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Mopar 2 inch lift Reviews

Gadgettr1

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Mopars lift works well with 37's. They rubbed slightly at first. I only needed to back out the steering stops a couple turns to stop a slight rub on the Synergy LCA's. I used a heat gun to flatten the bump out on rear plastic liners without further issues. Being able to run stock fenders and liners saved a bunch of money. On trails I really think 37's are the sweet spot size for JLU's. I will be dropping down to 35's when these wear out. I think my 2 dr. will be fine with 35's. Many and myself included are doing fine with 4.10's and the automatic. I will never dump money into my D44's. It's a never ending money pit. Bigger axles are money well spent.
I’ve got the Mopar 125k warranty. But if the dealer will keep the warranty if they do the swap I’m going to go to 4.88s. I have the 8 speed auto and I don’t use 8th gear that often anymore. If I can find a light 37 I may up the tire size when my Ridge Grapplers are done, possibly KO2s since we usually get some good snow here in Mass but I’m not a big fan of them.
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Gadgettr1

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Lite Brite has a Youtube video that finds a grear swap is of questionable value.
That’s a pretty cool/interesting video. I’m looking at changing the gears more for low end crawling, I’m not worried about the gas mileage (it sucks lol) and to actually use 8th gear.
 

Gadgettr1

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I only just started driving my rig on the freeways at high speeds and I have found old school shifting enjoyment on the interstate. Manual mode 7th is the norm with 6th for uphills and 8th for down. Keeping my 3.6 JLR rolling at between 2,200 and 2,500 RPM's seems a comfortable sweet spot and I got good MPGs on my 3500 trip according to the shown dash disply...
MPG from dash.jpeg
I averaged just over 19 mpg on a highway trip to the NJ Jeep Invasion this summer. Using cruise control in auto mode with my tires pumped up to 38 psi ( I normally run 28-30psi). But I also drafted semi’s whenever possible.
 

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Lite Brite has a Youtube video that finds a gear swap is of questionable value.
I swapped gears to 4.56 and it was a great move. I've got the manual transmission, though, so it put the ratios into a more usable place for me. Especially 6th gear.
 

DanW

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How long did it take? I also have the Clayton relocate kit coming with it. Too expensive to hang like an 80 year olds cash and prizes from the front.
I think it would have taken 4 days, but Fed Ex is terrible, so it became 7 or 8. It did arrive today, after Fed Ex sent me a text saying it was delayed to Monday. So I'll be throwing it on tomorrow.
 

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entropy

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In my own experience ive never seen a lack of torque to accomplish an obstacle. And I do push my rig hard sometimes. I did have to use momentum when I was open on my sport. Once I locked I am crawling through obstacles. Momentum doesnt really help much anymore.

I am sure rubicon gearing and transfer case would help and make things a bit easier. But it is really the lockers what change the name of the game. These JLs have plenty of juice and a sport driver would just need to get a little more skilful thats all.

Sports do just fine. Nobody needs a Rubicon. But lockers do make an enormous difference. A locked sport can do anything a rubicon can do with the same lift and tires of course.
 

DanW

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In my own experience ive never seen a lack of torque to accomplish an obstacle. And I do push my rig hard sometimes. I did have to use momentum when I was open on my sport. Once I locked I am crawling through obstacles. Momentum doesnt really help much anymore.

I am sure rubicon gearing and transfer case would help and make things a bit easier. But it is really the lockers what change the name of the game. These JLs have plenty of juice and a sport driver would just need to get a little more skilful thats all.

Sports do just fine. Nobody needs a Rubicon. But lockers do make an enormous difference. A locked sport can do anything a rubicon can do with the same lift and tires of course.
Actually, I think the sway bar disconnect is extremely useful, too. But a manual disconnect is easy to install on a Sport, as well.

The crawl ratio does make a difference with a manual transmission in the rocks. I've wheeled with Sports who stalled quite a bit with the taller gearing.

Eaton has E-Lockers available now, too, I think, so that'd be a great option for the Sports if so desired.
 

entropy

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Actually, I think the sway bar disconnect is extremely useful, too. But a manual disconnect is easy to install on a Sport, as well.

The crawl ratio does make a difference with a manual transmission in the rocks. I've wheeled with Sports who stalled quite a bit with the taller gearing.

