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Jeep Wave program apparently includes full synthetic oil change?

Specter491

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When the salesman told me that I double checked and he confirmed this. Pretty cool!
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Surprising for sure. I had an oil change on my 18 GC (with 3.6) and the guy told me synthetic is now required. I called BS. Sure enough it’s in the manual. So it makes sense. Makes Jeep Wave a decent deal.
 

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0w20 is available in full synthethic or synthetic blend. Better ask your dealer to confirm if they use full synthethic or a blend.

Question: does the 0w matter in warmer climates vs 5w? Let’s say you live in the southwest, does 5w20 perform the same as 0w20 in warmer climates?

The JK 3.6 called for 5w20. Has anything really changed in the JL 3.6 to require 0w20 or is Jeep just trying to improve mpg by using a “lighter” oil?
 

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0w20 is available in full synthethic or synthetic blend. Better ask your dealer to confirm if they use full synthethic or a blend.

Question: does the 0w matter in warmer climates vs 5w? Let’s say you live in the southwest, does 5w20 perform the same as 0w20 in warmer climates?

The JK 3.6 called for 5w20. Has anything really changed in the JL 3.6 to require 0w20 or is Jeep just trying to improve mpg by using a “lighter” oil?
Exactly this. In non freezing climates you have no need of a 0w oil at all. Either will protect your engine just fine.
 

WXman

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0w20 is available in full synthethic or synthetic blend. Better ask your dealer to confirm if they use full synthethic or a blend.

Question: does the 0w matter in warmer climates vs 5w? Let’s say you live in the southwest, does 5w20 perform the same as 0w20 in warmer climates?

The JK 3.6 called for 5w20. Has anything really changed in the JL 3.6 to require 0w20 or is Jeep just trying to improve mpg by using a “lighter” oil?
The first number is the "cold" rating. Like others said, no need for 0 weight unless you live at a high latitude with lots of cold weather. However, the top number IS the critical one because that's your viscosity while driving the Jeep at operating temperature. 20 weight is not going to protect as well as 30 weight or higher. In hot climates, I personally would never use 0W20. Ever. Unless you are leasing your Jeep and know for a fact that you'll never own it out of warranty.

As soon as my free oil changes are used up, I'm going to 5W30 synthetic.
 

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Texas_Yote

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The first number is the "cold" rating. Like others said, no need for 0 weight unless you live at a high latitude with lots of cold weather. However, the top number IS the critical one because that's your viscosity while driving the Jeep at operating temperature. 20 weight is not going to protect as well as 30 weight or higher. In hot climates, I personally would never use 0W20. Ever. Unless you are leasing your Jeep and know for a fact that you'll never own it out of warranty.

As soon as my free oil changes are used up, I'm going to 5W30 synthetic.
This inst really true regarding 20w oil. Due to the tight tolerances and to get things warmed up faster 20w is perfectly fine. Typically the weight of the oil is determined by the bearing clearances. Unless you know the clearances I wouldn't make a change to a stock motor designed to run a particular weight unless you are going boosted..

I run a 5w20 in my 800whp mustang and I live in texas, not only that I am on e85 so all the necessary items plus more that says I shouldn't run a 20 weight oil. Fact remains the thinner oil coats better and makes it through the motor easier resulting in better protection. I would be more concerned with oil break down vs weight in the case of a stock oil. Break down occurs with extended heat periods lets say above 230* which no one here is doing. So while 5w20 can act more like water than oil if you get it hot enough. The downside of going thicker is that when you're not at your hot operating temperatures the engine may get less protection.

So unless you are hot lapping your Jeep I recommend running the weight of oil the motor was designed to run...A number of guys on the mustang forum found out the hard way a 5w50 or 5w40 wasn't the best thing to run when their motors took a crap on them..
 

Texas_Yote

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Texas_Yote

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Also, if you want to really analyze your oil you can speak with Blackstone Labs. I sent of a sample of my Mobile 1 5w20 to see how things were going to ensure I was using the right oil for my application. On my 800whp application it began breaking down at 1500 miles but didn't need changing. I now run an oil specific to the Coyote motor but it is still the 5w20 weight.
 

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This inst really true regarding 20w oil. Due to the tight tolerances and to get things warmed up faster 20w is perfectly fine. Typically the weight of the oil is determined by the bearing clearances. Unless you know the clearances I wouldn't make a change to a stock motor designed to run a particular weight unless you are going boosted..

I run a 5w20 in my 800whp mustang and I live in texas, not only that I am on e85 so all the necessary items plus more that says I shouldn't run a 20 weight oil. Fact remains the thinner oil coats better and makes it through the motor easier resulting in better protection. I would be more concerned with oil break down vs weight in the case of a stock oil. Break down occurs with extended heat periods lets say above 230* which no one here is doing. So while 5w20 can act more like water than oil if you get it hot enough. The downside of going thicker is that when you're not at your hot operating temperatures the engine may get less protection.

So unless you are hot lapping your Jeep I recommend running the weight of oil the motor was designed to run...A number of guys on the mustang forum found out the hard way a 5w50 or 5w40 wasn't the best thing to run when their motors took a crap on them..
Ford spec'd 5W50 on Performance Pack cars for a good reason, despite having nearly identical 5.0 engines. The lower oil spec on common vehicles is for CAFE and to save the manufacturer money. It's hardly their goal to make an engine go 250,000 miles. In fact, they'd probably rather it didn't so they'll hopefully get a repeat customer.

I split the difference and run 5W30 in my Mach and my Blackstone reports are flawless at 132,000 miles and the car still hurts a lot of feelings on cruise nights.
 

Texas_Yote

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Ford spec'd 5W50 on Performance Pack cars for a good reason, despite having nearly identical 5.0 engines. The lower oil spec on common vehicles is for CAFE and to save the manufacturer money. It's hardly their goal to make an engine go 250,000 miles. In fact, they'd probably rather it didn't so they'll hopefully get a repeat customer.

I split the difference and run 5W30 in my Mach and my Blackstone reports are flawless at 132,000 miles and the car still hurts a lot of feelings on cruise nights.
S197 not S550, the Coyote evolved with the body change. Tighter tolerances, difference in bearing, crank shaft and removal of the oil cooling jets just to name a few. The only motor not getting 5w20 is the Voodoo.

In the end, I bought the lifetime warranty for the JL so if the motor locks up, I'll get a new one for $100...but just because the weight is a 5w20 you cannot say it is going to kill the motor and that is the plan of the auto builders. Reality is most will trade in their car well before it hits 250 or even 100k, that seems to be to societal norm.
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