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Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5?

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Jeepsk8

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Does anyone have a sport with 3.5 GameChanger and 35’s. I have a 2.5 rc spacer. I want a bit more lift when I do a full suspension. Curious of 2.5,3.5 compared to my spacer lift.
I netted 3 1/4" on my JLUR pictured above. I believe they (and most other lift companys) state their lift heights with a fully outfitted Jeep. You know, steel bumpers, armor and big spare tire...
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Here a pic of my MetalCloak 2.5” GameChanger, Rock Slide Engineering Step Sliders, and Fuel Vector 17x9 and 35” tires. Thanks to @rustyshakelford for the install.
Looks great! Happy to have been apart of your build!

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Here a pic of my MetalCloak 2.5” GameChanger, Rock Slide Engineering Step Sliders, and Fuel Vector 17x9 and 35” tires. Thanks to @rustyshakelford for the install.
@golfe - would you be so kind as to tell me what the distance is from the flat part of the inside door sill to the ground?
 

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Coolbaldguy

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here are some before and after pics from my 2.5 Game Changer on my 2 door Rubicon. I took the after pics with the factory wheels and tires back on so it could show an exact difference at each corner. I have the tape measure from the floor to the lower control arm bracket. One or two of the pics the tape measure appears crooked, but it is just a camera angle thing. the tape was straight up and down.
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? Screenshot_20201128-142414_Photos
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? Screenshot_20201128-142228_Photos
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? Screenshot_20201128-142139_Photos
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? Screenshot_20201128-142112_Photos
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? Screenshot_20201128-142029_Photos
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? Screenshot_20201128-142004_Photos
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? Screenshot_20201128-141934_Photos
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? Screenshot_20201128-141900_Photos


20200809_174029 (1).jpg


20201206_100544.jpg
 
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So after a few weeks with this lift installed I have some thoughts. The ride is great, not factory, but considering I'm running 37's on beadlocks it wouldn't be anyway. It feels way different going over speed bumps because of the way the dual rate coils work, not bad just different.

The directions leave out a few important things about making sure you cut the zip ties for the FAD wire and the locker wire for Rubicons. This isn't my first lift so I was aware to check for stuff like that. No mention about emergency brake cable relocation either. I probably didn't need to do it running a 2.5" lift but all the hard parts are shared with the 3.5" lift except springs...same amount of down droop. It made sense to me to just do it. Front outboard shock mounts include a spacer to fill the gap where your bottom shock mount was. The new bracket surrounds the old location and using the stock shock bolt and the spacer, torqued to spec, there was no way the ears of the mounts were going to suck up tight to the spacer so it was gonna sit there and jingle jangle, driving me nuts. I took out the spacer. Make absolutely sure you torque everything down. My first outing ended abruptly because those things I missed started rattling bad.

I was getting a front end wobble, not death wobble, between 45 and 55 mph. I was thinking it was because I was running unbalanced 37's and beadlocks (come to think of it, it was there with the stocks wheels and tires too) so I installed balance beads in the front tires (PITA, btw) with no change. I broke out my measuring devices and caster seemed ok, I need to center the axle a little more, but...and this was a biggie...my LCA's were not the same! My drivers side arm was 1/4" shorter than the passenger side. I'm sure they were setup correctly before the install, but through all the manhandling involved in the install, this one got out of whack. I fixed that this morning and on my test drive it appears to have solved the wobble. I'll be sure after a few more drives. Now to put those stupid beads in the rear tires, I can feel it in my seat without them, lol.

Overall this is a great kit! I've had others, different manufacturers and types, and this is hands down the best lift I've ever had. It rides good, flexes like a cat and doggone it, it looks cool.
 

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So after a few weeks with this lift installed I have some thoughts. The ride is great, not factory, but considering I'm running 37's on beadlocks it wouldn't be anyway. It feels way different going over speed bumps because of the way the dual rate coils work, not bad just different.

The directions leave out a few important things about making sure you cut the zip ties for the FAD wire and the locker wire for Rubicons. This isn't my first lift so I was aware to check for stuff like that. No mention about emergency brake cable relocation either. I probably didn't need to do it running a 2.5" lift but all the hard parts are shared with the 3.5" lift except springs...same amount of down droop. It made sense to me to just do it. Front outboard shock mounts include a spacer to fill the gap where your bottom shock mount was. The new bracket surrounds the old location and using the stock shock bolt and the spacer, torqued to spec, there was no way the ears of the mounts were going to suck up tight to the spacer so it was gonna sit there and jingle jangle, driving me nuts. I took out the spacer. Make absolutely sure you torque everything down. My first outing ended abruptly because those things I missed started rattling bad.

