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Wiring Halo DRL / Amber Turn Switchbacks, Fender LED DRL / Switchbacks on JL Sport

Xpack109

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So I haven’t looked into it much but are the sport models wired for drls I plan on changing the harness for the fog lamps because I have acquired a set of rubicon fenders with led turns I work at a dealer so adding the sales code won’t be an issue
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danny01

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So I haven’t looked into it much but are the sport models wired for drls I plan on changing the harness for the fog lamps because I have acquired a set of rubicon fenders with led turns I work at a dealer so adding the sales code won’t be an issue
The Sport models ARE wired for DRLs. However, good luck getting the "LMX" sales code added to activate them. I tried doing this exact thing last week at my local dealer and even had to pay $180 for them to open a STAR case.

In conclusion, they claimed that STAR can't alter sales codes and that since the LMX sales code doesn't show up in the dealer list of sales codes, that it can't be added. They even tried to convince me that Sport models aren't compatible with the Rubicon fender flare kit, which is absolute bulls*** since the kit is specifically made as an upgrade for Sport users.

I ended up wasting those $180 for the dealer to tell me it can't be done.

On the bright side, Joe seems to be working on a new update to the Tazer JL which would bring factory DRL functionality for Sport models, so there's that.
 

Command Line RC

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The Sport models ARE wired for DRLs. However, good luck getting the "LMX" sales code added to activate them. I tried doing this exact thing last week at my local dealer and even had to pay $180 for them to open a STAR case.

In conclusion, they claimed that STAR can't alter sales codes and that since the LMX sales code doesn't show up in the dealer list of sales codes, that it can't be added. They even tried to convince me that Sport models aren't compatible with the Rubicon fender flare kit, which is absolute bulls*** since the kit is specifically made as an upgrade for Sport users.

I ended up wasting those $180 for the dealer to tell me it can't be done.

On the bright side, Joe seems to be working on a new update to the Tazer JL which would bring factory DRL functionality for Sport models, so there's that.
I mean...either pay the dealership $180 or go get a Tazer and do it your self.
 

WalkingJL

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So from what I am understanding the sport/sport S models do not come wired for an active DRL. I have a sport S that I put Rubicon fenders and LED turn signals in. The white DRL strips come on in the parking light setting, and with the headlights on, but even after activating the DRL setting to ON with a Flashcal they don't come on. I can only turn on the turn signals to use as DRL's. Is there any way to get the white strips to come on as a DRL on a sport without splicing some wiring?

It appears Danny01 is trying to do the same thing...
 

Command Line RC

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So from what I am understanding the sport/sport S models do not come wired for an active DRL. I have a sport S that I put Rubicon fenders and LED turn signals in. The white DRL strips come on in the parking light setting, and with the headlights on, but even after activating the DRL setting to ON with a Flashcal they don't come on. I can only turn on the turn signals to use as DRL's. Is there any way to get the white strips to come on as a DRL on a sport without splicing some wiring?

It appears Danny01 is trying to do the same thing...
I understand you now. Ya I'm not sure about the white strips. I have a Sport with after market headlights. I had to splice a wire to get the amber lights within my headlights to turn on with my DLR..that I activated via the Tazer. Pic is what I did.

IMG_20190206_163146.jpg
 

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danny01

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So from what I am understanding the sport/sport S models do not come wired for an active DRL. I have a sport S that I put Rubicon fenders and LED turn signals in. The white DRL strips come on in the parking light setting, and with the headlights on, but even after activating the DRL setting to ON with a Flashcal they don't come on. I can only turn on the turn signals to use as DRL's. Is there any way to get the white strips to come on as a DRL on a sport without splicing some wiring?

It appears Danny01 is trying to do the same thing...
All JL models come pre-wired for the fender daytime running lamps. You can take off your front fender flares and see that the wiring harness coming from the engine compartment has 6 wires on it. You will see a white/yellow wire on the driver-side flare harness and a white/dark blue wire on the passenger-side flare harness. These two wires are responsible for supplying power to the DRLs. Both wires originate at the body control module.

However, only Sahara, Rubicon, and Moab models come equipped with the LMX sales code required to activate the DRL circuit from the body control module that sends power to the lights. As of now, the Flascal and the Tazer can't completely activate DRL functionality on Sport and Sport S models. In order for the DRL circuit to activate, 3 checks need to be met:

1. DRL region is set to anything other than OFF. (Configurable with the Tazer/Flashcal)
2. DRL location needs to be set to "Dedicated". (Configurable with the Tazer/Flashcal)
3. DRL toggle from the UConnect screen needs to be set to ON. (NOT configurable with the Tazer/Flashcal)

It's the last check that isn't met on Sport models and hence why the fender DRLs never will illuminate. Sport models don't have access to the UConnect DRL toggle from the factory. In an upcoming Tazer update, Joe will make it so that Sport users can activate the UConnect DRL toggle and then finally be able to turn on the factory DRL circuit.
 

WalkingJL

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Good to know. Thanks! I may have to pickup a tazer and sell my flashcal when this happens.
 

