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Speaker replacement upgrade

jgdiablo

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I have the PSS-23WRA upgrade in my JLUS, with a 7" UConnect. I now want to upgrade the knee and soundbar speakers. I'm looking for recommendations for a plug and play approach, without rewiring. I was thinking of going with Alpine R-S65.2 for both areas. Can I just use factory wiring? Any guidance would be appreciated.
 

Kidcia

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I have the PSS-23WRA upgrade in my JLUS, with a 7" UConnect. I now want to upgrade the knee and soundbar speakers. I'm looking for recommendations for a plug and play approach, without rewiring. I was thinking of going with Alpine R-S65.2 for both areas. Can I just use factory wiring? Any guidance would be appreciated.
Buy the knee panel replacements and the adapter wires. No cutting to factory and easily removed when needed. I have all 8 speaker adapters for mine even tho only 2 are being used.
 

jgdiablo

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Sorry - my question was mostly around the speaker choice - 4 ohm and if using factory wiring, it's run in parallel and will work without any other resistors, etc.
 

millerjl

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Hi all, My 2021 JLUR with base 7" is entering shipping so it's time to start looking at speaker upgrades.

This is primarily the wife's jeep and she prefers what I would call higher sounding speakers I guess. She doesn't want a lot of bass.

She has Bose headphones and loves that type of sound. Also like JBL.

I was looking on crutchfield and was thinking of putting these in:

JBL Club 322F for top dash

  • 3-1/2" 2-way speakers (pair)
  • polypropylene Plus Oneā„¢ woofer cone with rubber surround
  • silk semi-dome tweeter
  • handles up to 25 watts RMS (75 watts peak power)
  • frequency response: 90-20,000 Hz
  • impedance: 3 ohms
  • sensitivity: 89 dB
  • top-mount depth: 1-9/16"
JBL Club 620F knees using the metra adapters

  • 6-1/2" 2-way speakers (pair)
  • shallow-mount polypropylene Plus Oneā„¢ woofer cone with rubber surround
  • PEI balanced dome tweeter
  • handles up to 55 watts RMS (165 watts peak power)
  • frequency response: 55-20,000 Hz
  • impedance: 3 ohms
  • sensitivity: 92 dB at 2.83 volts
  • top-mount depth: 1-15/16"
It has been 20+ years since I messed around with car audio but any issues with these being 3 ohms.

If I do not plan on putting in a sub should I get a 4 channel amp to bump the sound up?

Or are these just the wrong choice?

Appreciate the advice.
 

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Kidcia

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Hi all, My 2021 JLUR with base 7" is entering shipping so it's time to start looking at speaker upgrades.

This is primarily the wife's jeep and she prefers what I would call higher sounding speakers I guess. She doesn't want a lot of bass.

She has Bose headphones and loves that type of sound. Also like JBL.

I was looking on crutchfield and was thinking of putting these in:

JBL Club 322F for top dash

  • 3-1/2" 2-way speakers (pair)
  • polypropylene Plus Oneā„¢ woofer cone with rubber surround
  • silk semi-dome tweeter
  • handles up to 25 watts RMS (75 watts peak power)
  • frequency response: 90-20,000 Hz
  • impedance: 3 ohms
  • sensitivity: 89 dB
  • top-mount depth: 1-9/16"
JBL Club 620F knees using the metra adapters

  • 6-1/2" 2-way speakers (pair)
  • shallow-mount polypropylene Plus Oneā„¢ woofer cone with rubber surround
  • PEI balanced dome tweeter
  • handles up to 55 watts RMS (165 watts peak power)
  • frequency response: 55-20,000 Hz
  • impedance: 3 ohms
  • sensitivity: 92 dB at 2.83 volts
  • top-mount depth: 1-15/16"
It has been 20+ years since I messed around with car audio but any issues with these being 3 ohms.

If I do not plan on putting in a sub should I get a 4 channel amp to bump the sound up?

Or are these just the wrong choice?

Appreciate the advice.
Thats a great choice. I went through several speakers in these locations. If you want the best bang for what your paying an amo is always great to add. But for a stock setup your on the right track. I had 3 ohm infinity primus speakers that sounded great in the knee panels. And i have dome tweeters in the top dash but i feel like the factory styled speakers would be better and the dome tweeters should be in the sound bar.
 

Gaust

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Oh snap! Is anyone running the JL?! Love JL products!
Iā€™m using som JL Audio products and am very happy with them. Iā€™ve got a JL XD 800/8v2 under one seat running 75 watts x 4 to mid range, tweeters, and 200 watts x 2 to mid bass in lower dash. Under the other seat I have an Alpine Pdr-V75 running only the subwoofer channel, 350 watts, to a JL 10TW3 D4 subwoofer. Iā€™ll eventually swap the Alpine amp out for a Mono block and run 2 of the JL subwoofers at 1 ohm. Build fiberglass enclosures in the sides like the JL stealth boxes.
 

