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SmoothJeepOperator

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Yeah I'd love to do the same...especially with the tie rod and drag link but Synergy has been out of stock for a couple weeks now...guess I'll just have to be patient. And when you say game changer....what specifically did it help?
Hmm I am strongly considering this lift, but this makes be second guess it. It comes with lower control arms right? But they aren't adjustable. And the track bar is right? I may have to consider something different now.
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Rock Krawler Suspension

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Hmm I am strongly considering this lift, but this makes be second guess it. It comes with lower control arms right? But they aren't adjustable. And the track bar is right? I may have to consider something different now.
For adjustable front lowers with an an adjustable track bar, look at a Flex System.
 

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For adjustable front lowers with an an adjustable track bar, look at a Flex System.
I was originally looking at MC but don't want to wait through the end of summer for it to ship and want a more true-to-size lift. I'm considering a 2.5 flex for my 2 door JLR - paired with fox 2.0s. I think my wheels come close to minimum spec here but I'm going to be running fifteen52 17x8.5 wheels ET0 4.75BS. I should clear just fine with these no? Planning on either a KM3 in 35x12.50x17 or 37x12.50 - can't make up my mind there.

Also, at what point do you guys recommend a front driveshaft? I know MC recommends them always but I'm hearing I don't need to mess with it unless I'm going 3.5 and a very long shock. I'm going to be wheeling this thing basically all the time out here in socal.

And third - If I'm understanding the way your lifts work correctly with the Flex system I can simply add control arms and rear trackbar to go full X-factor later on, and I can add 3.5" springs to get myself to 3.5 using all the same components otherwise - this all sound right?


Thanks!
 

Rock Krawler Suspension

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I was originally looking at MC but don't want to wait through the end of summer for it to ship and want a more true-to-size lift. I'm considering a 2.5 flex for my 2 door JLR - paired with fox 2.0s. I think my wheels come close to minimum spec here but I'm going to be running fifteen52 17x8.5 wheels ET0 4.75BS. I should clear just fine with these no? Planning on either a KM3 in 35x12.50x17 or 37x12.50 - can't make up my mind there.

Also, at what point do you guys recommend a front driveshaft? I know MC recommends them always but I'm hearing I don't need to mess with it unless I'm going 3.5 and a very long shock. I'm going to be wheeling this thing basically all the time out here in socal.

And third - If I'm understanding the way your lifts work correctly with the Flex system I can simply add control arms and rear trackbar to go full X-factor later on, and I can add 3.5" springs to get myself to 3.5 using all the same components otherwise - this all sound right?


Thanks!
A 4.75" BS wheel will work on 35's but will be pretty tight on 37's.

We recommend a front driveshaft with any front shock that has an extended length of more than 29.5".

Yes, everything is modular. If you went from a 2.5" Flex to a 3.5" the only thing you'd need to add besides springs is a rear track bar (3.5" kits come with them, 2.5" kits don't) You can add arms to go to a Max Travel or an X Factor, You could do a long arm upgrade to go long arm, you could do a Coilover upgrade to go coilovers... everything is modular.
 

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I was originally looking at MC but don't want to wait through the end of summer for it to ship and want a more true-to-size lift. I'm considering a 2.5 flex for my 2 door JLR - paired with fox 2.0s. I think my wheels come close to minimum spec here but I'm going to be running fifteen52 17x8.5 wheels ET0 4.75BS. I should clear just fine with these no? Planning on either a KM3 in 35x12.50x17 or 37x12.50 - can't make up my mind there.

Also, at what point do you guys recommend a front driveshaft? I know MC recommends them always but I'm hearing I don't need to mess with it unless I'm going 3.5 and a very long shock. I'm going to be wheeling this thing basically all the time out here in socal.

And third - If I'm understanding the way your lifts work correctly with the Flex system I can simply add control arms and rear trackbar to go full X-factor later on, and I can add 3.5" springs to get myself to 3.5 using all the same components otherwise - this all sound right?


Thanks!
Jesse - MC recommends a driveshaft because their front shocks are super long. You'll also have to take the cross member out for clearance, even with an aftermarket shaft. IMO you aren't gaining all that much by allowing the front to droop as much as they do.

Your tires might kiss the arms at FULL LOCK on the 37s, but BFGs run pretty narrow in the 35 and 37, so you should be fine. I have KM3s on mine and love them, but those are the facts. :)

The RK systems are seriously nice for the JLs. They cover all the bases without any snake oil and I have yet to have anyone say anything but the highest remarks on ride quality, handling, and longevity in all my years as a dealer and installer. We install a ton of suspension and 9 out of 10 are RK systems.

Marcus
 

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Jesse - MC recommends a driveshaft because their front shocks are super long. You'll also have to take the cross member out for clearance, even with an aftermarket shaft. IMO you aren't gaining all that much by allowing the front to droop as much as they do.

Your tires might kiss the arms at FULL LOCK on the 37s, but BFGs run pretty narrow in the 35 and 37, so you should be fine. I have KM3s on mine and love them, but those are the facts. :)

The RK systems are seriously nice for the JLs. They cover all the bases without any snake oil and I have yet to have anyone say anything but the highest remarks on ride quality, handling, and longevity in all my years as a dealer and installer. We install a ton of suspension and 9 out of 10 are RK systems.

Marcus
I didn't ask the question but this is very helpful feedback. thanks. I've been looking at "upgrading" my mopar lift for a while. I've been going back and forth between MC and RK because both are very highly regarded. The couple things I was concerned about with RK was needing more back spacing for my 37's (stock wheels), having to cut out the front control arm brackets on the axle side for clearance, and on-road feel and handling since that is where I spend 98% of my time.
 

