I had a little but ended up stopping moving forward when it got too close for comfort near the fender line. I was only brave for so far without a snorkel.
Any further and I'm pretty sure i would have needed flippers.
Probably not. It is a Jeep. I've done that a couple times, although not yet with the JL. Just be sure to change the axle fluids. I usually go even further and change the T-case and transmission fluids, too, and oil for good measure. But oil is easier to check and isn't as vulnerable.
Now I have to look to see what the difference is between them. Hahaha
Well, they confirmed there's no need to remove the cover, so I'll have to give it a 4th try over the weekend. Neither the bolt nor the nut would rotate past the cover bolt holes. Thank you for the suggestion; hopefully I won't have to alter the FAD cover.
This is where I get caught up in debating things and end up doing nothing. There's a lot to love about the Element Fire extinguisher - except the price. Plus, I also debate the time it goes for. I've put out small fires with an extinguisher and it just takes a couple of seconds. The EF goes for 50 seconds. If it takes me 20 seconds to put out a fire, I'm going to look pretty stupid spraying the crap out of everything for the next 30 seconds. I know, it is a dumb debate but it is there. Really, for me it comes down to the price. $80 for something that is a one-time-use-only product doesn't excite me. I got two different regular fire extinguisher holders for free from Jeep groups. I think I'll just end up with a regular tank but I know that I'll always be thinking about the E50Small item installed this new style fire extinguisher, it is the size of a road flare, starve the fire with gas, lasts longer than a normal 20lb fire extinguisher, weighs almost nothing, last a long time, does not make a mess but it is one time use and thrown away.
I'd love to see a video of that water crossing!! I bet you were thinking "what did I get myself into?????". Heck my rear end was starting to get tight and water was only up to my rails, of course this was my first river crossing in a vehicle.
I'd be on the roof making casts. Is there any other reason to be in water that deep ?I'd love to see a video of that water crossing!! I bet you were thinking "what did I get myself into?????". Heck my rear end was starting to get tight and water was only up to my rails, of course this was my first river crossing in a vehicle.
It will hold better than the plastic ones if you cut them out on the bottom. You also wont be able to get it clean if you just cut out the insulation to allow the fake ones to work. The heat will end up going up then disbursing under the insulation. You would be better to remove the insulation completely if you want to cut out the stock plastic ones to work. The design of the Poison Spyder ones are cut to allow the heat out, and have less coming in, water or other things. The engine is okay to get wet, they get wet when we go through water crossings. Poison Spyder has been making functional hood louvers for years on the JKs and TJs. These Rubicon ones are designed to work with the insulation to push the heat out and allow better air flow going in to the radiator and out the hood. I know the insulation is designed to help with noise, but I think it also helps to keep the hood paint protected overtime from cracking and peeling.
Oh i sure was wondering what I was thinking about halfway thru, by then i was committed. I ended up stopping about 3/4 the way thru because water was getting way to high. Needless to say, wont be doing that againI'd love to see a video of that water crossing!! I bet you were thinking "what did I get myself into?????". Heck my rear end was starting to get tight and water was only up to my rails, of course this was my first river crossing in a vehicle.
Skimming the bottom for dead bodies? Cleaning the under carriage? Testing door seals? Being stupid
I had the same issue but was able to get the FAD skid back on. RH is making one specifically to work with their LCA front skids.
