Mopar 2 inch lift Reviews

[Gadgettr1]

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...x4-front-axle-disconnect-fad-skid-plate-black

Quick, easy install and it is much thicker and stronger than stock.

The trails were very poorly marked so we got into some blue and black trails and then had to get out onto an ATV trail to find our way out. So I don't know exactly which trail we were on.

LOL, yeah sections of it does leave you guessing. I was with a group of 5 Jeeps, mine was the only Rubicon and the most modded. We originally were only doing the UTV trails that they open up for the Creepy Crawl but we ended up over on the BOH trail also. We had a blast! I look forward to trying other BOH trails.

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[3TV]

Which aftermarket FAD skid did you go with? Pics? Which trail at Jericho did you do? When we went I didn't think it was that bad. It was a little slippery because it was in Oct during the Creepy Crawl. But I only got one scrape on one of my aftermarket rock rails. And I think that was because I wasn't paying attention and missed that rock.

I know you didn't ask me this question ...

But, I just thought I would offer up another FAD skid plate that works well. This one by Artec is worth considering. Scroll down on this page. It cost $10 more than the one linked to above.

JL Belly Pan (artecindustries.com)

 

[Whaler27]

Strider,
…I compare the approach of Rubicon vs. Sport drivers to that of power vs. sail boats. 'Go' boat drivers (like Rubicon's) just point and shoot (hit the throttle). They use shear torque, more power, to navigate through most any obsticle. On the other hand 'Blow' boat sailors have to take into account so many other factors. Wind direction, sail selection, trim, water currents and tacking vectors. Sport drivers, like sailors must account for many more details. Starting angle, line selection, momentum, wheel slip of each wheel on both axles. And above everything else, the least amount of torque required (rarely ever maximum power).

So yes, skill is always important for any Jeeper but Rubi's can typically just muscle their way forward though most everything. Sports generally can't ever do the same and expect similar results. But with patience and skill, Sports can certainly go almost anywhere that a Rubicon can. I'll admit that a very skilled Rubi driver can drive circles around almost every Sport. Contrarily, I also conjecture that a very skilled Sport pilot can fly circles around many (if not most) Rubicon's…

Jay

Ugh…

Now I’m all confused and conflicted. I need more sweeping generalizations like this to figure out who I really am and how my friends and I drive.

I’ve been driving Jeeps since I bought my first new CJ7 in 1977. Until last summer when I sold my heavily modified 2006 TJ “sport”, I was driving both a sport and a 2019 Rubicon, and I thought I was using the same driving approaches and techniques in both Jeeps… and I thought the same was true of the guys I wheel with.

It seems like the most capable Jeeps in my group both started out as “sports” — because the guys bought them for ultra-builds that would involve replacing almost everything under their Jeeps, including the axels. These are the kind of builds I can‘t afford... Now these guys are gonna be shocked to hear how they‘re supposed to drive as “sport” owners, as compared with when they were Rubicon and CJ drivers five and ten years ago. Golly.

Before I read this I would have said that all kinds of drivers, with all kinds of skills and behaviors, come in all kinds of vehicle-wrappers.

A stock Rubicon is a more capable vehicle than a stock sport. That irrefutable fact doesn’t diminish the other trim levels, nor does it tell you anything at all about the capability, experience, inclinations, skills, or habits of the drivers of any trim level.

Sheesh.

 

[jeepoch]

Ugh…

Now I’m all confused and conflicted. I need more sweeping generalizations like this to figure out who I really am and how my friends and I drive.

I’ve been driving Jeeps since I bought my first new CJ7 in 1977. Until last summer when I sold my heavily modified 2006 TJ “sport”, I was driving both a sport and a 2019 Rubicon, and I thought I was using the same driving approaches and techniques in both Jeeps… and I thought the same was true of the guys I wheel with.

It seems like the most capable Jeeps in my group both started out as “sports” — because the guys bought them for ultra-builds that would involve replacing almost everything under their Jeeps, including the axels. These are the kind of builds I can‘t afford... Now these guys are gonna be shocked to hear how they‘re supposed to drive as “sport” owners, as compared with when they were Rubicon and CJ drivers five and ten years ago. Golly.

Before I read this I would have said that all kinds of drivers, with all kinds of skills and behaviors, come in all kinds of vehicle-wrappers.

A stock Rubicon is a more capable vehicle than a stock sport. That irrefutable fact doesn’t diminish the other trim levels, nor does it tell you anything at all about the capability, experience, inclinations, skills, or habits of the drivers of any trim level.

Sheesh.

Alex,

I certainly respect your viewpoint. There are likely a boatload (pun intended) of Jeepers that drive a certain way no matter what trim level they are piloting. Can't deny that. However, you know as well as almost all Jeep enthusiasts that lockers are one of the most desired pieces of equipment for just about any real serious 4 wheel situation. At least one single non-slipping wheel on any axle will provide motive power. This is what makes Rubicons so much more desirable for off-road applications.

