@acoz8; I can’t tell you for sure how many different spring part numbers there are, but there are several. I don’t think the differences will amount to a huge height difference...but your best bet for lift would be to find a set of springs and shocks that came off of a JLUR with hardtop and steel bumper package. And you should also be aware that the springs are different lengths on driver and passenger. If my memory serves me correctly, the passenger side is the longer spring.
11) the alignment nubs on the top spring isolators will no longer be correct...you’ll have to trim it off
12) find and watch all the videos you can on installing a spring lift/swapping Rubi springs...usually videos for 2” spring lifts will use similar instructions as this swap.
13) a good ratchet swivel and extensions are a huge help to get to some of the tighter places
14) if I think of any thing else, I’ll edit this to add to it and everyone, if I have made a mistake or you have something to add, I ask that you politely let me know so I can make edits. Happy Jeepin’!!!
The isolators have rubber nubs that line up into a small hole so you know the suspension is lined up correctly. I didn’t have to trim mine off though? I thought the rubicon and JL had the same isolator part numbers.
@DesertRat @Mudawg10; so admittedly I didn’t check beforehand and it’s kind of hard to explain without some springs to show, but I’ll try my best here. Let’s say theoretically each coil of the both non-rubicon and rubicon springs is equal to 1 inch in height. Let’s say that the rubicon springs are 2 inches taller...therefore they would have EXACTLY 2 more coils than the non-rubicon springs. This would mean that the ends of the springs line up perfectly. Now the isolators are not the same thickness all the way around because the ends of your spring are not flat. There is a definite “notch” in both the isolators where the end of the spring sets and the spring can evenly spread load across the entire isolator. If the end of the spring doesn’t sit in this notch properly, the spring then puts all its load essentially on a single point on the isolator and the mount that the isolator sits on. So in our hypothetical example, since the ends line up perfectly, the isolators would not need trimming because as mudawg10 said, the nubs would still line up in the alignment hole on the top mount.
With that being said...I didn’t check, but all the additional engineering that would go into changing spring rates and spring pitch to ensure that all of the ends line up perfectly would probably not be worth it...there are already 4 different springs on your Jeep...not to mention several different combinations of springs to make your set of 4...I figure changing the isolators would be the cheaper option...but I can’t confirm that...maybe mudawg is right and the isolators are all the same part number...which would mean all the isolators would use the same alignment holes regardless of which stock spring you used. With a quick google search it appears that they are universal across the different springs... So while trimming may not be necessary...it doesn’t hurt anything if you do it. Take a look at your springs side by side and see if both ends of the springs line up...if they do...no need to trim...if they don’t...you’ll have to trim.
I’ll edit my original post to note that trimming may not be necessary.
I may have missed the answer to this question. If we're just swapping springs and shocks only, do we need to touch the LCA bolts? Also, it seems like some people are not messing with the track bar either.
me too, over 2 day sessions with my brother.
