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Fsttanks

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ESS works for EPA test condition only, we all know that for fact.
And your test mule is a 2dr which is 500 lbs lighter then the 4 door so the results would be even worse had you done your testing on the 4 door JLU.

ESS is a worthless nanny state requirement.
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zrickety

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Fellow Jeep enthusiasts, over the first two years of owning my Jeep I have recorded every tank of gas put into it. The data I have recorded includes number of gallons pumped, miles driven per trip odometer "A", average fuel economy per trip odometer "A", date, and observed fuel economy per total miles actually driven divided by actual gallons put into the jeep (in other words, real hand-calculated MPG). Armed with this data I present the following for the betterment of the community.

First, the BLUF: Over 122 tanks of gas (really, 110 as I will explain below) I averaged 17.8 mpg on the first half while disabling ESS and 18.0 mpg on the second half while leaving ESS enabled as per the jeep's default. According to my math -which could be complete garbage- I saved about 10 gallons of fuel on the second half of this experiment. On average the computer was 0.4 mpg too optimistic compared to the observed, hand-calculated MPG. Now, on to some of the details.

Subject matter
2019 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
  • Manual Transmission
  • Steel Bumper Group
  • LED Headlights
  • Painted fender flares
  • No other factory options and no aftermarket mods - the jeep remained completely stock through the entire test period
theJL.jpg


Methodology
The testing period began on 22 April 2019 when I took delivery of the jeep and ended on 14 May 2021 when I put the 122nd tank of gas in it, just over two years later. I implemented a number of control measures to decrease variables in the conduct of data collection:
  • Every tank was filled with Regular Unleaded 87 octane fuel
  • My commute typically included 46 miles of interstate highway driving and 14 miles of country roads / city street / mixed roads
  • Pure highway tanks greatly exceeded the 17.9 mpg average, but I don't take many road trips. Even though my daily commute had a good amount of highway miles there was still a lot of short range, slow driving mixed in
  • I filled every tank up until the first "click" then attempted to top it off exactly one time. This extra top-off had to have real fuel flow, not just the backpressure-restricted weak flow immediately following the first "click"
  • The last few drops of fuel would be shaken out of the fuel filler nozzle
  • Each receipt was collected from the pump and the following written on each receipt:
    • Tank X (X = 1, 2, 3, 4, or whatever number tank it was)
    • Y miles (Y = miles driven on that tank from trip odometer "A")
    • Z mpg (c) (Z = mpg as reported by trip odometer "A")(The "c" in parenthesis means computer)
  • If, for some reason, I was unable to collect a receipt from the pump or the attendant inside (i.e. if I was too lazy to go inside) I would write all the above data on the previous tank's receipt plus date, gas station location, gallons of fuel pumped, and USD spent on fuel
  • Trip odometer "A" was reset before turning the Jeep on to ensure that all fuel burned post-filling counted against the next tank
  • All data was entered into an excel spreadsheet which used an equation to calculate MPG (observed) and the delta between MPG (c) and MPG (o)
  • Every effort was made to avoid "short" tanks. I would usually fill up when the indicator said 25-40 miles of range remaining but didn't worry too much about it
  • The entire testing period took place in Texas. The length of the test ensured that data was collected for both ESS and non-ESS in all weather and driving conditions
  • On tanks 1-61, ESS was disabled religiously. Part of my turning-on-the-jeep ritual was hitting the ESS button. Breaking this habit proved very difficult for the first few tanks of the 62-122 set of tanks
  • On tanks 62-122, I did my best to allow ESS to work as intended to gain the most benefit from it
  • Of the 122 tanks collected, I discarded the top 3 and bottom 3 observed MPG tanks for both ESS and non-ESS categories, resulting in 110 total tanks analyzed
Below is a sample of the data from my excel spreadsheet:
jeepmpg.JPG


Conclusions
  • Over the course of 30,435.5 miles, the difference between 17.8 mpg and 18.0 mpg is 18.99 gallons, or $54.12 with the current gas prices near me. Not worth it. Going forward I'll go back to disabling ESS like I did on tanks 1 through 61
  • ESS really isn't that annoying. The worst part about it is the climate control losing its effectiveness in the heat or cold. But again, not worth it to me, especially considering it may cause unnecessary wear on the starter
  • Don't trust the computer to tell you accurate mileage. Most of the time it was overly optimistic, and as stated in the BLUF, it was off by 0.4 mpg on average
  • 2-door Rubicon doesn't get good gas mileage
  • I reserve the right to edit the shit out of this post if I made egregious errors ;)
  • YMMV
0.4 mpg difference is ~5% error, which not bad IMO. You have confirmed my belief that ESS is more trouble than it's worth. Thanks for doing the science!
 

