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Will adjustable rear LCAs and trackbar make that much difference?

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Tire pressure is 28-30. Factory tie rod and drag link.
Ok, that's the typical range to reduce the wander from too much pressure. Upping your caster from 5.8-6.5° should get you a bit further away from the wander.

Once you can get geometry squared away with specific parts, you might consider working your way through steering linkages and than the rest of the control arms. All of those oem components are constructed of thin-walled tubing, which is prone to flexing just enough to induce a "mushy" feel to the ride and handling. Mushiness equals broader steering corrections and less resistant to wind and road influences. I'm not trying to pull you down the rabbits hole just for the company. I'm just a firm believer in maximizing drive ability and longevity with a complete set of supportive parts. I'm currently sitting just over 4" higher than stock and on 38's, and in all seriousness, my Jeep drives and handles better than bone stock.
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Fixing stupid....
If you are not doing all of the arms, then i would suggest front lower, and rear upper.

when you lift, the stock control arms are basically decreasing your wheelbase.

the front lower will allow you to get back some of that while also adjusting your camber to where you want it (6 ish)

i prefer the rear uppers to the rear lowers as the first set back there because it will give you back a little wheelbase while moving the pinion angle of the rear diff closer to stock. If you did the lowers back there you would have to shorten the wheelbase to get the angle back.

now, we are not talking much in terms of wheelbase, but as a guy I believe every millimeter counts:)
 

NewJLU2019

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Can you post pic of your rig from the side ?
Excuse question. What are you looking for with the side view you are asking? I just don't follow all the wandering issues I read. I run 75 mph down Toll Road here and never have to steer unless I need to follow the road. I don't feel any pull from Jeep wanting to wander off track.

I guess I am just not following all these added TB etc issues.

Half-doors off.jpg
 

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Excuse question. What are you looking for with the side view you are asking? I just don't follow all the wandering issues I read. I run 75 mph down Toll Road here and never have to steer unless I need to follow the road. I don't feel any pull from Jeep wanting to wander off track.

I guess I am just not following all these added TB etc issues.

Half-doors off.jpg
He’s talking about getting rear upper control arms, and I wanted to see how far forward his rear wheel is whether or not I would suggest fooling with any rear control arms now or not. You see how your back wheel is favoring the front of the wheel well. Some are more extreme. Nothing to do with his wandering.

If you have both upper and lower adjustable rear control arms you can center your wheel, while also keeping rear springs from bowing , and keep your driveshaft/pinion angle happy......

Jeep Wrangler JL Will adjustable rear LCAs and trackbar make that much difference? ABD80FFC-7ADC-4046-9CD9-C062147781A0
 

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I have a 2021 JLUR with the Mopar 2” (ended up about 3.5”) lift and 37x13.50 Nitto Mud Grapplers. I added the rough country adjustable front trackbar and lower control arms already, however, I still need to get back to the alignment shop and have them push my front from 5.8 to 6.5 degrees.
Ihave an evo rear track bar relocation bracket I have not installed yet. My question is,,,,
Should I get the adjustable rear lower control arms and an adjustable rear track bar? I think I read someone on here saying the ride would be noticeably better.
I’m not real clear about adding the adjustable trackbar, along with the relocation bracket.
Any thoughts?


I have the Mopar lift. I found the front LCA's for steering and rear track bar relocation bracket where needed. That is all that is really needed to complete Mopars lift. For the price point Mopars lift works well on trails that are not extreme. I run 37's on my JLR and travel the Western U.S. wheeling popular trails as a hobby. I have no problem with 8 and under rated trails, even the Rubicon trail without issue. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/showcase/biscuit.1163/
FYI, Flexy suspension lifts require more replacement parts to get the big flex. They cost more and even recommend items they don't include. MC(nothing against them) as an example does not incudle expensive but recomended replacement drivelines or even mentioned fender mods required for wheel clearance.
Big flex is cool but if you don't need it, why?
BTW, did you measure your ride height before and after? I have read a Rubicon gets 2" plus an non Rubi's 3"s plus.
 

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He’s talking about getting rear upper control arms, and I wanted to see how far forward his rear wheel is whether or not I would suggest fooling with any rear control arms now or not. You see how your back wheel is favoring the front of the wheel well. Some are more extreme. Nothing to do with his wandering.

