Sponsored

Help with electrical gremlins after sound system install

OP
OP

Redrelyt12

Well-Known Member
First Name
Tyler
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Threads
19
Messages
63
Reaction score
24
Location
CT
Vehicle(s)
1954 Willys M38A1, 2020 Tesla 3, 2021 JLUR
Get RCA to 3.5mm wire. Plug the RCAs into the amp, and the 3.5 into your phone. Play audio and check for noise. This will help pinpoint the problem as either after the amp, or between the amp and head unit.
I swear I have that cable somewhere in my house, but I couldn't spend too long looking. I did, however, disconnect the RCA inputs to the DSR1 individually and the clicking went away with left front disconnected.

I'll have to see what happens when I plug in another source
Sponsored

 

Mike - Stinger Off-Road

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Oct 5, 2020
Threads
0
Messages
56
Reaction score
75
Location
Clearwater, FL
Website
stingeroffroad.com
Vehicle(s)
2006 LJ Rubicon, 2020 JLU Rubicon
Occupation
Automotive Electronics
Sounds like a grounding issue for sure. The sound is likely from the relay for theat clicking over. If you are running 0g wire for the amps, my first question is did you also upgrade the OEM battery ground to 0g? (I may have missed that). If it's the OEM wire it's probably no bigger than 6g and likely has a insufficient ground even though you're at the battery.

I hope that helps!
 

Herc10HueyFE

Member
First Name
John
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Threads
0
Messages
10
Reaction score
5
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
2021 Jeep Gladiator Mojave
I'd like to install an amp to boost the upgraded speakers I just installed in my JL. Could someone provide me with a schematic of how everything needs to be setup? I understand how to wire the amp itself and that I need to run RCA cables from the heigh10 to the amp, but I'm not sure how/where to splice into the factory speaker harness to connect the speakers. Also, are you guys using a 2 or 4 channel amp or changing the way the factory speakers are wired together? I'm not looking to go crazy with the sound, just a boost in volume. I did use the JL integration kit as well. Thanks in advance.
 
OP
OP

Redrelyt12

Well-Known Member
First Name
Tyler
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Threads
19
Messages
63
Reaction score
24
Location
CT
Vehicle(s)
1954 Willys M38A1, 2020 Tesla 3, 2021 JLUR
I'd like to install an amp to boost the upgraded speakers I just installed in my JL. Could someone provide me with a schematic of how everything needs to be setup? I understand how to wire the amp itself and that I need to run RCA cables from the heigh10 to the amp, but I'm not sure how/where to splice into the factory speaker harness to connect the speakers. Also, are you guys using a 2 or 4 channel amp or changing the way the factory speakers are wired together? I'm not looking to go crazy with the sound, just a boost in volume. I did use the JL integration kit as well. Thanks in advance.
This is an unrelated thread, but your best bet is to run new wire directly from your aftermarket amp to the new speakers.

The factory speaker wiring is very small and you're going to likely be running a lot more power than they are designed to handle.
 

Herc10HueyFE

Member
First Name
John
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Threads
0
Messages
10
Reaction score
5
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
2021 Jeep Gladiator Mojave
This is an unrelated thread, but your best bet is to run new wire directly from your aftermarket amp to the new speakers.

The factory speaker wiring is very small and you're going to likely be running a lot more power than they are designed to handle.
I appreciate the reply. Wasn't sure where to ask the question and I saw that someone here had actually did the install. All new wiring it is.
 

Sponsored

beaups

Well-Known Member
First Name
Sean
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
743
Reaction score
1,230
Location
Ohio
Vehicle(s)
2020 JL
I appreciate the reply. Wasn't sure where to ask the question and I saw that someone here had actually did the install. All new wiring it is.
Wrangler (at least the base audio system) uses 18awg wire which is plenty for the run lengths we have. At 10ft you are looking at around a <.10 ohm load with the factory wires. Waste of time and money to replace unless you are going to crazy power and/or 2 ohm setup etc.
 

Herc10HueyFE

Member
First Name
John
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Threads
0
Messages
10
Reaction score
5
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
2021 Jeep Gladiator Mojave
Wrangler (at least the base audio system) uses 18awg wire which is plenty for the run lengths we have. At 10ft you are looking at around a <.10 ohm load with the factory wires. Waste of time and money to replace unless you are going to crazy power and/or 2 ohm setup etc.
Nope, no crazy power. 4 ohm Hertz DCX speakers. 60 W I believe. So if new wiring isn't needed, how/where would I tap into the factory setup with the heigh10?
 

beaups

Well-Known Member
First Name
Sean
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
743
Reaction score
1,230
Location
Ohio
Vehicle(s)
2020 JL
Nope, no crazy power. 4 ohm Hertz DCX speakers. 60 W I believe. So if new wiring isn't needed, how/where would I tap into the factory setup with the heigh10?
Ah I did a Heigh10 install as well with an aftermarket amp but everything was already in place from using the amp w/factory HU. You'd use RCA outputs from the Height10 to feed the amp but IIRC I had to cut/splice the speaker wires @ the factory harness as the clearances were too tight for the T-Harness I had.

If you are doing a Heigh10 install I would probably go ahead and just run new speaker wires from the amp. Not because it's necessary, but it won't be much more difficult and you won't have modified the factory harness/wiring as there is ZERO room for another connector behind the stinger

BTW have fun stuffing all the wires and harnesses behind the stinger and getting it to sit flush :)
 

Herc10HueyFE

Member
First Name
John
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Threads
0
Messages
10
Reaction score
5
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
2021 Jeep Gladiator Mojave
Ah I did a Heigh10 install as well with an aftermarket amp but everything was already in place from using the amp w/factory HU. You'd use RCA outputs from the Height10 to feed the amp but IIRC I had to cut/splice the speaker wires @ the factory harness as the clearances were too tight for the T-Harness I had.

