hoping i could save shipping costs.

 

[quietpeen]

so if its shipped from WY, i would assume i would still have to pay for shipping? i was hoping i could save shipping costs.

they are shipped from Texas

 

[omg]

i couldn'f figure out where the four nuts thingymabobber goes. My other half helped me out [i am mechanically challenged lol]. rest was easy.

initially, i mis aligned the steps and gave two much gap between the body and the steps. had to loosen up the whole thing in driver side, adjust it to 3/8 of inch gap. looks great now.

 

[maxjlu]

got them today. Wont have time until this weekend to put them on.

is there any online document for installation instructions?

Here's the link for Roam MK3 installation https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/roam-mk3-rock-rail-installation.39670/

 

[maxjlu]

i couldn'f figure out where the four nuts thingymabobber goes. My other half helped me out [i am mechanically challenged lol]. rest was easy.

initially, i mis aligned the steps and gave two much gap between the body and the steps. had to loosen up the whole thing in driver side, adjust it to 3/8 of inch gap. looks great now.

Looks great! I think you should leave the gap for preventing future hit / damage.

 

[MacombRoger]

i couldn'f figure out where the four nuts thingymabobber goes. My other half helped me out [i am mechanically challenged lol]. rest was easy.

initially, i mis aligned the steps and gave two much gap between the body and the steps. had to loosen up the whole thing in driver side, adjust it to 3/8 of inch gap. looks great now.

I owe this thread pictures. But the gap is what the gap is, I really don't see any place to really adjust it. I put everything together loosely then tightened bolts to the frame, then the bolts to the rail. Didn't really feel any movement anywhere for adjustments.

 

[steffen707]

Actually I didn't... but Anthony offered them to me as being ready to ship, so I jumped on them. I really like the finish.

Yesterday I wired up the lights in 1 rail. I put the wire in flex loom when it has to transverse the rail so yo don't see any red wires ever. The wires terminate at the front of the rail. from there I will add water proof plugs when I get to that step.

can't wait to get these for my Gladiator!

 

[quietpeen]

I owe this thread pictures. But the gap is what the gap is, I really don't see any place to really adjust it. I put everything together loosely then tightened bolts to the frame, then the bolts to the rail. Didn't really feel any movement anywhere for adjustments.

My drivers side when everything was loose I had a big gap and pushed everything in some. However on the passenger side it was a small gap(especially at the rear end of the rail) and there was no pushing it out. I got the biggest gap I could and tightened everything down

 

[steffen707]

The wiring is pretty easy, but I love that stuff. I picked up a lot of do-dads to make wiring easier, but once I saw the rails, most those plans went out the window, as you don't have much access to the "inside" of the rail.

So here is what I did.
Parts:
1. 8 lights from Oznium. https://www.oznium.com/led-bolts-prewired-leds/led-bolt You need the 11mm ones. I went for Blue with no lens. I originally planned on Yellow so I could use them as running board lights like trucks, but in the end didn't want to introduce another color.

The lights that ship with the rails didn't look too bad to me, but there have been a lot of failures posted here, and I have used Oznium for many projects over the years with 100% success rate. Replacing a light late, would suck!

2. You will need a 11mm drill bit to make the holes slightly larger on the rails. I bought one from Oznium. It drilled out 4.5 holes before snapping. I had a bit at home, the rails beat it down after 1 hole. I had to go to the local hardware store and pick up a 3rd bit, a titanium bit rated for steel. They didn't sell metric, I believe I got a 7/16th which according to packaging is 11.1mm Good enough.

3. Paint, little touch up brush paint or something, whatever you have on hand. Any bare metal should be hit with paint after drilling.

4. Other stuff: Zip ties, shrink tubing, split loom (I had some 3/8" on hand, if you would believe, from my KC lights that I had purchased in 1999 for my 1st jeep, yeah I hold onto parts), and extra wire. The wire on the lights is 22awg, so I picked up extra wire from Amazon of the same size: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKNPGFJ

5. Connectors so I can pull the rails off without having to cut wires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6LTK44

Wiring:
I want the plug/connector at the "Front" of the rail. I'll figure out a route under the Jeep Sunday. I know some people terminated the wires in the middle of the rail, and then pass the wires through the middle cross member support.

Install all lights in the rail. The double nut on the Oznium lights produces a good lock connection. I suppose you could use lock tight too, I did not.

So starting at the back, I soldered extra wire on to the light. Shrink tubed each connection, then shrink tubed the 2 wires to a larger bundle, then shrink tube one more time over it. Shrink tube is fun. Then I put the wire in the split loom, and zip tied the split loom, to a u-bend in the wire at the base of the light. Routing the split loom under the nuts and through the rail to the middle lights took some time. I couldn't find my fish tape, and wiring fish poles are not flexible enough. If you look through the foot holes of the rail, you can sometimes see the split loom, but it being in split loom, its all black and won't be seen unless you are inches away from the rail. I typically don't tape split loom, the wire should fit easily into it and hat way it stay flexible,

In the the front, I ran a wire in split loom back to the "middle lights" location. I zip tied all 4 sets of wires together (2 in split loom, 2 from middle LEDs), trimmed them back to about 8 inches. And then same process. Solder, shrink tube, shrink tube, shrink tube. Then bundle and zip tie between the 2 LEDs as a previous picture showed.

Up front, I left the split loom long. I cut back the LED wire, and twisted it the wire from the "middle", then i "inline" twisted it with "connector" wire. For this to be sealed. You have to feed the shrink tube up the wire first. So the individual ones i fed back on the small wire, and the 2 larger ones fed on to the connector wire. So solder... you end up with a straight wire (x2). Shrink tube each wire, then shrink tube together, and shrink tube again. Then place this finished wire into the Split loom, cutting the split loom so it terminates right at the base of the connector. It 95% fit in the split loom, a little tight around the shrink tube, so then I used black electrical tape so seal the split loom from the connector, down over and past the shrink tube. This results in a finished plug that feels quite automotive worthy. Its a little stiff though.

For now I loosely zip tied the connector inside the rail so its out of the way for rail mounting. Note I used Female connector on the rail, so if its ever disconnected, the power wires from the Jeep are not exposed; as the female end has 2 bare points.

I tested each rail with a 9v Battery. Lights work.

Not mentioned anywhere I have seen, but I also picked up Blue Threadlocker (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEMZ2) to use when I install the rails.

My plan will be to t-tap into the "yellow" wire in one of the foot-wells that provide entry lighting on the Jeep. I will use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQ1CX7N

Questions? Hope this helps somebody.

thanks for that write up!

 

[omg]

I owe this thread pictures. But the gap is what the gap is, I really don't see any place to really adjust it. I put everything together loosely then tightened bolts to the frame, then the bolts to the rail. Didn't really feel any movement anywhere for adjustments.

the 4 and 3 hole flag nuts, once loosely bolted, you can slide up or down, place the step, check the gap, tighten the bolts.

driver side i had almost an inch gap, after adjusting, i was able to reduce the gap and tighten up everything.

passenger side. same adjustment.

note: no matter what i did, i could not adjust the gap at the rear end of passenger, which is at its narrowest gap [as @quietpeen mentioned ]. rest looks good.

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