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40”JLURD

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You will definitely like your Dynatrac axles... I have the XD60/80 in a JK with motor swap.
Always great to hear good feedback on such an expensive upgrade! Thanks!!
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I liked them so much I am putting them in a TJ stretch build... could have done Dana, Currie or gone the build route, but Auburn Locker option, good clearance and 10% greater turning radius.... simple choice.
 
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I liked them so much I am putting them in a TJ stretch build... could have done Dana, Currie or gone the build route, but Auburn Locker option, good clearance and 10% greater turning radius.... simple choice.
Absolutely!!! This is the same place I’ve landed, with the better turning radius, lighter weight, etc it was a no brained for me after I had all the facts and did my research.
 
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Absolutely!!! This is the same place I’ve landed, with the better turning radius, lighter weight, etc it was a no brained for me after I had all the facts and did my research.
So I have switched horses mid stream...

Going with UD60’s now...

I really wanted the Dynatrac axles but recently my builder has been having a lot of reliability issues with them. For example on his own personal rig which has the exact axle set I was going to get he has put 7,000 miles on the axles and he has had to replace the rear axle seals FIVE TIMES.

He has also had similar axle issues on a couple customer rigs, and therefore stopped recommending them for those reasons. I would loose my mind if that happened to me. You pay 20 G’s for an axle set and the fucking things won’t even hold oil and you have to change axle seals every 1,400 miles. FUCK THAT

That being said reliability is my utmost priory (whole point of getting new axles) so I ended up just going with the UD60’s
 

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What do you think the weak link in this setup would be?

The RCV’s are guaranteed not to break with up to a 40” tire with a lifetime warranty.

My builder will also warranty the work if I buy them through him and handle any warranty claims. Although that still won’t help get me out the middle of a gnarly rock crawling trail with a broken axle and then all the way to his shop either.

With the 1 Piece RCV’s, Axle truss, C gussets, and FAD elimination what is the weak point that’s left?
Would you mind dropping me that builders info? I’ve got the same jeep in a 2020 and looking for advise about 40s on a DD diesel
 

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Would you mind dropping me that builders info? I’ve got the same jeep in a 2020 and looking for advise about 40s on a DD diesel
Absolutely. I can spare you the call if you wish as this was my exact axle dilemma. What is the best axle for a DD JL on 40’s which will go wheeling and really beat on it.

Dana UD60’s is what I ended up going with based on his brutal but honest real world review / experience with recent Dynatrac axles.

Call Dave at DCD Customs he is the owner and a boss in general and has lots of great Jeep advise. He custom builds about 50 a month according to himself lol. I will say every time I’ve been there - his lot is completely full with almost no parking left and shop is full of Jeeps too. It definitely feels like home when you’re there. Surrounded by lifted, beastly, totally tricked out Jeeps

Jeep Wrangler JL 2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build 7EF69D3D-DD49-432E-8A8B-DDDC67B5163B
 

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Absolutely. I can spare you the call if you wish as this was my exact axle dilemma. What is the best axle for a DD JL on 40’s which will go wheeling and really beat on it.

Dana UD60’s is what I ended up going with based on his brutal but honest real world review / experience with recent Dynatrac axles.

Call Dave at DCD Customs he is the owner and a boss in general and has lots of great Jeep advise. He custom builds about 50 a month according to himself lol. I will say every time I’ve been there - his lot is completely full with almost no parking left and shop is full of Jeeps too. It definitely feels like home when you’re there. Surrounded by lifted, beastly, totally tricked out Jeeps

Jeep Wrangler JL 2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build 7EF69D3D-DD49-432E-8A8B-DDDC67B5163B
Any idea what the 40s will do to mpg with the diesel? I know thats kind of a silly question. I'm picking up my new diesel tomorrow and i found a good deal on 40s about a month ago, so i bought them. Just not sure if i want to "40" the new dsl. Or put them on my 13 JK that is already geared and has an LT motor. I've heard the dsl handles 37s and 38s well without gearing.
 

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Absolutely. I can spare you the call if you wish as this was my exact axle dilemma. What is the best axle for a DD JL on 40’s which will go wheeling and really beat on it.

Dana UD60’s is what I ended up going with based on his brutal but honest real world review / experience with recent Dynatrac axles.

Call Dave at DCD Customs he is the owner and a boss in general and has lots of great Jeep advise. He custom builds about 50 a month according to himself lol. I will say every time I’ve been there - his lot is completely full with almost no parking left and shop is full of Jeeps too. It definitely feels like home when you’re there. Surrounded by lifted, beastly, totally tricked out Jeeps

Jeep Wrangler JL 2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build 7EF69D3D-DD49-432E-8A8B-DDDC67B5163B
David at DCD Customs is a solid guy who tells it to you straight.

I spent a day on the trail with him during Winter 4x4 Jamboree. I'd trust his opinion, as he has a wealth of real world experience.