Kidcia

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Iā€™m using som JL Audio products and am very happy with them. Iā€™ve got a JL XD 800/8v2 under one seat running 75 watts x 4 to mid range, tweeters, and 200 watts x 2 to mid bass in lower dash. Under the other seat I have an Alpine Pdr-V75 running only the subwoofer channel, 350 watts, to a JL 10TW3 D4 subwoofer. Iā€™ll eventually swap the Alpine amp out for a Mono block and run 2 of the JL subwoofers at 1 ohm. Build fiberglass enclosures in the sides like the JL stealth boxes.
That sounds awesome. What grounds did you use for the amps under seat? And when running the rcas did you go from hu to arm rest to amp or ... hu to behind the glove box and down the side to amp? I ask cause im getting engine interference
 

Kidcia

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Sorry - my question was mostly around the speaker choice - 4 ohm and if using factory wiring, it's run in parallel and will work without any other resistors, etc.
I do mot have an answer for that one. I do beleive that if the ohms are relatively close to the factory speakers you should be fine.
 

Gaust

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That sounds awesome. What grounds did you use for the amps under seat? And when running the rcas did you go from hu to arm rest to amp or ... hu to behind the glove box and down the side to amp? I ask cause im getting engine interference
I used the driverā€™s side ground point on the floor next to the center console. Ran power wire down the driverā€™s side to a distribution block for power and ground. Iā€™m using the oem 7ā€ radio with the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 mounted under the driverā€™s side dash, RCAā€™s are ran down the middle.
 

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millerjl

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I used the driverā€™s side ground point on the floor next to the center console. Ran power wire down the driverā€™s side to a distribution block for power and ground. Iā€™m using the oem 7ā€ radio with the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 mounted under the driverā€™s side dash, RCAā€™s are ran down the middle.
how do you like the fosgate amp?
 

Gaust

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how do you like the fosgate amp?
The Fosgate DSR1 is a DSP unit, takes the stock audio signal, gives 8 rca outputs, has time alignment, 32 band EQ, level adjustment and more. The signal out of that goes to an 8 channel JL Audio amp wired for 6 speakers. Tweeters and midrange in the upper dash and mid bass in the lower dash. Iā€™m not using any rear speakers right now. A second amp powers my JL sub in the back. It sounds very good and will sound even better once I get a DSP microphone to tune it further. Over all Iā€™ve been very happy with everything. I do wish the DSP had 10 channels so I could run a 3 way speaker in front, rear fill speakers and subwoofer.
 

Kidcia

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I used the driverā€™s side ground point on the floor next to the center console. Ran power wire down the driverā€™s side to a distribution block for power and ground. Iā€™m using the oem 7ā€ radio with the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 mounted under the driverā€™s side dash, RCAā€™s are ran down the middle.
Im going to look for that ground. I may relocate my rcas aswell. I have one amp in the cargo are and one under my p/f seat. But the only one getting any interference is the one under my seat. Would kyou know the length from hu to amp for rca length? I have 2 17ft run but entirely too long
 

Gaust

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I donā€™t remember the length off the top of my head. If I had to guess from under the dash is about 6ā€˜ to 8ā€™. I left enough length to have them reach the radio if I ever replaced it with an aftermarket.
 

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I just couldnā€™t be happier with the night and day difference. Finally added the Metra JP-1014 6.5ā€ pods and Focal RCX-165 6.5ā€ speakers in the dash knees. I agree it was a bunch of work disassembling the dash, but so worth it. I also added Hushmat & polyfill inside the Pods. It sounds so much better. Think I will hold off on the PAC preamp and Amp upgrades for now. Might swap the 8ā€ sub for a 10ā€ next and see where it goes.

Thanks again for the motivation Kidcia. And the 7mm wrench suggestion was a big help on a couple of those tight spot screws you mentioned.
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Hey so coincidence, I already had those Focals laying around from a previous build. I had also ordered the metra pods. Went online tonight, and crutchfield was running a sale on those dash speakers for like $65, so I picked those up as well. I'll get it all installed this weekend or next week, I appreciate the recommendation. I'm going to really seal up those pods in hopes that I can pull a little tighter midbase from the system. In the future I want to do the heigh10 head unit swap and do a full build out, but if I can upgrade the current system for free (I had enough crutchfield rewars money to cover the 3.5s), why not do it? Did you notice more volume with these?
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