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@danny01 - great tip! Curious if you or anyone know - I installed the Diode Dynamics switchback lights WITHOUT installing the resistor - and used my Tazer to set the turns to LED - I also have the MOPAR LED Tail Lights, the MOPAR LED headlights and the MOPAR LED fogs all swapped out on my Sport S. So, the Switchbacks work and I get no error, no hyperflash, etc. But, the switchbacks are the standard orange until the headlights are turned on - then they switch to white. Is the setting to turn them on for white available with the Tazer or will that need to be a fender/light swap?
 

rjpaterson

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@danny01 - great tip! Curious if you or anyone know - I installed the Diode Dynamics switchback lights WITHOUT installing the resistor - and used my Tazer to set the turns to LED - I also have the MOPAR LED Tail Lights, the MOPAR LED headlights and the MOPAR LED fogs all swapped out on my Sport S. So, the Switchbacks work and I get no error, no hyperflash, etc. But, the switchbacks are the standard orange until the headlights are turned on - then they switch to white. Is the setting to turn them on for white available with the Tazer or will that need to be a fender/light swap?
TexaClone,

I just installed Diode Dynamics Switchbacks and clear side markers this weekend on my 2019 SPORT S. I also did not install resistors and used Flashcal to turn on LED option and no Hyperflash either.
I had exactly same question about running Switchbacks WHITE all the time instead of Amber till headlights turn on.
Just sent email to Diode Dynamics asking if any possibilities to achieve our goal.

Will update thread when I discuss further with them.

Rob
 

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So i'm reading your instructions.... this part below

You will use this 12v source to run into your DRL wire on your headlights (you will run wire down passenger side, tap to passenger DRL, run behind grill in front upper radiator area over to drivers side DRL) and splice off that wire to the white/brown wire on each fender bulb. You will cut the white/brown wire about 2" from the fender bulb socket (put a dead splice on the end going back to the fuse box) and butt splice into that wire.

For your turn signal you will use a T-Tap (best to keep it easy & waterproof) into the White/Green wire, again, about 2" up from bulb socket, you WILL NOT cut this wire, just tap into it. This will go to your Amber halo wire for turn signal switchback function on your headlight halo, mine was a yellow wire from headlight harness (if equipped)


So the first paragraph is about the headlights right? thats where the brown and white wire is that needs to be cut? If i'm only installing the turn signal lights in the fender... and not messing with the headlights, then i dont need to cut any lights... only T-Tap the white/green wire right?
 

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So i'm reading your instructions.... this part below

You will use this 12v source to run into your DRL wire on your headlights (you will run wire down passenger side, tap to passenger DRL, run behind grill in front upper radiator area over to drivers side DRL) and splice off that wire to the white/brown wire on each fender bulb. You will cut the white/brown wire about 2" from the fender bulb socket (put a dead splice on the end going back to the fuse box) and butt splice into that wire.

For your turn signal you will use a T-Tap (best to keep it easy & waterproof) into the White/Green wire, again, about 2" up from bulb socket, you WILL NOT cut this wire, just tap into it. This will go to your Amber halo wire for turn signal switchback function on your headlight halo, mine was a yellow wire from headlight harness (if equipped)


So the first paragraph is about the headlights right? thats where the brown and white wire is that needs to be cut? If i'm only installing the turn signal lights in the fender... and not messing with the headlights, then i dont need to cut any lights... only T-Tap the white/green wire right?
Mine is set up to run DRLs on the fender lights, that's why the white/brown wire going back to the fuse box is cut and that wire coming from the turn bulb socket is then running to my DRL circuit wire (fuse 57).
If you just want to run switchback fender turn signals (and don't have halo switchbacks in your headlights) you don't need a T-tap, just remove the OEM halogen bulb and install the new fender LED switchback. My Oracle switchbacks that I linked in the first post don't need any resistors and you won't get a hyperflash or bulb out warning.
 

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Mine is set up to run DRLs on the fender lights, that's why the white/brown wire going back to the fuse box is cut and that wire coming from the turn bulb socket is then running to my DRL circuit wire (fuse 57).
If you just want to run switchback fender turn signals (and don't have halo switchbacks in your headlights) you don't need a T-tap, just remove the OEM halogen bulb and install the new fender LED switchback. My Oracle switchbacks that I linked in the first post don't need any resistors and you won't get a hyperflash or bulb out warning.
Ok I think I understand. My situation is that I ordered the bulbs for the fender lights and id like them to run as drls. I plan on getting some headlights with halos in the future but in the meantime id like to just run the fenders as drls. The white Brown wire you speak of...is that in the fenders or headlight housing? I plan on tapping the fuse like you did and running it to both fenders but what to cut or tsp 3 once there is where things are getting fuzzy for me.

Fyi headlights I'll probably add nettle the year is up just not right now.
 
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Ok I think I understand. My situation is that I ordered the bulbs for the fender lights and id like them to run as drls. I plan on getting some headlights with halos in the future but in the meantime id like to just run the fenders as drls. The white Brown wire you speak of...is that in the fenders or headlight housing? I plan on tapping the fuse like you did and running it to both fenders but what to cut or tsp 3 once there is where things are getting fuzzy for me.

Fyi headlights I'll probably add nettle the year is up just not right now.
This is the fender bulb wires, they're wrapped together, a white w/ brown trace, white w/ green trace, and black grounding wire.
If you click on this pic it should enlarge, you can see a very faint light brown trace on the wire going into the fender bulb socket. If you want to run them as DRLs you will have to cut that wire (and cap the end that runs back to the fuse box) and connect that to the 12v wire coming from fuse 57. Be sure to cut the white/brown wire back far enough so you have wire to work with in case you ever want/need to reconnect it back to stock configuration later on.
100_4076-jpg.jpg
 

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