If you are doing a Heigh10 install I would probably go ahead and just run new speaker wires from the amp. Not because it's necessary, but it won't be much more difficult and you won't have modified the factory harness/wiring as there is ZERO room for another connector behind the stinger

BTW have fun stuffing all the wires and harnesses behind the stinger and getting it to sit flush :)
Lol, yeah it was a nightmare. Definitely no room to add anything else. I already have the Heigh10 installed and a couple of under seat subs, just wanted to upgrade the speakers and get a little more out of it. If I went ahead and did all new wiring, would I disconnect anything from the heigh10 as far as factory harness or just leave it? Also, I know the speakers in the sound bar are all wired together as well as the front upper and Lowe dash are together. Do you happen to know if they are wired in series or parallel? I know enough about stereos to get me in trouble but any help is greatly appreciated.
 

matthewgary

New Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2021
Threads
0
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Jonesboro, AR
Vehicle(s)
2021 4xe Rubicon
I swear I have that cable somewhere in my house, but I couldn't spend too long looking. I did, however, disconnect the RCA inputs to the DSR1 individually and the clicking went away with left front disconnected.

I'll have to see what happens when I plug in another source
Did you ever figure out the cause/solution to the clicking noise when the heated seats/steering wheel are on? I have a PAC AMPPRO in my setup and have the same noise.
 

Sponsored

OP
OP

Redrelyt12

Well-Known Member
First Name
Tyler
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Threads
19
Messages
63
Reaction score
24
Location
CT
Vehicle(s)
1954 Willys M38A1, 2020 Tesla 3, 2021 JLUR
Did you ever figure out the cause/solution to the clicking noise when the heated seats/steering wheel are on? I have a PAC AMPPRO in my setup and have the same noise.
I actually sold the Jeep for a 4XE and haven't gotten around to the sound system install yet. One thing I was going to try next was to run the ground to the battery as opposed to the body ground. I don't know if that would solve the issue, but it couldn't hurt
 

1BadDad

Well-Known Member
First Name
Zach
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Threads
6
Messages
300
Reaction score
437
Location
Tulsa, OK
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLURD
Build Thread
Link
Occupation
IT Innovator
Did you ever figure out the cause/solution to the clicking noise when the heated seats/steering wheel are on? I have a PAC AMPPRO in my setup and have the same noise.
Matthew, did you ever figure out the clicking sound? It’s driving me bonkers. I almost think it’s a crappy MB Quart amp. My JBL amp for my soundbar doesn’t make any interference noise at all and it’s MUCH more power than the front channels
 

matthewgary

New Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2021
Threads
0
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Jonesboro, AR
Vehicle(s)
2021 4xe Rubicon
Matthew, did you ever figure out the clicking sound? It’s driving me bonkers. I almost think it’s a crappy MB Quart amp. My JBL amp for my soundbar doesn’t make any interference noise at all and it’s MUCH more power than the front channels
Unfortunately, no. I tried to limit use of the heated seats and heated steering wheel during the winter because it drove me crazy as well. When spring came around, I had a bad experience with the infamous death wobble and traded it in on a Bronco. Interestingly enough, I had an MB Quart amp in my setup as well.
 

John Benoit

Banned
Banned
Banned
First Name
John
Joined
Jun 26, 2023
Threads
4
Messages
427
Reaction score
594
Location
Loveland, Ohio
Vehicle(s)
2023 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
Looking for some help diagnosing a problem. I recently installed a full sound system and have a few issues.
  • Alternator whine - buzzing sound that gets louder with engine RPMs
    • I initially had the ground wires running to a distribution block with a 0 gauge ground, but the change below didn't fix the issue
  • Clicking noise when running heated steering wheel / heated seats
    • Any idea where these wires run to/from?

System Build:
  • Stinger Heigh10
  • Rockford Fosgate DSR1
  • JL Audio M400.4 under driver seat
    • Running JL Audio C3-650 mid-woofers (Dash)
  • JL Audio M400.4 under passenger seat
    • Running JL Audio C3-650 tweeters (Active in Dash)
    • Running JL Audio C2-650X Coax (Roll bar)
  • Pioneer Electronics GM-ME500X1 under rear seat
    • Running JL Audio 10TW3-D4 (x2)
General Information:
  • 0 gauge wire running from battery along passenger side of vehicle to fused distribution block under rear seat
  • Distribution block sends 4 gauge wire to all 3 amps
    • Wiring for amps under driver/passenger seats are under center console
  • All 3 amps are grounded on factory grounds using 4 gauge wire (short runs)
  • RCAs run from head unit to DSR1 via driver side
Believe it or not, your radio is connected to your engine ECM as well as the other control modules. This is so when Jeep connects with your vehicle, they can communicate with the control module s and check how things are going. When you change the radio and other components it causes interference and you get all kinds of electrical problems. I changed my radio in my old Jeep and then kept getting an engine code that said ECM cannot connect with radio. No bs or conspiracies.
 

1BadDad

Well-Known Member
First Name
Zach
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Threads
6
Messages
300
Reaction score
437
Location
Tulsa, OK
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLURD
Build Thread
Link
Occupation
IT Innovator
Yes I agree, it does connect to all sorts of things. However there’s something with the heated steering wheel specifically. It’s obnoxious. It’s only in my front two channels. I maya try to find a better 2/4 channel amp for the front soundstage that can mitigate some of these issues. I’m so tired of it.
Sponsored

 
 



Top