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Another JL with swaying on highway speed with lift

hoag4147

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@parkhs0316

please confirm for all us. Are we talking about swaying or are we talking about wandering? Feedback/suggestions are coming at you from both scenarios.
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Hijacking this thread since it appears there's some suspension experts on here and "new threads" get ignored. Any suggestions on a lift to put 37s on a JLUR 4xe? I'd prefer to keep the factory 17s and probably go to Nitto Ridge Grapplers as long as I don't need spacers for the factory wheel offset. Mopar and Dynatrac do not have a lift out yet and the rear springs will be an issue with the battery weight under the rear seat. I seriously considered the Mopar Diesel set-up since I'm adding a steel bumper and winch, but I'd be changing the rear springs eventually and sure as hell don't want the Carolina Squat in the meantime.
 
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parkhs0316

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@parkhs0316

please confirm for all us. Are we talking about swaying or are we talking about wandering? Feedback/suggestions are coming at you from both scenarios.
First, It does wander on higher speed (55 mph plus) so I try to correct is with small adjustment to go straight, and as I try to make adjustment in steering, it gest bigger and bigger so I had to lower the speed to make it go straight, and as I speed up again, it repeats.

as I was playing with adjustment with steering stabilizer set up with firm to soft. I have noticed there is very little dead spot before it gets stiff with steering stabilizer if this makes sense. while it was factory or soft setting, I feel less or not, but with firm setting it def. is there because the feedback is not linear
 

STRUBI

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First, It does wander on higher speed (55 mph plus) so I try to correct is with small adjustment to go straight, and as I try to make adjustment in steering, it gest bigger and bigger so I had to lower the speed to make it go straight, and as I speed up again, it repeats.

as I was playing with adjustment with steering stabilizer set up with firm to soft. I have noticed there is very little dead spot before it gets stiff with steering stabilizer if this makes sense. while it was factory or soft setting, I feel less or not, but with firm setting it def. is there because the feedback is not linear
Just curious have you tried the stock stabilizer. I know it shouldn't make a difference. But I read reviews where people did not like their jeep drove with the falcon one..
 
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parkhs0316

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Yes, I had stock first, and it was the same. I was hoping to improve with falcon, and it did not.. not sure if it is worse, but it is not better for sure
 

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STRUBI

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Yes, I had stock first, and it was the same. I was hoping to improve with falcon, and it did not.. not sure if it is worse, but it is not better for sure
Its crazy how much different each jeep is. I wish we lived closer and could drive each others to see if the difference is in the jeep or the driver or both..
 
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parkhs0316

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Its crazy how much different each jeep is. I wish we lived closer and could drive each others to see if the difference is in the jeep or the driver or both..
YES!!! we had to depend on internet review now : (
 

Jeepjunkie

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Raising the rear track bar bracket made a big difference on the higher speed swaying that you are describing. Lifting the jeep changes the roll center, raising the axel side of the rear track bar gets it closer to where it was. Out of all the mods I have done this one probably made the most improvement in the way the Jeep handled at highway speeds.
^^^ this helped my rear end squirm after 3” of lift. My squirm was not wandering (I had that previously) and the squirm was more noticeable under acceleration. I raised the roll center of my rear track bar using a synergy bracket and the squirm was gone.
 

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Zandcwhite

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2⁰ more caster would make a huge difference in the driveability. Unfortunately you'll have to buy adjustable upper or lower control arms. We went with Rubicon express (mostly because the local 4 wheel parts had them in stock) and are very happy with them. Flex better than stock and are far more stout if we were to drop one on a rock.
 

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You have a decent amount of toe out in the front - that is enough to make it wonder. Get that aligned to slightly toe-in. You can do it in your garage by turning your tie rod until the front measurement (tire to tire) is about 1/16th of an inch shorter than the rear of the tire.

Do that first, before buying more control arms to adjust caster.
 

Zandcwhite

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You have a decent amount of toe out in the front - that is enough to make it wonder. Get that aligned to slightly toe-in. You can do it in your garage by turning your tie rod until the front measurement (tire to tire) is about 1/16th of an inch shorter than the rear of the tire.

Do that first, before buying more control arms to adjust caster.
I'd hardly call .2mm a decent amount of toe out, that's about as near to 0 as you can get. 1/130 of an inch. You'd never even see that with a drive way tape measure alignment.
 

Terminex

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Fixing stupid....
Regarding tire pressure:

With a set of properly balanced tires and correct suspension geometer, you SHOULD NOT NEED to drop tire pressure down to 30 or even 15 as some suggested here. That is ridiculous. That isn't fixing the problem, that is just masking it and sweep it under the rug.

On my Duratracs (Load Range E) I have mine set to 36 psi as per instruction on door jam and mine tracks like a dream.
I am sorry, but this is just wrong.

if you had said you “might” not have to drop below 35, i could agree.

tire pressure is dependent upon the tire first, then the weight at each corner.

different tires have different load characteristics. How many ply is the tire? How stiff is the sidewall?

chalk test is one of the best & easiest ways to help find the proper pressure.

the door jam sticker is for the factory vehicle, and even then, it is NOT necessarily the best pressure for the tires. It is the best all around for a factory vehicle with the factory tires. (Best trade off of mpg, safety, and ride).

OP explained that his vehicle is now far from stock, so it does not make sense to suggest arbitrary numbers from the door jam. (Although i completely agree with you that dropping down to 15psi for driving on the street is not only wrong, but downright dangerous)

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