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Reaching my breaking point... may consider trading my JLUR

Pig-Pen

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a tire(s) could be out of round. its been known happen. simplest thing would be to swap to all new wheels/tires. you can go on CL and just buy some JK wheels/tires in decent shape. if the current tires are the issue than even swapping to some other used ones will eliminate that issue. and if you still have the problem, you can check off wheels/tires from the list. i would get some used OEM wheels with decent tires on the. couple of hundred bucks and you can always resell them again.

anything oem that will fit.
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As you can probably imagine, Iā€™m not feeling adventurous after my current experience.
For sure, I get it. Just don't let yourself miss out on something cool in a class of vehicles that you really enjoy. Maybe give the Bronco a few months and see what initial owners are reporting, and then you can reevaluate.

For the time being, I don't know. It's a tough call. It would suck to force yourself into a vehicle like the 4Runner that you're really not into, maybe only to sell it at a loss not much later. Have you considered a Grand Cherokee, actually? Same family, can be had with good capability, has a better ownership record than wranglers. Something to consider.
 

JoeBelt

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I'm not an automotive mechanic, but I do have plenty of experience troubleshooting very complex systems, so don't take this as a troll throwing gasoline on the fire or adding negativity. It seems you've spent thousands of dollars swapping out numerous components from stock to aftermarket. Despite this you still have a death wobble issue significant enough that you consider it a safety issue.

It's going to be very difficult to diagnose and correct the problem, especially a dealer mechanic, when so many new variables have been introduced. In hindsight, if you suspected the tires where causing the death wobble, the quickest and most cost effective solution would be to move the tires to different corners of the vehicle. It's unlikely they'd all be out of spec, but you could even take it a step further and borrow/purchase new set of OEM wheels/tires. Also, the aftermarket steel armor (weight) and suspension components (wildcard) exacerbates the issue further. Half the fun of owning a Jeep is all the mods and accessories, but certainly not while you're trying to troubleshoot and resolve a serious suspension issue.

My suggestion is to return the Jeep to a completely stock state and troubleshoot one set of components at a time. Have the dealer and/or FCA validate stock specifications and work with them to potentially swap OEM for OEM under warranty. It's an incredibly basic setup and should be easy to troubleshoot as long as everything remains static until the culprit is found. Never make more than 1 change at a time. If it doesn't work - return to the previous state and try again.

Good luck.
 

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So you're saying the GVWR was limited soley by the aluminum knuckles?

If they are showing up on non-Mojaves and non-diesels....the stock must be depleted enough that the production changeover is already happening....

ive only seen them on diesel gladiators and Mojaveā€™s. Iā€™m not sure if that was the only limit before. Itā€™s also possible the diesel gladiators have some sort of frame reinforcement.
 

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I have not replaced control arm bolts. I have replaced track bar bolts. I have paint marked everything with thread checker. Not ruling out that the issue could relate to this. But based on what Iā€™m seeing, movement in the control arm mounting location does not appear to exist.
You may not see movement on the bolt locations, but the factory bolts are substantially smaller than most of the bushing sleeve bores. Most of the bushing sleeves are SAE and the bolts are fully threaded metric. This allows the control arm bushing to move around even if the bolt doesn't move. The surface area of the bushing sleeves is pretty small, so it takes a lot of pressure (bolt torque) to stop the bushing sleeve from moving with friction against the mounting bracket.
 

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Not meant to be triggering. But need to just reach out as a last hope, although Iā€™m not expecting any miracles.

I think Iā€™ve reached my breaking point. After 9 months of issues, Iā€™m legit contemplating other vehicle options. Sadly, my JLUR was my dream vehicle and there are not a lot of replacements. But I donā€™t think I have the energy to keep fighting my issues.