Eaton has E-Lockers available now, too, I think, so that'd be a great option for the Sports if so desired.
I am assuming everyone is disconnecting on the trail. If i didnt i wouldve already rolled lol. Yeah i am talking auto transmission with the sport gearing. I am tackling obstacles that are eating my stock skids, and i need to get rid of cross member and get a better skid asap. I am doing "hard" stuff but nothing extreme. Torque on the wheels has never ever been an issue at all. The gearing stuff is very overestimated by folk here on the internet. I am sure there is a 1% of people tackling obstacles well beyond my level and for them it is probably very important.

But I am doing stuff most people would consider way out of their comfort zone and regearing is not really worth it with the auto transmission. Lockers definitely are.

Ive wheeled my jeep at every stage from bone stock sport. It is funny as your level increases you are like wow this thing is so capable. Then you get stuck and realize you need bigger tires and better suspension. Then you get stuck and start feeling that traction sucks and you need a locker. Then you keep trying harder stuff and realize you need even more lift, real skids and bigger tires. Then you stop for a second and realize maybe it is time to chill out and stop pushing the jeep further lol. Better transfer case or gearing has never really been an issue for me. I am sure if i keep leveling up eventually it will. But i would seriously have to start pushing gnarly stuff and I am rethinking how far do i wanna go. I am already doing black diamond trails here in california, and some times picking harder lines on purpose. i think this is enough for me.
 

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I am assuming everyone is disconnecting on the trail. If i didnt i wouldve already rolled lol. Yeah i am talking auto transmission with the sport gearing. I am tackling obstacles that are eating my stock skids, and i need to get rid of cross member and get a better skid asap. I am doing "hard" stuff but nothing extreme. Torque on the wheels has never ever been an issue at all. The gearing stuff is very overestimated by folk here on the internet. I am sure there is a 1% of people tackling obstacles well beyond my level and for them it is probably very important.

But I am doing stuff most people would consider way out of their comfort zone and regearing is not really worth it with the auto transmission. Lockers definitely are.

Ive wheeled my jeep at every stage from bone stock sport. It is funny as your level increases you are like wow this thing is so capable. Then you get stuck and realize you need bigger tires and better suspension. Then you get stuck and start feeling that traction sucks and you need a locker. Then you keep trying harder stuff and realize you need even more lift, real skids and bigger tires. Then you stop for a second and realize maybe it is time to chill out and stop pushing the jeep further lol. Better transfer case or gearing has never really been an issue for me. I am sure if i keep leveling up eventually it will. But i would seriously have to start pushing gnarly stuff and I am rethinking how far do i wanna go. I am already doing black diamond trails here in california, and some times picking harder lines on purpose. i think this is enough for me.
I built up from a Sport when I had my TJ. Agreed on most points.


However, when trying to crawl with a manual, regear and the 4:1 transfer case of a Rubicon is essential. Otherwise you're just lunging over obstacles all day
 

jeepoch

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@sourdough,

I don't believe you derailed this thread. After all why would anyone want a lift in the first place. Your posts give experience and insight as to the reasoning behind why you would want to consider one in the first place.

Also, I was one of the posters to state that I take my Sport where typically only Rubicon's go. I didn't intend to detail this thread either by debating the really cool things (as you point out) that the Rubicon package offers. No debate, Rubicon's rock. Truthfully, I'm jealous. Really.

My point is that with a [Mopar] lift and a few other modifications, I've been able to at least play with the big boys. In any competition with a Rubicon, my Sport and I would like be embarrassed regularly. Regardless, I am at least in the game.

Would I be able to do that without a lift in a stock Sport, not a chance. But that was why I responded (in a polite way). Rubicon's are awesome but that doesn't mean you absolutely have to have one in order to play outside on difficult terrain. I can take my Sport nearly anywhere a Rubicon could. Not necessarily everywhere, but damn close.

The moral of the story is that yes no matter the trim, a Mopar (or any lift) is a great investment. It will make any stock Wrangler a way more capable off-road vehicle.

Jay
 

Yogi

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$1800 CDN? When was that? I just got a quote for $2800 CDN installed with alignment. And that's with a pretty good price on the lift.
Also. Do you have part number for the Mopar track bar? When I asked, they pointed me towards Rubicon Express or Rancho track bars.
April/May 2019.
Part # is 68394087AA ... It's a factory number and the "AA" denotes an upgraded/updated factory part. When I got mine there were two listed, the original and this upgraded/updated part. We went with the newest one as it was supposed to work with Mopar 2" lift. Apparently it's like 1/2" longer than the original.
That being said, if you are planning on going higher at a later date, I would suggest something like a Street Smarts/Yeti adjustable track bar right from the outset.
 

