rmartino99
Well-Known Member
JUst curious, if they will not ship til 11/30 or later when will the credit card be charged?
Sponsored
Mine was charged. I’m fine with that.JUst curious, if they will not ship til 11/30 or later when will the credit card be charged?
Your product video states 3200 lumens at 5500K at the 52 second mark. Heres a screen grab of the video.The total Lumen output is 5200LM. I'm looking on the product page and not seeing any other number listed anywhere. Not sure where you think you see that. Can you show me where you are seeing something different so it can be corrected?
Specifications:
Wattage: 36W Each
Total Lumens: 5200LM
Color Temp: 5500K
Certification: DOT SAE 5839-504 HL VOR 19
Warranty: 2 Years
-Rachel
Payment is taken at the time of purchase to reserve your set in the limited group buy.JUst curious, if they will not ship til 11/30 or later when will the credit card be charged?
Gotcha, thanks for letting us know. This must have been missed when we updated the product last year; I'll get with the video team to revise this. The correct Lumen count is 5200.Your product video states 3200 lumens at 5500K at the 52 second mark. Heres a screen grab of the video.
Yes, these will work just as factory for the auto high beam.I am interested in these. Two questions I would like a clearer answer on:
Q1: Will these lights work with & in the same way as the factory-installed auto highbeam mode?
The halo is run as ignition so it will come on anytime you start the car.Q2: Do these lights function as daytime running lights in the same way as factory-installed LED lights?
Missy- Please explain this to me like I'm a small child. I have factory LED with the DRL Halo. Does the DRL/heating plug in EXACTLY where the factory does, thus retaining all of the optional functionality? If by "fuse-tapped in", you are referring to running a separate wire to the fusebox, and this is NOT "plug-n-play". While I'm perfectly capable of running wires, this is NOT what I'm looking for in this situation, and using the term"plug-n-play" is deceptive. Please advise, as I may want to cancel my order.The Oculus light is in fact plug and play as it does not need any splicing of wires. The headlight plugs directly into your existing plug. The wire for the DRL is the same as the heating element and this just needs to be fuse tapped in, which doesn't require any cutting. The Y adapter we have on the light allows you to move the fuse from the driver to the passenger side, since your fuse box is on the other side.
Any further questions please let me know!
-Missy
Thank you, Rwaargle...If your JL came with LEDs from factory, it's pure P&P with halo DRL.
If it came with halogens, then you'll need to run an included adapter to the fusebox to gain halo DRL functionality. You can skip this step if you don't care for the halo.
I forgot to mention, the heating elements draw power from the main headlights, so you don't need to run the halo DRL wires to gain defrost functionality.
Disregard everything I said. I got confused with the non-heated version of it.@ORACLElights
is what rwaargle writes here true?
if so, why can't we get this information from you, the Manufacturer? this seems to run contrary to what you've been sharing; what's the real story?
please be detailed in your response.
The definition of plug and play pertains to no splicing of wirings. The heated and non heated Oculus does not require splicing of any wires. The headlight plugs directly into the factory plug, and there is a fuse tap you run for the wire for the DRLS.Missy- Please explain this to me like I'm a small child. I have factory LED with the DRL Halo. Does the DRL/heating plug in EXACTLY where the factory does, thus retaining all of the optional functionality? If by "fuse-tapped in", you are referring to running a separate wire to the fusebox, and this is NOT "plug-n-play". While I'm perfectly capable of running wires, this is NOT what I'm looking for in this situation, and using the term"plug-n-play" is deceptive. Please advise, as I may want to cancel my order.
Thank you, Rwaargle...
Okay. I was really confused because there are contradicting information, so I went through the prototype thread and found detailed information.@ORACLElights
is what rwaargle writes here true?
if so, why can't we get this information from you, the Manufacturer? this seems to run contrary to what you've been sharing; what's the real story?
please be detailed in your response.
The design is 100% plug and play and no additional wiring required for the heating element. Integrated temperature sensors are built into the lights and the lights include a small status LED to tell you when the heater element is on.
The majority of posters voted for option 1, and that's what Oculus appears to have went with. It makes sense to draw power from the headlight wires instead of using the fuse adapter, as the fuse adapter plugs into the cigarette lighter fuse slot which is limited to 20A. This is the smarter move as the other heated LED headlight manufacturers do the same thing and have their heating elements draw power from headlights.So now we are developing the switching system. Our question to those who frequently drive in snow: Do you prefer the heating element to work off of a temperature sensor to turn the heat on and off based on a pre-set temperature threshold? Would you rather a separate power cable that can be tapped to the defroster switch (or possibly to a manual switch)?
Option 1: Temperature Sensor
Pros: Easy to install, no additional wiring.
Cons: Power is jumped from the headlight power input so the heater would not turn on unless you turn the headlights on.
Option 2: Separate Power Cable Tapped to Defroster
Pros: Will start defrosting the headlights with windshield defroster when vehicle is remote started.
Cons: Requires additional wiring connection during installation.
The definition of plug and play pertains to no splicing of wirings. The heated and non heated Oculus does not require splicing of any wires. The headlight plugs directly into the factory plug, and there is a fuse tap you run for the wire for the DRLS.
If you are looking for something to plug in and not run a wire, this may not be for you.
You can watch the installation video here.
Thank you! Missy