Open differentials on the other hand don't enjoy the same physics. Without lockers, any spinning wheel on that axle renders that entire axle useless. With open diffs power is routed (by design) to the wheel with the least resistance. In other words the one with the least amount of traction. This in the bigger picture provides the way cool ability to turn the axle without binding or generating tire hop. That's why you can't run lockers on hard, dry pavement. It would grind, shave off and make mincemeat out of your diff gears pretty quickly.

Try running your lockers on pavement and make a tight turn. You won't be doing that very often.

So the Jeepers who don't have lockers must be way more cognizant of TRACTION. If any wheel on both axles (at the same time) slip then all motive effort is lost. This means that BOTH wheels on at least one axle must have traction in order to maintain momentum. This is Jeep physics 101. No way around it. Clearly if you don't take this limitation into account and (like the Rubicon jocks) just hit the throttle, you'll very quickly lose inertia and come to an unwanted stop (with all four wheels still slipping just spinning faster).

So for the Sports pilots, if you don't lay off the accelerator and use the least amount of torque to maintain traction, then you are going to run into trouble pretty quickly. [That's not a threat, that's a promise.] A heavy foot always raises the probability for even more wheel slip. Sports must therefore always use just the minimum power to maintain traction (period).

Rubicon jockeys with the lockers generally find that applying more (not less) power gets them out of trouble in most circumstances. Typically at least one wheel finds traction and vehicle momentum can be maintained. Still this creates more stress and a higher potential to break things.

In summary, if your driving all Jeep trims in the exact same way, you are asking for trouble. Driving a Sport with too much throttle, will generally be problematic. While driving a Rubi gives you the possibility of applying more power it's not always the best technique. Regardless, most people certainly would enjoy the Rubicon experience just because it's fun to apply more (not less) power to get out of sticky situations. It requires a lot more situational awareness, concentration and discipline to lay off the throttle. Sports drivers excel with the difficult skill of having a 'feather' foot.

Lastly, one MAJOR advantage that JL's have over their predecessors is that they all employ something called Brake Lock Differential (BLD). This is enabled even on Rubicon's when it's lockers are not engaged. This is a software implemented feature that detects wheel slip on any wheel. When one wheel on any particular axle is spinning faster than it's opposite side, the brake on the faster spinning (slipping) wheel is automatically applied. Thus keeping some amount of power available on the opposite wheel. With lockers engaged, both wheels spin at the exact same rate so the BLD doesn't apply.

So I suppose the argument can be made that the JL can tolerate someone who drives the Sport much more like a Rubicon. But, it's always a good idea to use the least amount of torque to maintain traction independent of trim type.

So if you are going to drive every Jeep trim level the same, it's safest and most optimal to always drive it like a Sport.

[Edit]
In addition to the diffs there is also the matter of sway bar disconnects. Good luck with articulation on a stock sport.

Since this thread is more about lifting your rig, I'm also assuming that the entire suspension in general is being examined as a whole with the overall goal is achieving a much better off-road experience.

For me and my Sport, the Mopar lift, wheels, 35's and a sway bar disconnect were by far my best mods. My Jeep is a thing of joy both on and especially off-road. I may not have a Rubi, but I certainly know I can go anywhere they do. Although admittedly they can play in the insane rock crap all they want. Regardless, if you do get a lift (no matter the type), don't skimp on the rubber. TRACTION will always be your friend no matter the trim. Everything else is just a bonus.

Jay

 

[Dyolfknip74]

It is.
Sounds like Akelly740 got a bad installer.
You don't need adjustable LCAs because the kit comes with longer ones to maintain the factory caster angle.
You also don't need an adjustable track bar as Mopar sells the correct one. It does require you to purchase it separately though.
The instructions are very specific about how, and where, the springs are installed. If done carelessly or incorrectly the result is bowing springs. Simple fix really. Make sure the right springs are in the right places, and make sure they are all oriented in the right direction.
As for cost, I paid $1,800.00 CDN for mine, taxes in and installed. Pretty good bargain if you ask me.
A comparable kit at a local offroad shop, vis-a-vis quality, would be like Teraflex and the like. If you're trying to compare it to Rough Country or Rugged Ridge, you're not even playing in the same ball park.
AND ... icing on the cake ... you get the really cool Mopar wooden crate the kit comes in ... LOL

$1800 CDN? When was that? I just got a quote for $2800 CDN installed with alignment. And that's with a pretty good price on the lift.
Also. Do you have part number for the Mopar trackbar? When I asked, they pointed me towards Rubicon Express or Rancho track bars.

 

[Gadgettr1]

I know you didn't ask me this question ...

But, I just thought I would offer up another FAD skid plate that works well. This one by Artec is worth considering. Scroll down on this page. It cost $10 more than the one linked to above.

JL Belly Pan (artecindustries.com)

I actually saw that last night when I did a search. That is the one I’m going to order since I have the Artec belly skids and there quality was excellent. Do you have this FAD? I will say that the NextVenture Motorsports diff covers and skids are bombproof! But my front Yeti trackbar does contact the diff cover by a hair.

 

[Gadgettr1]

$1800 CDN? When was that? I just got a quote for $2800 CDN installed with alignment. And that's with a pretty good price on the lift.
Also. Do you have part number for the Mopar trackbar? When I asked, they pointed me towards Rubicon Express or Rancho track bars.

