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Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed

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JlRubicon13

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Ok thanks - yeah I was also wondering if wind noise could be an issue - say with windows rolled down and at certain speeds maybe there's more noise, or whistling etc...
Not that I have heard. It looks pretty cool and is an insurance in case u fall into a deep hole or something.
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partclay

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I ordered my snorkel back in April 2020. and installed it shortly after.

In August of 2020 I took it apart so I could run the axle, transfer case, and transmission breather hoses to the air box using Hauk Offroad's Breather hose extension kit. I was disappointed with what I saw.

The injection moulded parts of the snorkel kit had deformed where the rubber hose connectors and hose clamps were used. I'm not sure if it was a defect in the design of the injection moulded plastic parts, that I just tightened the pipe clamps too much, or both.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0854

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0855


The seal look compromised, which could let water in. Plus it seemed likely that it could deform further. Rather than taking up the matter with Rugged Ridge, which would have been a hassle since I'm in Canada, I resolved to fix it on my own.

I designed and 3D printed spacers that fit into these parts and hold the openings close to their original size while also providing support to prevent them from being deformed. This allows the pipe clamps to be tightened very snugly without deforming or compromising the seal. I used four of these spacers, one each end of the long tube that crosses the engine bay, and one in each part that the tube mates to.

I am happy with the result, and have had them installed since late September. Since I haven't had any problems with them yet I thought I may as well share them. The STL file has been uploaded to Cults so that anyone who wants to can print their own now.

You can get the printable 3D model here:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/spacers-for-the-rugged-ridge-jeep-jl-jt-snorkel-kit

If you don't have a 3D printer yourself you can probably get it printed for $15-$20 a piece from service (there are lots online, just Google it). Or better yet, if you have a buddy who has a printer just buy them a 1kg spool of ABS for $25-$30 and have them do it for you. One spool is more than enough to to do all four parts, with well over half the spool left over.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0981

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0986

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0990

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0991

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0996


A few notes:

* There is a lattice work/grill that is used to provide the support that makes the part hold it's shape. It likely will reduce airflow slightly, however I haven't noticed any change in performance.

* I strongly recommend 3D printing using a high temperature plastic like ABS. The air intake is not a hot part, but it is still in the engine bay, so on a hot day the whole assembly will be hot to touch.



P.S. With the Rugged Ridge snorkel I am also concerned about the connection between the Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit and the airbox. The gasket is basically useless and the whole thing is is loose AF.

Check this video out to see what I mean:

It literally won't hold water, and is the lowest point in the entire snorkel system. If water is going to reach anything it will be this first. I haven't decided what to do about it yet but am considering siliconing the hell out of it and/or wrapping it in rubber from an old inner tube and pipe clamping it.


P.P.S. I never did get the damned Hauk Offroad's Breather hose extension kit installed. The breather on the transfer case is just about to impossible to get at, at least with my big hands (see the photo below). I also ended up melting and deforming one of the plastic fittings with a heat gun trying to get it into the hose (I was trying to soften the hose not the fitting). After a couple hours rolling around on the ground under my Jeep up on ramps I ran out of daylight and had to put it back to stock.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0858


The whole kit is just standard plastic fittings, fuel line, and zip ties. So I plan to get replacement fitting, and give it another shot next summer. I appreciate of the convenience of getting it as a kit, but it would be nice if there was more documentation or videos to show how to get it installed. I'm sure it would be much more pleasant to install if the Jeep was up on a hoist as well.

P.P.P.S. If you get work done at a dealership, it doesn't hurt to check their work. I got my Jeep serviced the day before I installed the spacers and while working on the snorkel I noticed the dealership had left the engine vent hose disconnected. An innocent mistake I'm sure but something they should be embarrassed about. I sure am glad I caught it the next day, rather than 5000 miles down the road.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0992
 

wibornz

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My son bought me one of these snorkel kits for Christmas. He has a 3d printer, but he lives in Japan. I will have to look around and see if I can't get it printed locally before I reach out to him.
 

MNWrangx2

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I designed and 3D printed spacers that fit into these parts and hold the openings close to their original size while also providing support to prevent them from being deformed. This allows the pipe clamps to be tightened very snugly without deforming or compromising the seal. I used four of these spacers, one each end of the long tube that crosses the engine bay, and one in each part that the tube mates to.

I am happy with the result, and have had them installed since late September. Since I haven't had any problems with them yet I thought I may as well share them. The STL file has been uploaded to Cults so that anyone who wants to can print their own now.

You can get the printable 3D model here:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/spacers-for-the-rugged-ridge-jeep-jl-jt-snorkel-kit

If you don't have a 3D printer yourself you can probably get it printed for $15-$20 a piece from service (there are lots online, just Google it). Or better yet, if you have a buddy who has a printer just buy them a 1kg spool of ABS for $25-$30 and have them do it for you. One spool is more than enough to to do all four parts, with well over half the spool left over.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rugged Ridge JL/JT Snorkel kit installed IMG_0992


A few notes:

* There is a lattice work/grill that is used to provide the support that makes the part hold it's shape. It likely will reduce airflow slightly, however I haven't noticed any change in performance.

* I strongly recommend 3D printing using a high temperature plastic like ABS. The air intake is not a hot part, but it is still in the engine bay, so on a hot day the whole assembly will be hot to touch.
Clayton, I am going to have made these parts in ABS (my old 3D printer is PLA only), but before I go and pay someone $80 or so to make 4 (PC-ABS cost was double that), I wanted to verify the "100% infill" setting. Wouldn't that make these a solid block without the air grid? I admit to being mostly a noob on 3D printing.

From your Cults3D page:
3D PRINTING SETTINGS
100% infill, and use a high temperature plastic like ABS. Low temperature plastics may melt and cause problems for your engine.