Dyolfknip74

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April/May 2019.
Part # is 68394087AA ... It's a factory number and the "AA" denotes an upgraded/updated factory part. When I got mine there were two listed, the original and this upgraded/updated part. We went with the newest one as it was supposed to work with Mopar 2" lift. Apparently it's like 1/2" longer than the original.
That being said, if you are planning on going higher at a later date, I would suggest something like a Street Smarts/Yeti adjustable track bar right from the outset.
Ya, now with a discount, lift alone is $2100 CDN and install $600ish.

I ended up getting Rancho front and rears.

As soon as they get here, she's going in.
 

Bullwinkle

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Alex,

I certainly respect your viewpoint. There are likely a boatload (pun intended) of Jeepers that drive a certain way no matter what trim level they are piloting. Can't deny that. However, you know as well as almost all Jeep enthusiasts that lockers are one of the most desired pieces of equipment for just about any real serious 4 wheel situation. At least one single non-slipping wheel on any axle will provide motive power. This is what makes Rubicons so much more desirable for off-road applications.

Open differentials on the other hand don't enjoy the same physics. Without lockers, any spinning wheel on that axle renders that entire axle useless. With open diffs power is routed (by design) to the wheel with the least resistance. In other words the one with the least amount of traction. This in the bigger picture provides the way cool ability to turn the axle without binding or generating tire hop. That's why you can't run lockers on hard, dry pavement. It would grind, shave off and make mincemeat out of your diff gears pretty quickly.

Try running your lockers on pavement and make a tight turn. You won't be doing that very often.

So the Jeepers who don't have lockers must be way more cognizant of TRACTION. If any wheel on both axles (at the same time) slip then all motive effort is lost. This means that BOTH wheels on at least one axle must have traction in order to maintain momentum. This is Jeep physics 101. No way around it. Clearly if you don't take this limitation into account and (like the Rubicon jocks) just hit the throttle, you'll very quickly lose inertia and come to an unwanted stop (with all four wheels still slipping just spinning faster).

So for the Sports pilots, if you don't lay off the accelerator and use the least amount of torque to maintain traction, then you are going to run into trouble pretty quickly. [That's not a threat, that's a promise.] A heavy foot always raises the probability for even more wheel slip. Sports must therefore always use just the minimum power to maintain traction (period).

Rubicon jockeys with the lockers generally find that applying more (not less) power gets them out of trouble in most circumstances. Typically at least one wheel finds traction and vehicle momentum can be maintained. Still this creates more stress and a higher potential to break things.

In summary, if your driving all Jeep trims in the exact same way, you are asking for trouble. Driving a Sport with too much throttle, will generally be problematic. While driving a Rubi gives you the possibility of applying more power it's not always the best technique. Regardless, most people certainly would enjoy the Rubicon experience just because it's fun to apply more (not less) power to get out of sticky situations. It requires a lot more situational awareness, concentration and discipline to lay off the throttle. Sports drivers excel with the difficult skill of having a 'feather' foot.

Lastly, one MAJOR advantage that JL's have over their predecessors is that they all employ something called Brake Lock Differential (BLD). This is enabled even on Rubicon's when it's lockers are not engaged. This is a software implemented feature that detects wheel slip on any wheel. When one wheel on any particular axle is spinning faster than it's opposite side, the brake on the faster spinning (slipping) wheel is automatically applied. Thus keeping some amount of power available on the opposite wheel. With lockers engaged, both wheels spin at the exact same rate so the BLD doesn't apply.

So I suppose the argument can be made that the JL can tolerate someone who drives the Sport much more like a Rubicon. But, it's always a good idea to use the least amount of torque to maintain traction independent of trim type.

So if you are going to drive every Jeep trim level the same, it's safest and most optimal to always drive it like a Sport.

[Edit]
In addition to the diffs there is also the matter of sway bar disconnects. Good luck with articulation on a stock sport.

Since this thread is more about lifting your rig, I'm also assuming that the entire suspension in general is being examined as a whole with the overall goal is achieving a much better off-road experience.

For me and my Sport, the Mopar lift, wheels, 35's and a sway bar disconnect were by far my best mods. My Jeep is a thing of joy both on and especially off-road. I may not have a Rubi, but I certainly know I can go anywhere they do. Although admittedly they can play in the insane rock crap all they want. Regardless, if you do get a lift (no matter the type), don't skimp on the rubber. TRACTION will always be your friend no matter the trim. Everything else is just a bonus.

Jay
Does the sport S have the sway bar disconnect? LOL, does the sport S have a sway bar at all? Sorry, My ignorance with my jeep and what it has and or needs is immeasurable...
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