2DR ride on Load E tires vs Load D/C

[Pigtrailrv]

Interested in what load rating tires most of the 2DR crowd is running. I have OEM load C on my 2021 2DR Willys but going to 35"'s soon. I was told by the local Jeep shop that it will daily drive like garbage with Load E tires. I will have a Metal Cloak 2.5" game changer with Rocksports shocks on it also. We do air down to 16-18 off road.

It is a daily driver but we do off road parks and Colorado trails too. Thinking Load C or D. Thanks!

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[Vanburi]

I don't think it will drive like garbage. I think it will drive like a jeep on big tires. Will be nice to hear some thoughts from people with the same lift for the best comparison.

 

[Reinen]

Interested in what load rating tires most of the 2DR crowd is running. I have OEM load C on my 2021 2DR Willys but going to 35"'s soon. I was told by the local Jeep shop that it will daily drive like garbage with Load E tires. I will have a Metal Cloak 2.5" game changer with Rocksports shocks on it also. We do air down to 16-18 off road.

It is a daily driver but we do off road parks and Colorado trails too. Thinking Load C or D. Thanks!

They won't necessarily ride like garbage but they will be firm and you will feel the road. You'll want to drop the PSI to make them a little softer, which will reduce tread life. Go with C or D if you can.

 

[Pigtrailrv]

I drive an F-450 with load E tires so I have an idea of the ride. Of course, that is a 9300 pound vehicle too.

Best I can tell the E and D rated tires have 3 ply sidewalls and a C rated has 2 ply. I don't know how much of an issue this is when airing down a C. Many of the youtubers state that airing down a load E tire to 15 psi on a 2DR barely increases the tread contact area due to the light vehicle weight. Is 15 psi too low for an E rated non-beadlock tire?

I can live with the ride quality on the road if an E rated tire is best when airing down.

I may keep it simple and light and go with these C rated:

https://tiresize.com/tires/BFGoodrich/All-Terrain-TA-KO2-315-70R17.htm

 

[jjvincent]

I’m going to guess that the local Jeep shop goes by lots of real world experience. For example: Customer brings in certain parts or requests them. After that, they come back and complain due to whatever issue from said parts. Unless you are loading your Jeep up with weight like my RV (which takes load range E) so that would be the choice you need. I have a 26’ class C and 6 wheels with a gross weight of 14k lbs. I did check my 2021 Sport and it’s a tad less gross weight.

 

[Reinen]

I drive an F-450 with load E tires so I have an idea of the ride. Of course, that is a 9300 pound vehicle too.

Best I can tell the E and D rated tires have 3 ply sidewalls and a C rated has 2 ply. I don't know how much of an issue this is when airing down a C. Many of the youtubers state that airing down a load E tire to 15 psi on a 2DR barely increases the tread contact area due to the light vehicle weight. Is 15 psi too low for an E rated non-beadlock tire?

I can live with the ride quality on the road if an E rated tire is best when airing down.

I may keep it simple and light and go with these C rated:

https://tiresize.com/tires/BFGoodrich/All-Terrain-TA-KO2-315-70R17.htm

Well, there are other factors involved when airing down, wheel width being a big one, so it's hard to say what's too low. Ultimately it's never too low until you break a bead or a rock hits your wheel. Lower PSI just makes that more likely to happen so where do you draw the line?

But E tires would resist increasing tread contact more, require a lower PSI, would have a greater unsprung weight, rougher on-road ride (which may or may not be a problem to you). It just introduces negatives without much positives. I switch between C and D tires between summer/winter and I can easily tell the difference. An E tire, while certainly doable, might be a little much and unnecessary for a light weight 2dr.

 

[Pigtrailrv]

My conclusion was an E tire isn't necessary for this application, I appreciate your input. I think a C/D is what I need. I just want to make sure I wasn't missing something not so obvious. I will be running a 17x9 wheel with about 4.5 back spacing, -12mm offset.

I know on my F-450 it is dangerous to air down the 19.5 Continental tires and reinflate them.

Thank you.

 

[blnewt]

My E-rated Patagonias (295/70/17s) have been fine as far as comfort for daily driving. The Pats have softer rubber than most tires though so that may play a part. One plus for E's is more durable if you are running sharp, jagged rocks or areas where a puncture would be more likely. The Es have a thicker carcass so they should be less prone to road hazards. The Pats air down to 15 lbs just fine, ran a few days in the San Juans that way without any problems.

My next set that I'm mounting are D-rated Mickey Thompsons (315/70/17s). I think this is a great compromise, a bit more compliance when airing down vs an E but a bit more protection overall vs a C.

Another consideration is weight, Es can get pretty heavy, especially vs. a C.

 

[J0E]

Many of the youtubers state that airing down a load E tire to 15 psi on a 2DR barely increases the tread contact area due to the light vehicle weight. Is 15 psi too low for an E rated non-beadlock tire?

E tires with bad ride is a common myth. Like you said, E has one more sidewall ply. After blowing my 3rd C or KoH tear assing on rocky roads, my mechanic said get E's. Never blown an E going fast over rocks. The extra ply isn't going to hold up 1,400 lbs. See my https://bt39.com/ which has proven pretty accurate on drop v. pressure. Every time you half the air pressure, you double the patch size. While non-beadlocks are safe to 15 lbs, beadlocks can air down to 5 lbs, which gives you tripple the footprint.

 

[qnet]

My 35" Mickey Thompson's are rated load D. They ride good on the road. My lift is the Dynatrack 2" .

 

[Kreepin1]

I know on my F-450 it is dangerous to air down the 19.5 Continental tires and reinflate them.

That is because of the steel sidewall ply. If you drive any appreciable distance on them aired down it can weaken the sidewall and lead to a potentially fatal "zipper failure." You can't make this stuff up!

I used to ignore load range on Jeep tires but have recently seen the light. Load range C is better but sometimes you have to go higher to get the size and/or tread pattern you want. Case in point are the 35x11.5R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers I'm running now. They are heavy load range C tires with tough sidewalls, but oddly they flex really well aired down. I run 12 in the sand and 14-15 in the rocks to keep the sidewall from getting pinched against the wheel. I originally thought I'd need beadlocks but with sidewalls this flexible there is no need.

 

[Old Dogger]

I run only C Rated tires on my Jeeps threw out the years and have never blow a sidewall. But only quality Tires like Nitto's, or Falken's.

 

[blnewt]

I run only C Rated tires on my Jeeps threw out the years and have never blow a sidewall. But only quality Tires like Nitto's, or Falken's.

You still have that 74 CJ? I sure miss mine

 

[Old Dogger]

Nope, but I sure do wish that I did. It was my favorite Jeep off Road...

 

[J0E]

I run only C Rated tires on my Jeeps threw out the years and have never blow a sidewall. But only quality Tires like Nitto's, or Falken's.

Grandad never wore seat belts, he never had a problem. Milage varies.

I've never had a sidewall blowout either. But after KoH driving on rocky logging roads blew my 3rd C tire, I listened to my mechanic and went with E's. Never blown an E.

I don't KoH type driving now, just rock crawling, but I like the extra sidewall ply for that. E is a big plus for me, but not required.

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