timn1984

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You did a great service to this forum, and what a lot of work this must have been. I commend you and your "spreadsheet" . You have made a great contribution to this forum. But I wish you had a 4 door Sahara V6..........
 

sf5211

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Great job and thanks Tanner.
I shut ESS every drive but not for starter wear or fuel savings. I’m no engineer but I don’t want to gamble long term effects on my engine as I plan to keep my Jeep. I often wonder if you’re sitting at a long traffic light, engine off, oil hot and as thin as water, dropped back down into your oil pan, if restarting and it having to be pumped up to the top of the engine 50 times a day is ok for engine life. I don’t trust the system. And if your engine fails sooner that’s great for Stellantis, you get to go buy another Jeep.
What will be an interesting survey in 12 years is how many people have to redo the heads of their engines pro ESS and con ESS.
 

Reinen

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SMH. Anyone who says ESS is bad for engine wear hasn't been paying attention for the past 15 years. It would be bad for wear if you had an early '00s vehicle or earlier. Not anymore.
  • Starters are better, stronger and designed for 10x more cycles over its lifetime with ESS. Better bearings, better brushes, better solenoid, and beefier cables.
  • Batteries are better. Again designed to handle the additional starts and keeping everything working while the motor is stopped.
  • Engine bearings are better and much slipperier in construction.
  • Synthetic engine oil is slicker, stickier and more durable. It is engineered to stay on moving parts longer than older conventional oil. This combined with better constructed bearings eliminates the "dry start" aspect of ESS.
  • Control systems are better. The vehicle knows when ESS can activate, when it can't and when the engine has been stopped for too long.
Bottom line is that operational stop/starts do not cause additional engine wear. Cold engine starts are still a thing, but ESS does not keep the engine off long enough for it to become a cold start. Everything is still lubricated, the engine is still warm, the battery and improved starter is ready to bring the motor back to action. The control system knows what it's doing.

The only caveat to ESS is that you cannot cheap out on your motor oil or let oil changes slide.
 

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DadJokes

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SMH. Anyone who says ESS is bad for engine wear hasn't been paying attention for the past 15 years. It would be bad for wear if you had an early '00s vehicle or earlier. Not anymore.
  • Starters are better, stronger and designed for 10x more cycles over its lifetime with ESS. Better bearings, better brushes, better solenoid, and beefier cables.
  • Batteries are better. Again designed to handle the additional starts and keeping everything working while the motor is stopped.
  • Engine bearings are better and much slipperier in construction.
  • Synthetic engine oil is slicker, stickier and more durable. It is engineered to stay on moving parts longer than older conventional oil. This combined with better constructed bearings eliminates the "dry start" aspect of ESS.
  • Control systems are better. The vehicle knows when ESS can activate, when it can't and when the engine has been stopped for too long.
Bottom line is that operational stop/starts do not cause additional engine wear. Cold engine starts are still a thing, but ESS does not keep the engine off long enough for it to become a cold start. Everything is still lubricated, the engine is still warm, the battery and improved starter is ready to bring the motor back to action. The control system knows what it's doing.

The only caveat to ESS is that you cannot cheap out on your motor oil or let oil changes slide.
I think you’re generally correct on most points.

Outside of coatings which I don’t believe are being used on typical engine bearings as a sacrificial layer only, bearing technology over the last “15” years has plateaued coming from a not too long ago engine builder. You’re still looking at aluminum and steel backing or a babbitt overlay, nickel, copper, steel backing or some variation engine bearing. Even with a coating, it’s only there as a sacrificial layer that is not counted when setting bearing clearance.

Batteries have improved but they still don’t keep up with the demand that is currently placed on them as evidenced by much more frequent battery replacement which has become the new normal.

Other than that, I think you’re spot on.
 
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Reinen

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I think you’re generally correct on most points.

Outside of coatings which I don’t believe are being used on typical engine bearings as a sacrificial layer only, bearing technology over the last “15” years has plateaued coming from a not too long ago engine builder. You’re still looking at aluminum and steel backing or a babbitt overlay, nickel, copper, steel backing or some variation engine bearing. Even with a coating, it’s only there as a sacrificial layer that is not counted when setting bearing clearance

Batteries have improved but still doesn’t keep up with the demand that is currently placed in them as evidenced by much more frequent battery replacement which has become the new normal.