FYI. On the trackbar subject I’m very happy with the Yeti’s, they fit great and are very beefy. I tried another brand first and it was going to require grinding off metal from the mount to fit (not something I wanted to do in a brand new Jeep). It was not either of the brands you suggested (I have no experience with either of those).

 

[Dyolfknip74]

FYI. On the trackbar subject I’m very happy with the Yeti’s, they fit great and are very beefy. I tried another brand first and it was going to require grinding off metal from the mount to fit (not something I wanted to do in a brand new Jeep). It was not either of the brands you suggested (I have no experience with either of those).

TBH, for a track bar, I don't think too many aren't going to fit the bill if they're adjustable. Other than shitty joint bushings I guess. I went with Rancho front and rear. I'm good with them.

 

[DanW]

TBH, for a track bar, I don't think too many aren't going to fit the bill if they're adjustable. Other than shitty joint bushings I guess. I went with Rancho front and rear. I'm good with them.

I went with Rancho in the front and Rough Country in the rear. I know the Rancho has top notch bushings. The Rough Country's bushings also seem at least OEM quality, but time will tell. Both are built far stronger than they need to be, so there should never be an issue with them.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

I went with Rancho in the front and Rough Country in the rear. I know the Rancho has top notch bushings. The Rough Country's bushings also seem at least OEM quality, but time will tell. Both are built far stronger than they need to be, so there should never be an issue with them.

Ya, of course I'm doing research AFTER I purchased. Lol. I'm happy with my decision on the Rancho bars though.

Here in Canada we are really limited with choices. It is so expensive to ship from the US and whatnot. Time will tell, hopefully lift comes in next week and I get to find out.

 

[DanW]

Ya, of course I'm doing research AFTER I purchased. Lol. I'm happy with my decision on the Rancho bars though.

Here in Canada we are really limited with choices. It is so expensive to ship from the US and whatnot. Time will tell, hopefully lift comes in next week and I get to find out.

Lol, I do that all the time! No stress. I honestly think the Rancho is the best bang for the buck on the market. I really do think they've got the best bushings or at least as good as anyone else. I would have done another on the rear but I wanted to be able to adjust it while on the Jeep. The Rancho is a bear to adjust, but once right, that sucker is good to go. The RC for the rear was less expensive, too, IIRC.

I've got a bunch of Rancho skids on my diffs, oil pan (JK), etc, and they are all top quality with excellent fit. The diff skids on both the JK and JL took a massive beating on our last trip and shrugged off every hit.

So if I had limited choices, but they included Rancho, I'd be just fine.

Keep us updated on the lift! Looks like you have a great build in progress!

 

[Dyolfknip74]

Lol, I do that all the time! No stress. I honestly think the Rancho is the best bang for the buck on the market. I really do think they've got the best bushings or at least as good as anyone else. I would have done another on the rear but I wanted to be able to adjust it while on the Jeep. The Rancho is a bear to adjust, but once right, that sucker is good to go. The RC for the rear was less expensive, too, IIRC.

I've got a bunch of Rancho skids on my diffs, oil pan (JK), etc, and they are all top quality with excellent fit. The diff skids on both the JK and JL took a massive beating on our last trip and shrugged off every hit.

So if I had limited choices, but they included Rancho, I'd be just fine.

Keep us updated on the lift! Looks like you have a great build in progress!

I shouldn't be messing with adjusting it, so I'm good there. The cost is really good. Basically $500 CDN for both. So like $58 US
It's slowly coming along. Also have a Fox ATS steering stabilizer on backorder. I think it should come in just as I am selling the JL in 2030 or so. Lol.

 

[DanW]

I shouldn't be messing with adjusting it, so I'm good there. The cost is really good. Basically $500 CDN for both. So like $58 US
It's slowly coming along. Also have a Fox ATS steering stabilizer on backorder. I think it should come in just as I am selling the JL in 2030 or so. Lol.

My Fox ATS is supposed to arrive today but Fed Ex keeps screwing it up. It was supposed to come yesterday, but then delay, now it says its on the truck but then another notice that it is delayed until Monday. I'm betting they lost it.

Sounds like we'll be running very similar setups!

 

[Dyolfknip74]

My Fox ATS is supposed to arrive today but Fed Ex keeps screwing it up. It was supposed to come yesterday, but then delay, now it says its on the truck but then another notice that it is delayed until Monday. I'm betting they lost it.

Sounds like we'll be running very similar setups!

How long did it take? I also have the Clayton relocate kit coming with it. Too expensive to hang like an 80 year olds cash and prizes from the front.

 

[Gadgettr1]

Even with the Mopar lift the undercarriage of my JLR on 37's looks similar to a dozer's. Scrapped and gouged but well protected. Only the FAD skid remains stock and is not marked. The rockers, full bellypan, LCA, diff. and exhaust loop skid have all taken solid hits. Moving the S.S. up and behind and rolling the SB disconnect motor up has worked so far.

How are the 37's? Do they rub when flexed? I'm probably going with 4.88's (soon as the dealer gets the ok on my extended warranty covering them). If so, once these 315's are done I'm debating on going up in size.

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