After 6 months and about 12k miles, I started having death wobble issues. Since, Iā€™ve replaced every steering and suspension component. Ive reaches out to many forum members for help. Iā€™ve contacted several industry experts via social media. Iā€™ve had the vehicle inspected 4 times locally. Iā€™ve had multiple alignments. Iā€™ve had the tires balanced 3 times. Ive checked the torque specs on every nut and bolt. Iā€™ve had the TSB performed, which helped but has not resolved wobbles. After each repair or change, Iā€™ve experienced a reprieve only for the death wobble to return a few weeks later. Itā€™s now 9 months later and an additional 13k miles.

the wife and I just returned from a 2500 mile trip. During that time, we experienced death wobble 7 times. The rest of the time, we drove in fear of every bump and bridge over pass. This was the first time the wife experienced it and now understands why I havenā€™t been letting her drive it. This is not normal.

I think Iā€™m done. Iā€™ve exhausted all of my resources. Iā€™ve spent around $4,000. Iā€™ve spent numerous hours under the vehicle and researching. I donā€™t have any new ideas and canā€™t keep doing this.

In addition, I have an oil leak somewhere that is burning on the drivers side exhaust manifold. Service department has looked at and denied to resolve. I may have them look at again. The smell is nauseating when the windows down and reminds me of my ā€˜90 YJ that leaked a quart of oil every 3k miles.

Also, on our trip, the Uconnect started rebooting randomly. First time itā€™s ever done that in 23k miles. No reason I can find but Iā€™ve heard of others having similar issues


In the future, what do I get to look forward to? Apparently my lockers can quit working at any point. Itā€™s likely Iā€™ll have corrosion issues around my hinges and aluminum doors. What else?

Iā€™m tired. Might start looking at stupid Toyota 4runners. Theyā€™re outdated and boring, but at least I can drive 70 on the interstate and not be in fear. Thatā€™s worth something.

2425326E-4BBD-4240-84C6-7E979294A36B.jpeg
Hi Mike, how much you want for it ? ......:)
 
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Halstem1

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You may not see movement on the bolt locations, but the factory bolts are substantially smaller than most of the bushing sleeve bores. Most of the bushing sleeves are SAE and the bolts are fully threaded metric. This allows the control arm bushing to move around even if the bolt doesn't move. The surface area of the bushing sleeves is pretty small, so it takes a lot of pressure (bolt torque) to stop the bushing sleeve from moving with friction against the mounting bracket.
I get what youā€™re saying. But bushing sleeves are held in place by pressure and not the actual bolt itself. If the bushing sleeve was moving, youā€™d be able to see friction marks on the inside of the control arm mounts, which there arenā€™t. The OE bushings have textures bushing sleeves that leave impressions when tightened to spec. They were definitely not moving in the mount. I get what youā€™re saying, but based on inspection and verification of torque spec and inconsistency of issue, I donā€™t believe this is the cause.

I suspected this maybe be the cause on the track bar bushing, but I canā€™t prove that is occurring there either.
 

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Haha. Today? $49k and itā€™s yours.
Sounds like youā€™ve checked all the boxes, and have gotten a lot of good advice here. If it was mine, I would replace the balljoints. I know you checked them, but that would still be my next move...... just my .02.....
 
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Halstem1

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I'm not an automotive mechanic, but I do have plenty of experience troubleshooting very complex systems, so don't take this as a troll throwing gasoline on the fire or adding negativity. It seems you've spent thousands of dollars swapping out numerous components from stock to aftermarket. Despite this you still have a death wobble issue significant enough that you consider it a safety issue.

It's going to be very difficult to diagnose and correct the problem, especially a dealer mechanic, when so many new variables have been introduced. In hindsight, if you suspected the tires where causing the death wobble, the quickest and most cost effective solution would be to move the tires to different corners of the vehicle. It's unlikely they'd all be out of spec, but you could even take it a step further and borrow/purchase new set of OEM wheels/tires. Also, the aftermarket steel armor (weight) and suspension components (wildcard) exacerbates the issue further. Half the fun of owning a Jeep is all the mods and accessories, but certainly not while you're trying to troubleshoot and resolve a serious suspension issue.