(I also have the same concerns on how to install the Hauk breather kit and will address Rugged Ridge seal issues when installed; kind of wish I had just bought the Hauk River Raider snorkel instead.)
 

partclay

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I wanted to verify the "100% infill" setting. Wouldn't that make these a solid block without the air grid? I admit to being mostly a noob on 3D printing.
The infill setting only applies to the interior of the model. The air grid/grill is the exterior surface, and will still be there even with 100% infill. If you get a plastic brick back from the printing service they've screwed up in some way.

The main reason for using less that 100% infill is to reduce the material used, and to be able to print faster. If you were printing something decorative such as a model Jeep, you could save money by decreasing the infill.

The walls of these spacers is aren't very thick though, so even if you did print them with something less than 100% infill you'd likely save less than a buck a spacer. That wouldn't be worth reduction in structural strength though.
 

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MNWrangx2

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The infill setting only applies to the interior of the model. The air grid/grill is the exterior surface, and will still be there even with 100% infill. If you get a plastic brick back from the printing service they've screwed up in some way.

The main reason for using less that 100% infill is to reduce the material used, and to be able to print faster. If you were printing something decorative such as a model Jeep, you could save money by decreasing the infill.

The walls of these spacers is aren't very thick though, so even if you did print them with something less than 100% infill you'd likely save less than a buck a spacer. That wouldn't be worth reduction in structural strength though.
Thank you! Placing my order now.

Update: Just received the 3D printed parts from Mexico about 6 days later. You were right, 100% infill is the way to go. I'll install them at some point in the near future.
 
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4x4inthe6

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Thanks so much for this post and file @partclay I am considering this CAI and happy to have found this helpful thread. I can get them done here is PETG. Do you think that will be ok?

Thanks again!
 

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Thank you! Placing my order now.

Update: Just received the 3D printed parts from Mexico about 6 days later. You were right, 100% infill is the way to go. I'll install them at some point in the near future.
You got a link to the service company you used? I think I need these parts too, I noticed mine has taken on a similar shape.
 

MNWrangx2

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You got a link to the service company you used? I think I need these parts too, I noticed mine has taken on a similar shape.
I used the producer on the site where partclay posted his design file. Went through Craftcloud3d, to many producer options. I picked a site in Mexico and had it in like 6 days; was around $80 for the 4 pieces with 100% infill in black unsanded ABS. They fit tightly in the openings (did file down a little just the end of the one that I put in the snorkel cowl piece). My install is nearly complete.

The Rugged Ridge attachment to the airbox is loose as was posted earlier, so RTV silicone plus a lot of JB Weld and it's not moving now or going to leak! (yeah, I will not be able to take that apart again later - if I get really mad at this design, I'll go to a Hauk snorkel with its own new airbox like I should have; annoyed having to make these mods).
 

partclay

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@4x4inthe6 PETG melts at temperatures between 230-240C, which is 10-20C lower than ABS. That's not a lot lower, so it might be okay.

The temperature of components in the engine bay will vary a lot depending on how close to the block they are, what they do, the weather, and what sort of driving you are doing. The only way to be 100% certain would be to use a min/max temperature probe at the location of the snorkel and test it in the hottest scenario.

I suspect the intake air passing over the parts will help keep them relatively cool, but all I can tell you for certain is that my ABS ones haven't melted, yet.
 

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MacombRoger

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I used the producer on the site where partclay posted his design file. Went through Craftcloud3d, to many producer options. I picked a site in Mexico and had it in like 6 days; was around $80 for the 4 pieces with 100% infill in black unsanded ABS. They fit tightly in the openings (did file down a little just the end of the one that I put in the snorkel cowl piece). My install is nearly complete.

The Rugged Ridge attachment to the airbox is loose as was posted earlier, so RTV silicone plus a lot of JB Weld and it's not moving now or going to leak! (yeah, I will not be able to take that apart again later - if I get really mad at this design, I'll go to a Hauk snorkel with its own new airbox like I should have; annoyed having to make these mods).
Yep, went to download the file and saw the link to CraftCloud too. Ordered it up in black unsanded ABS 100% infill for I think $25 with shipping. It was too easy. I'll have to remember that when others post project files on here. A little manual filing is no problem for me, the "Sanded" price was really high. :)
Thanks!
 

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Yep, went to download the file and saw the link to CraftCloud too. Ordered it up in black unsanded ABS 100% infill for I think $25 with shipping. It was too easy. I'll have to remember that when others post project files on here. A little manual filing is no problem for me, the "Sanded" price was really high. :)
Thanks!
Did you order 4, or only 1 part? Mine was more like $20 per part.
 

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Did you order 4, or only 1 part? Mine was more like $20 per part.
Ummmmm... I only ordered 1. I assumed it was a set of 4. Oops. Well I will check out the one and see how I like it. The pipe coming off the cowl is the only one in real bad shape for me anyway. But I have a feeling I will be ordering more of them in the end. Also have a friend @rubigator that is going to want some too.
 

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@4x4inthe6 PETG melts at temperatures between 230-240C, which is 10-20C lower than ABS. That's not a lot lower, so it might be okay.

The temperature of components in the engine bay will vary a lot depending on how close to the block they are, what they do, the weather, and what sort of driving you are doing. The only way to be 100% certain would be to use a min/max temperature probe at the location of the snorkel and test it in the hottest scenario.

I suspect the intake air passing over the parts will help keep them relatively cool, but all I can tell you for certain is that my ABS ones haven't melted, yet.
Wow, that's higher than the flash point on Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 or even 5w30 synthetic motor oil!
 

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Wow, i was so hyped when I seen it and about to order.

Now reading all this I guess I won't. How can the quality of a 600 bucks plastics part be so bad?
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