What did you do TO your Jeep JL today?

CarbonSteel

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I back bored the holes where the studs will be welded to allow for good penetration. I just need to get more bolts to build a "jig" by bolting the two plates together to set the stud depth uniformly. In the top plate in the photo the second and third bolts on the top row are two of the the actual stainless studs to be welded.

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Mocked it up in a jig, just need to tweak the spacing all the way around and fire up the welder. Almost there!

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hoag4147

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Yep...... 1 Ton axles, coil overs, 4” long arm lift and 40” tires. That’s where most end up, you might as well just get it over with...........🤣 JK.
Congrats on your new rig, enjoy....✌
Haha. Jump in with both feet. Oh. Don’t forget the shortly antenna :giggle:
 

shlotch

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I also wish a modest lift for my Willys (seems wrong to say that in public 🤔 ).

A bit overwhelmed by the excessive options / opinions... would you care to share your exact spring and LCA info? I think that is exactly what I am looking for with that exact tire size, but I am mired in indecision because of the info overload. Thanks!
It was a bit of a semi-educated guess in regards to the springs. There were only about 800 spring options so had to kind of accept at some point that I may not choose perfectly.

I ended up ordering part #s:
68253590AA
68253591AA
68253660AD
68253661AD

for the springs. 2x 68322798AA for the LCAs.

The stock springs were 87/88 inthe rear and 58/59 in the front. I had kind of decided on the spring #s and then followed up by harassing another forum member who informed me that he used the same ones. So that gave me a small bit of comfort that I wasn't gonna screw things up entirely. Install wasn't bad - one of those things were it'd be really simple the second time around...

Upon installing, I'd say the factory rake was maintained and the passenger rear seemed about a 1/4" higher than the driver rear. I'll have to give it a measure now that they've been on there a while and see where things landed.
 

spurly

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I'm very picky when it comes to the auxillary wiring on my vehicles. All wires are wrapped in braided wire loom, ran through the frame where possible or hidden out of sight. I also solder all my connections and if I have to use something like a ring or spade terminal it gets soldered as well. I use all Delphi Weatherpack connectors at disconnects, so it makes it easy to service if I need to, swap lights, or move lights between switches.

I'm running 8 KC Hilites Cyclones for rock lights. The 6 pack kit came with a ground post and 6 circuit fused bus bar (I bought 2 extra lights and running 2 lights on 2 circuit singles on the rest.) I know I could have tied all the individual circuits together and just ran a single wire to the auxillary wiring, but I like using the ground post and fused bus bar better. This will make it easier to diagnose or repair if there's ever a problem. Since I'm using the bus bar, I needed a clean and safe way to mount it under the hood so it's not just bouncing around. After a cardboard mockup, I made this bracket. It's a perfect fit and doesn't interfere with anything, and keeps everything organized. I do need to repaint it because I accidentally touched up a the top with gloss black instead of the satin black I originally used.
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I'm also making another bracket to mount another bus bar to for all my ground wires. Currently I'm using a ground stud that the factory uses but I'm looking for something cleaner. I'll need to finish that this week before I go to Moab on Sunday.

I decided to repaint the bracket flat black and added rivnuts since it's a pain in the ass to handle M5 lock nuts during install.
20210517_061634.jpg
 

spurly

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I decided to repaint the bracket flat black and added rivnuts since it's a pain in the ass to handle M5 lock nuts during install.
20210517_061634.jpg
Finished up my bracket for the ground bus bar. This cleaned things up now I have a dedicated 10awg wire running from the bus bar to the battery. Everything is sized appropriately as well. With all my lights turned on (8 cyclones, 2 S2 Sports, and 2 Squadron Sports) I'm not even pulling 10 amps. 10awg is rated for 30 amps and the bus bar is rated at 100amps. If I ever upgrade to Baja Designs LP6 or the KC Pro 6 light bar then I'll revise it. But it works perfect for me, for now.

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Edit: I've had a few messages about making some brackets. IF there is enough interest, I could explore the option of making both brackets and putting together kits for sale.
 
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frank-o

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I run my 35" Nitto RG's @ 35 lbs. and I like them a lot. I worked my way down from 42 lbs that the dealer put in them to a point where I found them to be comfortable.
Thanks to all who responded. Went down to 38 and it drove excellent on the highway all weekend. Next dropping to 35!
 
 
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