Can you explain a little more detail about the JL lights turning off after a few minutes and how this helps with the brake lights.
On my JK I had to isolate the brake light feed from the Jeep to the taillights/brake lights so they didn't override the RV light signal. I was looking to do the same thing on the JL and when I looked at the wiring diagram I discovered that there's 3 wires going into the brake switch, not 1 like on the JK and they are all tied into the computer. After a lot of searching I found out here and also at Etrailer that there is a timer on the electrical system for the JL. If you shut your JL off and don't open the driver's door, wait about 5 minutes and step on the brake pedal. The lights won't light up. I've tried this several times and it works every time so there's no need to isolate the JL's lights from the RV lights like the JK as there is no signal coming down the wire from the JL's system when the brake pedal is applied. I used the Curt Plug & Play wiring harness that goes in between the JL light female plug and the JL light male plug. The wiring harness then goes to the front end and is plugged into the RV trailer light socket. Because there is no signal (after about 5 minutes) coming from the JL there's nothing to worry about. There are a couple wiring harness kits that you have to cut and splice wires. I didn't want to do that, that's why I bought the Curt harness - (bought it from Amazon) https://www.curtmfg.com/part/58964 After I got everything connected I took the JL for a ride (tow?) and everything worked perfectly. It takes a few minutes to hook everything up behind the motorhome so it's enough for the timer to activate. Take a look at this thread, this is where I discovered about the lights timing out. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...plain-this-wiring-diagram-to-me-please.60091/
Was wondering if there is an installation video for the JL. I see there is the one for the JK. I have a 2018 Wrangle Unlimited Sahara.
Yes it should. I have Blue Ox clevis connectors at the end of my Readybrute tow bar arms.
I should have done a video when I installed it but didn’t think of it until after I installed everything.
Yes, that’s exactly what I did. I didn’t want to start cutting wires so I bought the Curt harness I listed. Unplug the rear lights and plug in the harness. Run the wires to the front for the RV hookup.
Thank you again so much. What about the stop relay switch? Is that what keeps the turn signal on when you apply the brake. I guess I better read over your post. I am not car electrical savvy.
It actually pulls the signal from the brake/turn lights on the RV. On my 2015 JK I had to add an additional electrical adapter so the signal lights would work. On the JL after a couple minutes the electrical system on the JL shuts down so there’s no interference.
In the first picture I see you have the brake cable go through the Rockjock. Did you drill a hole? It looks like you put some kind of space that is angled. Do you have any pictures where you installed the emergency breakaway switch?Best price I could find on it was Jegs auto parts: https://www.jegs.com/i/RockJock/804/CE-9033JLP/10002/-1
Unless you have something hanging off the front bumper for the diesel it shouldn't be a problem. Installation was very easy. Unbolt the bumper, trim some of the metal on the back side of the bumper (took be about a minute with an angle grinder), bolt the towplate to the bumper and reinstall the bumper. There's 4 additional bolts that ties the towplate to the frame horns right behind the bumper. Compare this photo to what Blue Ox or Roadmaster is offering and it will give you a better idea. I think with those brands you can trim the plastic skid plate and put it back up, I personally like the look of the Rockjock as it looks like something meant for off road. I just took the first photo for you, sorry for the quality but it will give you an idea how far the attachment points stick out. The Blue Ox clevis attachments at the end of the towbar fit the Rockjock with no problem. You can probably also use it for recovery points if you get stuck off road. If you're standing looking straight down on the bumper the end of the points are flush with the front of the bumper. The little silver loop you see in the first photo at the top of the towplate center is the brake cable for the Readybrute towbar.
Yes, I drilled a hole for the brake cable and a bigger one for the electrical plug. I got a long nylon spacer at Lowe’s that I cut in half at about a 50 degree angle. The spacer guides the brake cable through the tow plate parallel with the ground. I attached the breakaway bracket on the outside of the front left frame horn just behind the bumper.
I've been reading both yours and the Captains thread. Very informative. I was wondering why you decided to forgo using the blue ox tow bar and go with the brute tow bar system.
