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limeade

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I believe I have the first version. See picture below. Should I remove the Synergy brace before taking it into the dealership or will they be able to replace it and not break anything?

2BF393B6-78BA-48A3-BAA4-24EFFB38AB88.jpeg
That looks like the gray/aluminum box to me. If the bolt heads are silver, then it is definitely the aluminum box. The new steel box gets black bolts.

I asked my advisor about the presence of the track bar brace and how it was attached. He wasn't worried about it, stating as long as it didn't require a lot of steps to the R&R process it would be fine. I had them order the new box for it today. He said it might be delivered within a week or two as FCA was getting them out a lot quicker lately.
 

AltJL

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I finally had the TSB completed. I began the process in September and had more than one hiccup with the dealer. But, Helen from Jeep Cares sorted it out for me. Thanks! It really does feel so much better.
 

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SpeedKills

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I was not happy with ours after the TSB. I saw someone's post about power steering fluid levels so I checked ours. The fluid was barely visible in the resevoir. I ordered the $20 bottle of Mopar fluid, added to max, and cycled the power steering lock-to-lock a couple of times. Fluid level dropped a bit and steering feel tightened. I wish I had tried that before dropping $225 on a JKS track bar. 🤠
 

bikenutty

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got mine back yesterday after new steering box. drives way better straight.... BUT it is harder to turn the wheel AND now bumps in the road cause the steering wheel to bounce, plus it pulls left all the time.

I looked under the hood and the fluid was low, but not much. I also noticed the bolts were NOT replaced. The work order said nothing about the bulletin, showed only the gear box and fluid as parts. Nothing about reprogramming. Also written was a 4 wheel alignment, but no alignment info was provided.

I also notice it seems to want to over steer now, I find it a little difficult to maintain a contant line when turning on a long bend in the road...

Back to the dealer I go, after they call me back about the bolts.

1 step forward, 1 step back, maybe 2.
 

CarbonSteel

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I was not happy with ours after the TSB. I saw someone's post about power steering fluid levels so I checked ours. The fluid was barely visible in the resevoir. I ordered the $20 bottle of Mopar fluid, added to max, and cycled the power steering lock-to-lock a couple of times. Fluid level dropped a bit and steering feel tightened. I wish I had tried that before dropping $225 on a JKS track bar. 🤠
I may have posted about checking the power steering fluid levels. I do not think you wasted any money buying an adjustable track bar. Realize that the OEM track bar has crimped ends and over time those loosen due to driving forces. A worn track bar and/or its bushings are the major contributor for the beginnings of death wobble.
 

CarbonSteel

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got mine back yesterday after new steering box. drives way better straight.... BUT it is harder to turn the wheel AND now bumps in the road cause the steering wheel to bounce, plus it pulls left all the time.

I looked under the hood and the fluid was low, but not much. I also noticed the bolts were NOT replaced. The work order said nothing about the bulletin, showed only the gear box and fluid as parts. Nothing about reprogramming. Also written was a 4 wheel alignment, but no alignment info was provided.

I also notice it seems to want to over steer now, I find it a little difficult to maintain a contant line when turning on a long bend in the road...

Back to the dealer I go, after they call me back about the bolts.

1 step forward, 1 step back, maybe 2.
Some have reported that the programming was done even though it doesn't show on the invoice depending on how the tech entered the information into the system. Obviously, you want to have the correct bolts installed because the original bolts will be far too long. You can always have the dealer confirm whether or not they did the reprogramming as well.
 

jlgolfcart

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Some have reported that the programming was done even though it doesn't show on the invoice depending on how the tech entered the information into the system. Obviously, you want to have the correct bolts installed because the original bolts will be far too long. You can always have the dealer confirm whether or not they did the reprogramming as well.
Does anybody know if the programming is different from the original steering box and the new steering box? They first replaced my steering box with the old steering box and re-programmed it then they replaced it with the new steering box but does not say that they re-programmed it again.
 

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Does anybody know if the programming is different from the original steering box and the new steering box? They first replaced my steering box with the old steering box and re-programmed it then they replaced it with the new steering box but does not say that they re-programmed it again.
Yes; I have read that it is different programming (not just a "reflash" of the original).
 

limeade

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Does anybody know if the programming is different from the original steering box and the new steering box? They first replaced my steering box with the old steering box and re-programmed it then they replaced it with the new steering box but does not say that they re-programmed it again.
Yes, it's a different program. According to my service advisor, this is due to the new steel gear box operating under different parameters than the old aluminum one. If you're having issues after the having the new box installed, I would do the following:

Ensure the PS fluid is at the correct level
Drive, preferably on roads where you have to turn the wheel a lot, so you can purge the system of air - OR - bleed the system in your garage
Re-check your PS fluid

If problems still persist, go to dealer who performed the work and verify they actually updated the ECU/PCM with the new software. This software update is listed in the TSB.

Seems like there's quite a few service Dept's not updating the software and/or bleeding the system and topping off the fluid.
 

jlgolfcart

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Yes, it's a different program. According to my service advisor, this is due to the new steel gear box operating under different parameters than the old aluminum one. If you're having issues after the having the new box installed, I would do the following:

Ensure the PS fluid is at the correct level
Drive, preferably on roads where you have to turn the wheel a lot, so you can purge the system of air - OR - bleed the system in your garage
Re-check your PS fluid

If problems still persist, go to dealer who performed the work and verify they actually updated the ECU/PCM with the new software. This software update is listed in the TSB.

Seems like there's quite a few service Dept's not updating the software and/or bleeding the system and topping off the fluid.
Thank you both for replying.
 

Levin_tom

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Swapping steering boxes this week. What should I tell the service department advisor so they don’t screw up the install? I have read about steering fluid level and making sure they update to the new software. Thanks!
 

cosmokenney

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Swapping steering boxes this week. What should I tell the service department advisor so they don’t screw up the install? I have read about steering fluid level and making sure they update to the new software. Thanks!
How do you make sure they updated the software? I do not have any confidence that my dealer will do it. And I'm not willing to just take their word for it.
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