I was getting a front end wobble, not death wobble, between 45 and 55 mph. I was thinking it was because I was running unbalanced 37's and beadlocks (come to think of it, it was there with the stocks wheels and tires too) so I installed balance beads in the front tires (PITA, btw) with no change. I broke out my measuring devices and caster seemed ok, I need to center the axle a little more, but...and this was a biggie...my LCA's were not the same! My drivers side arm was 1/4" shorter than the passenger side. I'm sure they were setup correctly before the install, but through all the manhandling involved in the install, this one got out of whack. I fixed that this morning and on my test drive it appears to have solved the wobble. I'll be sure after a few more drives. Now to put those stupid beads in the rear tires, I can feel it in my seat without them, lol.

Overall this is a great kit! I've had others, different manufacturers and types, and this is hands down the best lift I've ever had. It rides good, flexes like a cat and doggone it, it looks cool.
I just finished my install too. I was able to get the front shock spacer nice and tight, so maybe your spacers were too short? I installed the 2.5 game changer and I rerouted the ebrake cables under the support too. I think they should add that to their instructions. I have a question about the front sway bar links. My links appear too long (attached pic) they work but the sway bar ends are angled upward and I am concerned that at full articulation the sway bar might bottom out. How does your look?

20201202_192329.jpg
 
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Jeepsk8

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So what’s the purpose of the aluminum spacer that’s supposed to go in the front lower shock relocation bracket? It’s not nearly as wide as the space it goes into. It’ll just flop loose around and rattle on the bolt. I can’t see any purpose it serves. What am I missing?
I just finished my install too. I was able to get the front shock spacer nice and tight, so maybe your spacers were too short? I installed the 2.5 game changer and I rerouted the ebrake cables under the support too. I think they should add that to their instructions. I have a question about the front sway bar links. My links appear too long (attached pic) they work but the sway bar ends are angled upward and I am concerned that at full articulation the sway bar might bottom out. How does your look?

Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? 20201202_192329
Mine are the same. I did this disconnected and no rubbing.
Jeep Wrangler JL Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5 or 3.5? 20201205_101500


As far as the spacer, mine were way too short, I would have needed at least 2 washers to fill the gap. Not sure there is much to worry about anyway.
 

Coolbaldguy

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Looks like we have the same taste in Jeep parts LOL. I jut ordered Machete beadlocks ( machined finish) and I am looking at the LOD shorty front bumper too!
 

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Looks like we have the same taste in Jeep parts LOL. I jut ordered Machete beadlocks ( machined finish) and I am looking at the LOD shorty front bumper too!
This is my first go with beadlocks, installing them myself and all. I've had my ass handed to me through it all, lol. I wouldn't trade the experience for anything though. Wheel selection is daunting and I'm glad I got what I did. They are heavy.

I am an LoD fan boy, I admit it. Love their stuff! This is my 3rd Jeep with their stuff on it. I have their Destroyer sliders mounted up. The front bumper is their Signature series. I went with that to get the winch down and out of the way of the radiator, it mounts on top of the Destroyer bumper. I just ordered the full width Destroyer rear bumper with tire carrier. I need something to carry the load of this heavy spare, lol.
 

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This is my first go with beadlocks, installing them myself and all. I've had my ass handed to me through it all, lol. I wouldn't trade the experience for anything though. Wheel selection is daunting and I'm glad I got what I did. They are heavy.

I am an LoD fan boy, I admit it. Love their stuff! This is my 3rd Jeep with their stuff on it. I have their Destroyer sliders mounted up. The front bumper is their Signature series. I went with that to get the winch down and out of the way of the radiator, it mounts on top of the Destroyer bumper. I just ordered the full width Destroyer rear bumper with tire carrier. I need something to carry the load of this heavy spare, lol.
The signature series front is exactly what I was looking at for the same reasons. I am going to be mounting 37" Ridge Grapplers myself. Any tips?
 
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It will be a lot easier to install the bumper (tighten hardware) without the winch in place. That said, it might be tight getting the winch in once the bolts are tightened. All depends on what winch you have.
 

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It will be a lot easier to install the bumper (tighten hardware) without the winch in place. That said, it might be tight getting the winch in once the bolts are tightened. All depends on what winch you have.
Good to know, but I was talking about the beadlocks. Lots of youtube videos on them, my biggest concern is getting them balanced. I don't want to use balance beads...I have been down that path before...
 
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I actually started off with them unbalanced and they seemed fine, but I had that wobble I am trying to figure out. So I got the beads and they seem to be doing what they are supposed to do. I didn't want stick on weights, lol. For me, I went with the Cooper STT Pro's in 37x12.5-17 load range D and KMC Machete wheels. It was an absolute fight getting the wheel into the tire, another fight getting the outer bead to sit onto lip and a whole bunch of wrenching to get the ring installed correctly. Some of those dudes on YouTube just flip...flap...bang and the tire is on ready for the ring. That said, tire and wheel selection will dictate how the fight goes, lol.
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