If you have both upper and lower adjustable rear control arms you can center your wheel, while also keeping rear springs from bowing , and keep your driveshaft/pinion angle happy......

Jeep Wrangler JL Will adjustable rear LCAs and trackbar make that much difference? ABD80FFC-7ADC-4046-9CD9-C062147781A0
So which CA's would be used and how do you adjust to get Wheel centered correctly?

Can a non-mechanical inclined Jeeper do this?
 

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So which CA's would be used and how do you adjust to get Wheel centered correctly?

Can a non-mechanical inclined Jeeper do this?
I’ll send you a PM, don’t want to blow up/ derail Kaseys thread, lol.
 

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So which CA's would be used and how do you adjust to get Wheel centered correctly?

Can a non-mechanical inclined Jeeper do this?
What lift kit are you installing? Big flex requires all the control arms replaced. You'll be fine without on a Mopar lift.
 

NewJLU2019

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What lift kit are you installing? Big flex requires all the control arms replaced. You'll be fine without on a Mopar lift.
I had the Dealership install the Mopar lift with my Wheels/tires when my Jeep order came in.

The rear wheel is not centered in Fender well. Texas is trail landlocked and I really haven't gotten out to run BOH trails yet. My future Bucket list plans are to do this after covid settles down.

I am finding out that the Mopar engineered lift really does not alter what is really needed underneath to center axles etc.
 
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Can you post pic of your rig from the side ?
Ok, that's the typical range to reduce the wander from too much pressure. Upping your caster from 5.8-6.5° should get you a bit further away from the wander.

Once you can get geometry squared away with specific parts, you might consider working your way through steering linkages and than the rest of the control arms. All of those oem components are constructed of thin-walled tubing, which is prone to flexing just enough to induce a "mushy" feel to the ride and handling. Mushiness equals broader steering corrections and less resistant to wind and road influences. I'm not trying to pull you down the rabbits hole just for the company. I'm just a firm believer in maximizing drive ability and longevity with a complete set of supportive parts. I'm currently sitting just over 4" higher than stock and on 38's, and in all seriousness, my Jeep drives and handles better than bone stock.
I’m going to order the rear trackbar and possibly a set of control arms before getting it aligned again. That way everything is on when they have it on their machine.

6CFD1AA0-A8B6-4C5C-BC50-368B9BF1CFAE.png
 

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kapk22

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If you are not doing all of the arms, then i would suggest front lower, and rear upper.

when you lift, the stock control arms are basically decreasing your wheelbase.

the front lower will allow you to get back some of that while also adjusting your camber to where you want it (6 ish)

i prefer the rear uppers to the rear lowers as the first set back there because it will give you back a little wheelbase while moving the pinion angle of the rear diff closer to stock. If you did the lowers back there you would have to shorten the wheelbase to get the angle back.

now, we are not talking much in terms of wheelbase, but as a guy I believe every millimeter counts:)
So, I guess rear uppers is the way to go. This will add strength/stability, pinion angle, and wheelbase.
 

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I’m going to order the rear trackbar and possibly a set of control arms before getting it aligned again. That way everything is on when they have it on their machine.

Jeep Wrangler JL Will adjustable rear LCAs and trackbar make that much difference? 6CFD1AA0-A8B6-4C5C-BC50-368B9BF1CFAE
Yeah, that way you can make the most out of that alignment visit.

Great looking Jeep you've got there!
 

NewJLU2019

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I’m going to order the rear trackbar and possibly a set of control arms before getting it aligned again. That way everything is on when they have it on their machine.

Jeep Wrangler JL Will adjustable rear LCAs and trackbar make that much difference? 6CFD1AA0-A8B6-4C5C-BC50-368B9BF1CFAE
What size Wheels?
 

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So, I guess rear uppers is the way to go. This will add strength/stability, pinion angle, and wheelbase.
IMO , I wouldn’t do anything to rear axles without having both uppers and lowers. If use uppers to rotate axle, this will cause springs to bow, and won’t be as effective. It’s not like the front where pinion angle is not as important due to the FAD. The rear pinion angle is more important, so it’s best to move, and rotate at the same time. Just some .02.
 
 



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