Other than that, I think you’re spot on.
Thank you, sir. Frankly, my knowledge of bearings is the least of the bunch but my understanding is that they're better than they've ever been. I think we're in an odd time with batteries because while they're improved, they're still lead acid. There's much better battery tech out there but the EV market is glomming them all up. Not to mention that I definitely look sideways at the JL's puny Aux battery. That has a lot of room for improvement.
 

dos531

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SMH. Anyone who says ESS is bad for engine wear hasn't been paying attention for the past 15 years. It would be bad for wear if you had an early '00s vehicle or earlier. Not anymore.
  • Starters are better, stronger and designed for 10x more cycles over its lifetime with ESS. Better bearings, better brushes, better solenoid, and beefier cables.
  • Batteries are better. Again designed to handle the additional starts and keeping everything working while the motor is stopped.
  • Engine bearings are better and much slipperier in construction.
  • Synthetic engine oil is slicker, stickier and more durable. It is engineered to stay on moving parts longer than older conventional oil. This combined with better constructed bearings eliminates the "dry start" aspect of ESS.
  • Control systems are better. The vehicle knows when ESS can activate, when it can't and when the engine has been stopped for too long.
Bottom line is that operational stop/starts do not cause additional engine wear. Cold engine starts are still a thing, but ESS does not keep the engine off long enough for it to become a cold start. Everything is still lubricated, the engine is still warm, the battery and improved starter is ready to bring the motor back to action. The control system knows what it's doing.

The only caveat to ESS is that you cannot cheap out on your motor oil or let oil changes slide.
While you're right on some counts, you definitely cant say the negative effect of ESS is zero. Even if the starter lasts 10x as long as they used to (doubt it), its still going to fail earlier. I dont know about you, but my ess would activate at least 20 times on most drives if I left it on. Thats 20x more starts and wear on the starter. Even with good oil, zero oil pressure is still zero, and starts are where most of the internal wear is going to happen. For the extremely negligible fuel economy increase its still not worth it in my humble opinion.
 

Reinen

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While you're right on some counts, you definitely cant say the negative effect of ESS is zero. Even if the starter lasts 10x as long as they used to (doubt it), its still going to fail earlier. I dont know about you, but my ess would activate at least 20 times on most drives if I left it on. Thats 20x more starts and wear on the starter. Even with good oil, zero oil pressure is still zero, and starts are where most of the internal wear is going to happen. For the extremely negligible fuel economy increase its still not worth it in my humble opinion.
What's your big concern with oil pressure? It's an operational start, not a cold start. Everything is still well lubricated with oil. Lines haven't drained. Engine is warm. Starters don't fail like they used to. What's the problem?
 

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TJJL19

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Scientific evidence that ESS is useless,.02 per gallon?
My JLU hesitates every time I use it, which might cause me to get into an accident!
I'm waiting to win the lottery and get a 392, just because it doesn't have ESS!
Battery Bats will complain about the environment, all the millions of Jeeps adding up, but you need to sell that crap to China and India.
I couldn't believe all the EVO trolls, that complained about building the 392!
I just turned off my lights, so all you Battery Bats can charge your cars, grid will now be able to handle all of you now!
 
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sf5211

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What's your big concern with oil pressure? It's an operational start, not a cold start. Everything is still well lubricated with oil. Lines haven't drained. Engine is warm. Starters don't fail like they used to. What's the problem?
I respect your opinion but I can’t see how you’d say “lines haven’t drained” at a 45 second red light. You have a point with fully synthetic oil leaving everything smooth but I’m not convinced that’s enough.
Also, there was a member here in one of the ESS debate threads that was a friend of an engineer at Pentastar. He claims the engineer told him if you’re planning to keep your Jeep long term, press the button. Which is what I do every time.
 

DadJokes

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While you're right on some counts, you definitely cant say the negative effect of ESS is zero. Even if the starter lasts 10x as long as they used to (doubt it), its still going to fail earlier. I dont know about you, but my ess would activate at least 20 times on most drives if I left it on. Thats 20x more starts and wear on the starter. Even with good oil, zero oil pressure is still zero, and starts are where most of the internal wear is going to happen. For the extremely negligible fuel economy increase its still not worth it in my humble opinion.
With E Torque it’s a smarter, less wear, smoother restart avenue IF you can utilize the start/stop. I believe I read in the past year that unless the engine shuts down for at least 5 secs each instance, there’s no gain to start/stop for whatever that’s worth. Makes sense though.
 