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A 4.75" BS wheel will work on 35's but will be pretty tight on 37's.

We recommend a front driveshaft with any front shock that has an extended length of more than 29.5".

Yes, everything is modular. If you went from a 2.5" Flex to a 3.5" the only thing you'd need to add besides springs is a rear track bar (3.5" kits come with them, 2.5" kits don't) You can add arms to go to a Max Travel or an X Factor, You could do a long arm upgrade to go long arm, you could do a Coilover upgrade to go coilovers... everything is modular.
Awesome, thanks for the info. I'm having wheel regret now knowing the wheels I ordered might not be enough offset, but I'm gonna work with it and see what happens. Worst case I run a spacer and then next year go to KMC beadlocks.
Jesse - MC recommends a driveshaft because their front shocks are super long. You'll also have to take the cross member out for clearance, even with an aftermarket shaft. IMO you aren't gaining all that much by allowing the front to droop as much as they do.

Your tires might kiss the arms at FULL LOCK on the 37s, but BFGs run pretty narrow in the 35 and 37, so you should be fine. I have KM3s on mine and love them, but those are the facts. :)

The RK systems are seriously nice for the JLs. They cover all the bases without any snake oil and I have yet to have anyone say anything but the highest remarks on ride quality, handling, and longevity in all my years as a dealer and installer. We install a ton of suspension and 9 out of 10 are RK systems.

Marcus
Yeah - honestly it's a relief to not have to immediately do a driveshaft. You think RK Flex 2.5" + 37 KM3s is a workable setup or do I need to be thinking about 3.5" if I go with a 37 size tire? I'm still on the fence on 35 vs 37 but I feel like many others here that if I go with the 35 I'm gonna wish I just did 37s, especially on the KM3s running a bit smaller, especially the 35s. Keep in mind I am on a 2-door JLR.

Other than the 35/37 debate, I think I'm sold - appreciate the feedback from both you and RK!
 

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Yeah - honestly it's a relief to not have to immediately do a driveshaft. You think RK Flex 2.5" + 37 KM3s is a workable setup or do I need to be thinking about 3.5" if I go with a 37 size tire? I'm still on the fence on 35 vs 37 but I feel like many others here that if I go with the 35 I'm gonna wish I just did 37s, especially on the KM3s running a bit smaller, especially the 35s. Keep in mind I am on a 2-door JLR.

Other than the 35/37 debate, I think I'm sold - appreciate the feedback from both you and RK!
I like the 2.5 and 37s on two doors. If you go 35s you're going to wish you had done 37s. 37" KM3s are about 35.5" tall overall and their 35 is about 33.5. Go with the 37.
 

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This is my dilemma. To go with 35/37. My concern is fitting in my garage (around 8ft) and if I’ll need to regear. The garage I think I’ll be fine on the garage side. But is it automatic that you lose 8th gear and need to re gear if you go with 37s?
 

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This is my dilemma. To go with 35/37. My concern is fitting in my garage (around 8ft) and if I’ll need to regear. The garage I think I’ll be fine on the garage side. But is it automatic that you lose 8th gear and need to re gear if you go with 37s?
I’m running 37s with 4.10s , and still has plenty of power. Don’t see 8 th gear as often, but still see it. It’s just ok enough that I haven’t pulled the trigger on gears yet. It’s not something you’ll have to do right away.

You should be fine as far as your garage if you have a standard 7 foot door. It was 78” to top of my hardtop when I had it on, about 80” with my soft top.
 

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Jshwon

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I’m running 37s with 4.10s , and still has plenty of power. Don’t see 8 th gear as often, but still see it. It’s just ok enough that I haven’t pulled the trigger on gears yet. It’s not something you’ll have to do right away.

You should be fine as far as your garage if you have a standard 7 foot door. It was 78” to top of my hardtop when I had it on, about 80” with my soft top.
Thanks for the feedback. 35s will be easier I just think if I do them I’ll want 37s in short order. Measure twice cut once? If I can live with the 4.10s that would be the preference. Is re gearing costly or depends on the ratio you go with?
 

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Thanks for the feedback. 35s will be easier I just think if I do them I’ll want 37s in short order. Measure twice cut once? If I can live with the 4.10s that would be the preference. Is re gearing costly or depends on the ratio you go with?
Figure around 2 grand, some places less at least in cali, lowest ive seen is 1300
 

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Thanks for the feedback. 35s will be easier I just think if I do them I’ll want 37s in short order. Measure twice cut once? If I can live with the 4.10s that would be the preference. Is re gearing costly or depends on the ratio you go with?
It depends more on where you have it done, the ratio doesn’t affect cost. Around here it’s anywhere from 1200 to 2000.
 

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Awesome, thanks for the info. I'm having wheel regret now knowing the wheels I ordered might not be enough offset, but I'm gonna work with it and see what happens. Worst case I run a spacer and then next year go to KMC beadlocks.


Yeah - honestly it's a relief to not have to immediately do a driveshaft. You think RK Flex 2.5" + 37 KM3s is a workable setup or do I need to be thinking about 3.5" if I go with a 37 size tire? I'm still on the fence on 35 vs 37 but I feel like many others here that if I go with the 35 I'm gonna wish I just did 37s, especially on the KM3s running a bit smaller, especially the 35s. Keep in mind I am on a 2-door JLR.

Other than the 35/37 debate, I think I'm sold - appreciate the feedback from both you and RK!
How did your lift and 4.75” of backspace work out?
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