-Steven
 
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Any idea what the 40s will do to mpg with the diesel? I know thats kind of a silly question. I'm picking up my new diesel tomorrow and i found a good deal on 40s about a month ago, so i bought them. Just not sure if i want to "40" the new dsl. Or put them on my 13 JK that is already geared and has an LT motor. I've heard the dsl handles 37s and 38s well without gearing.
You will want 4.88 gears. 4.56 is not quite enough for them. Some guys say it “drives fine” with 37’s/38’s on stock gears. I’m sure it does, I had an old YJ with the 4 cyl mouse motor that would max out on the highway at about 55mpg due to the 32” tires..... yes this was about 20 years ago lmfao. I’m sure it does “drive fine” compared to that. I still want to keep the stock power or better and mpg. Which should still be great with the 40’s

The biggest question you have to ask yourself is do you want or have the money to swap axles? If not then don’t go to 40’s

The stock axles will also max out at a 37/38” tire as far as what they can handle reliably. So there’s quite a steep point of diminishing returns to pay for everything from the driveshafts to the axles and wheels (prob around 20k extra in upgrades) just to go from 37/38 up 2” to 40’s. That last 2” is a killer.... on the bank account/wallet lol

ah well you know what Jeep stands for right?

J - Just
E - Empty
E - Every
P - Pocket
 
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Any idea what the 40s will do to mpg with the diesel? I know thats kind of a silly question. I'm picking up my new diesel tomorrow and i found a good deal on 40s about a month ago, so i bought them. Just not sure if i want to "40" the new dsl. Or put them on my 13 JK that is already geared and has an LT motor. I've heard the dsl handles 37s and 38s well without gearing.
And by the way I’m hoping with the gear change I will still be able to pull over 20mpg average.

I think there’s some other threads on this exact topic in here. Search around some more and you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for in regards to MPG projections.
 

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And by the way I’m hoping with the gear change I will still be able to pull over 20mpg average.

I think there’s some other threads on this exact topic in here. Search around some more and you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for in regards to MPG projections.
Thank you. I will likely just throw on the set of 35s i bought for my 2500 Cummins. I built a set of F350 axles for my 13 JK, but never installed them because is was still a DD. With the new jeep coming, it may juat be time to install the tons and go 40s there instead. Thx again.
 
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Thank you. I will likely just throw on the set of 35s i bought for my 2500 Cummins. I built a set of F350 axles for my 13 JK, but never installed them because is was still a DD. With the new jeep coming, it may juat be time to install the tons and go 40s there instead. Thx again.
Sounds like the best plan if you’re going to keep both and wheel the JK hard and Daily the JL.

The JL Axles will be super solid with 35’s, I wouldn’t do a thing to them unless you go bigger. I also wouldn’t re gear. If you ever go bigger re gear at that time to 4.56 for 37”/38” or 4.88 for 40”
 

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Well, keep in mind the PSC will run $3500+ but I agree...don't do the Redneck Ram.

Another axle option is buy a RuffStuff, Spidertrax or Diamond housing and build a 609. You can then pick your center section and a Tru-Hi 9 isn't that much more expensive than gearing/locking a D60 center section anyway.

http://www.diamondaxle.com/front_steering.htm

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/AxleHousings.html

http://www.spidertrax.com/Ultimate-Housing


Personally, I do my own gear installs...but I've seen some real hack jobs from local installers, enough that I'd probably go with the mail order drop in 3rd b/c you're more likely to get a properly set up gear set that way...which makes these build your own housings kind of nice.

If you go this route, it would be wise to build to a width that will use factory length inners and stubs so if you're in the middle of nowhere and break a shaft, you may be able to get a factory shaft for a replacement (if you're on a trip and break two axles, using up your spares).
FYI myself and three other guys in my club have been running redneck rams on our Jks with stock pumps and self ported steering boxes for eight years with no issues what so ever. 125,000 miles on mine and only changed the fluid (ATF+4) once. Also, several other guys have had issues with their PSC pumps taking shits. Those are good guys over at WTO to work with as well. PSC makes a nice system but very expensive. Just sayin
 
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FYI myself and three other guys in my club have been running redneck rams on our Jks with stock pumps and self ported steering boxes for eight years with no issues what so ever. 125,000 miles on mine and only changed the fluid (ATF+4) once. Also, several other guys have had issues with their PSC pumps taking shits. Those are good guys over at WTO to work with as well. PSC makes a nice system but very expensive. Just sayin
Well said, being reliable is the name of the game. No one wants their $3,000 steering pump to take a shit, especially while creepin over boulders in the middle of nowhere far from civilization...
 
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Wasn't bagging on them...just saying RNR said their kit would NOT fix death wobble. I personally don't see how it wouldn't...but they specifically have stated that a few times now regarding the JLs.

I do wonder why you chose to quote me over the OP since he's the one that brought it up and said more on the topic.
My JL has the new black steering box & ive luckily not encountered anything even remotely close to death wobble as of yet. Granted I’ve only put about 360 miles on it so far and I know some other members problems didn’t start for quite a few miles.

That being said I should have the coil overs, long arms, axles, steering in before I even break 500 miles on it. What say you about the RNR then - not as a fix for death wobble. As a fix for turning 40’s more easily in the rocks and on the road. That’s all I’m interested in.
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