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Fellow Jeep enthusiasts, over the first two years of owning my Jeep I have recorded every tank of gas put into it. The data I have recorded includes number of gallons pumped, miles driven per trip odometer "A", average fuel economy per trip odometer "A", date, and observed fuel economy per total miles actually driven divided by actual gallons put into the jeep (in other words, real hand-calculated MPG). Armed with this data I present the following for the betterment of the community.

First, the BLUF: Over 122 tanks of gas (really, 110 as I will explain below) I averaged 17.8 mpg on the first half while disabling ESS and 18.0 mpg on the second half while leaving ESS enabled as per the jeep's default. According to my math -which could be complete garbage- I saved about 10 gallons of fuel on the second half of this experiment. On average the computer was 0.4 mpg too optimistic compared to the observed, hand-calculated MPG. Now, on to some of the details.

Subject matter
2019 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
  • Manual Transmission
  • Steel Bumper Group
  • LED Headlights
  • Painted fender flares
  • No other factory options and no aftermarket mods - the jeep remained completely stock through the entire test period
theJL.jpg


Methodology
The testing period began on 22 April 2019 when I took delivery of the jeep and ended on 14 May 2021 when I put the 122nd tank of gas in it, just over two years later. I implemented a number of control measures to decrease variables in the conduct of data collection:
  • Every tank was filled with Regular Unleaded 87 octane fuel
  • My commute typically included 46 miles of interstate highway driving and 14 miles of country roads / city street / mixed roads
  • Pure highway tanks greatly exceeded the 17.9 mpg average, but I don't take many road trips. Even though my daily commute had a good amount of highway miles there was still a lot of short range, slow driving mixed in
  • I filled every tank up until the first "click" then attempted to top it off exactly one time. This extra top-off had to have real fuel flow, not just the backpressure-restricted weak flow immediately following the first "click"
  • The last few drops of fuel would be shaken out of the fuel filler nozzle
  • Each receipt was collected from the pump and the following written on each receipt:
    • Tank X (X = 1, 2, 3, 4, or whatever number tank it was)
    • Y miles (Y = miles driven on that tank from trip odometer "A")
    • Z mpg (c) (Z = mpg as reported by trip odometer "A")(The "c" in parenthesis means computer)
  • If, for some reason, I was unable to collect a receipt from the pump or the attendant inside (i.e. if I was too lazy to go inside) I would write all the above data on the previous tank's receipt plus date, gas station location, gallons of fuel pumped, and USD spent on fuel
  • Trip odometer "A" was reset before turning the Jeep on to ensure that all fuel burned post-filling counted against the next tank
  • All data was entered into an excel spreadsheet which used an equation to calculate MPG (observed) and the delta between MPG (c) and MPG (o)
  • Every effort was made to avoid "short" tanks. I would usually fill up when the indicator said 25-40 miles of range remaining but didn't worry too much about it
  • The entire testing period took place in Texas. The length of the test ensured that data was collected for both ESS and non-ESS in all weather and driving conditions
  • On tanks 1-61, ESS was disabled religiously. Part of my turning-on-the-jeep ritual was hitting the ESS button. Breaking this habit proved very difficult for the first few tanks of the 62-122 set of tanks
  • On tanks 62-122, I did my best to allow ESS to work as intended to gain the most benefit from it
  • Of the 122 tanks collected, I discarded the top 3 and bottom 3 observed MPG tanks for both ESS and non-ESS categories, resulting in 110 total tanks analyzed
Below is a sample of the data from my excel spreadsheet:
jeepmpg.JPG


Conclusions
  • Over the course of 30,435.5 miles, the difference between 17.8 mpg and 18.0 mpg is 18.99 gallons, or $54.12 with the current gas prices near me. Not worth it. Going forward I'll go back to disabling ESS like I did on tanks 1 through 61
  • ESS really isn't that annoying. The worst part about it is the climate control losing its effectiveness in the heat or cold. But again, not worth it to me, especially considering it may cause unnecessary wear on the starter
  • Don't trust the computer to tell you accurate mileage. Most of the time it was overly optimistic, and as stated in the BLUF, it was off by 0.4 mpg on average
  • 2-door Rubicon doesn't get good gas mileage
  • I reserve the right to edit the shit out of this post if I made egregious errors ;)
  • YMMV
What is your ratio of highway to city driving? If its something like 90% highway then you wouldn't get much benefit out of ESS to start with.

I've noticed I lose about two MPG when my ESS isn't working (my batteries are funky but nothing wrong with them according to the dealer tech 🤷‍♂️) vs when it is working.

2018 JLU Sahara, auto, 32" tires.
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