My suggestion is to return the Jeep to a completely stock state and troubleshoot one set of components at a time. Have the dealer and/or FCA validate stock specifications and work with them to potentially swap OEM for OEM under warranty. It's an incredibly basic setup and should be easy to troubleshoot as long as everything remains static until the culprit is found. Never make more than 1 change at a time. If it doesn't work - return to the previous state and try again.

Good luck.
Not disagreeing with you. But just some thoughts after reading.

I purchased the vehicle new with a Mopar lift and 37ā€™s already installed. Going to completely stock is impossible for me.

also, until semi recent (3k miles ago) the only other mods installed was a steer smarts drag link, tie rod, and track bar. All 3 items were installed correctly. There was zero movement in any of the bushings or tie rod ends. I donā€™t claim to be an engineer, but there is not a lot of complexity to a well built drag link, tie rod, or track bar. Someone would have to explain to me how the stock components would be better giving it did it with the stock components installed.

to be honest, Iā€™ll trade it before I try to return 100% to stock. Haha
 

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Halstem1

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Sounds like youā€™ve checked all the boxes, and have gotten a lot of good advice here. If it was mine, I would replace the balljoints. I know you checked them, but that would still be my next move...... just my .02.....
Thanks buddy. Youā€™ve been a lot of help in the process. Iā€™ll consider the ball joints.
 

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If the dealer sold you the Jeep with the lift and 37ā€ already installed, and they have tried to solve the issue to no avail, Iā€™d give them a chance to get you out of this JL and into a new one that is totally stock and drives well at minimum cost to you.

Nothing scares a dealer more than the prospect of losing a customer that has brought them tens of thousands of dollars in sales, parts and warranty work.

Just a thought.
 

JoeBelt

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Not disagreeing with you. But just some thoughts after reading.

I purchased the vehicle new with a Mopar lift and 37ā€™s already installed. Going to completely stock is impossible for me.

also, until semi recent (3k miles ago) the only other mods installed was a steer smarts drag link, tie rod, and track bar. All 3 items were installed correctly. There was zero movement in any of the bushings or tie rod ends. I donā€™t claim to be an engineer, but there is not a lot of complexity to a well built drag link, tie rod, or track bar. Someone would have to explain to me how the stock components would be better giving it did it with the stock components installed.

to be honest, Iā€™ll trade it before I try to return 100% to stock. Haha
Iā€™m an engineer. :)

Just taking a shot in the dark here, but Iā€™d bet a cold 6 pack the lift and 37s are to blame. If you could roll back (even temporarily) to 33s and no lift, you may find the issue is resolved. That would help someone knowledgeable identify the weak link.
 
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Halstem1

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Iā€™m an engineer. :)

Just taking a shot in the dark here, but Iā€™d bet a cold 6 pack the lift and 37s are to blame. If you could roll back (even temporarily) to 33s and no lift, you may find the issue is resolved. That would help someone knowledgeable identify the weak link.
The issue is resolved or the symptoms subside? Not the same thing.
 

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Not disagreeing with you. But just some thoughts after reading.

I purchased the vehicle new with a Mopar lift and 37ā€™s already installed. Going to completely stock is impossible for me.

also, until semi recent (3k miles ago) the only other mods installed was a steer smarts drag link, tie rod, and track bar. All 3 items were installed correctly. There was zero movement in any of the bushings or tie rod ends. I donā€™t claim to be an engineer, but there is not a lot of complexity to a well built drag link, tie rod, or track bar. Someone would have to explain to me how the stock components would be better giving it did it with the stock components installed.

to be honest, Iā€™ll trade it before I try to return 100% to stock. Haha
Have you explored lemon law? If the dealer sold it with the lift and 37s then there shouldn't be any questions about "mods." I know it varies from state to state, but seems if they have not been able to solve the problem over multiple attempts, that's exactly what lemon law is designed to remedy.
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