Control Arms - Metalcloak or Teraflex IR

[Headbarcode]

side question... how are you liking the MC track bar? I'm debating one for a couple reasons. for one, the clamps on the steer smarts yeti bar are contacting my FAD skid. Second, there is a slight bit of movement in the rubber yeti bushings and i continue to have death wobble crap.

It just got delivered this past Friday. I'll be swapping it this weekend. It is surprisingly stout. Feels as heavy as the SteerSmarts, but without the bulk.

I've found top dead center, or a pinch rearward, to be the most out of the way location for the yeti tb clamps. But if you've got any visible, or even felt, movement in your track bar bushing(s) it needs to be replaced. Every bout of death wobble is damaging for all associated parts. That includes the brand new ones, regardless of them being made heavier duty and of better materials.

Sponsored

 

[Halstem1]

It just got delivered this past Friday. I'll be swapping it this weekend. It is surprisingly stout. Feels as heavy as the SteerSmarts, but without the bulk.

I've found top dead center, or a pinch rearward, to be the most out of the way location for the yeti tb clamps. But if you've got any visible, or even felt, movement in your track bar bushing(s) it needs to be replaced. Every bout of death wobble is damaging for all associated parts. That includes the brand new ones, regardless of them being made heavier duty and of better materials.

Thanks. That helps. I REALLY like this yeti bar. But the rubber bushing just moves more than I’d like. Not sure it’s the cause but can’t help and can’t find the cause. Also not sure if the MC bushing is any better. I’ve replaced EVERYTHING except ball joints.

I have the clamp up like you. But as it cycles down it’s touching the MC fad skid. I didn’t have issue with the stock skid. It was tight but I made it work.

 

[Headbarcode]

Thanks. That helps. I REALLY like this yeti bar. But the rubber bushing just moves more than I’d like. Not sure it’s the cause but can’t help and can’t find the cause. Also not sure if the MC bushing is any better. I’ve replaced EVERYTHING except ball joints.

I have the clamp up like you. But as it cycles down it’s touching the MC fad skid. I didn’t have issue with the stock skid. It was tight but I made it work.

Did you have someone shaking the Jeep back and forth to find play in the track bar bushing, or is it that bad to not require the shaking? Just trying to form a mental picture.

A movement too small to see, but can be felt, is enough to cause wobble. If it can be seen, it's done.

Even if you know this, the next person along may not. Avoiding any possible pinch zones, use the pad of your thumb to bridge the gap between the ball joint housing and its mounting point. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth at a fluid moderate pace. Just enough to get the tires to move in both directions. You will feel a distinct click under your thumb, that otherwise wouldn't have been visually noticed. It's a little trick that is often unknown to DIYer's, but can help someone avoid overlooking the culprit simply because they couldn't see the problem.

If you've definitely got play in a track bar bushing, I'd put money on that being your problem. It's generally first in the line of usual suspects. Metalcloak might just be what the doctor ordered, which would address both the sloppy bushing and the clearance issue. I was pained at the thought of removing a SteerSmarts component, but just holding the Metalcloak replacement has alleviated my concerns of losing strength with the swap.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Is there any cutting needed for installing the mc arms? I saw something where there is a little cutting required for the front track bar. Do I need a jack to install control arms?

No cutting needed for control arms. A jack on the pinion is helpful is the measurements are different from stock to help hold and position the front axle. Best to do them on the ground with the weight on the suspension

brett

 

[rustyshakelford]

Glad to see so many folks are happy with their Mc arms and products. We work them them primarily for all the reasons listed here and more.

A couple things I’ve seen and wanted to touch on was the control arms are actually heavy wall tube. They aren’t solid because they don’t need to be. The tube is incredibly strong and provides everything needed without the extra weight. The joints are about as maintenance free as you can get and when it does come time to replace them, it’s a simple process that can be done with some snap ring pliers and a vice.

The RK arms are huge and beefy. If yeti made control arms they would be like these. That said, you have to cut or drill your lower control arm mount, and the rears are harder to tighten the jamb nut on. Also youll need a little extra back space in the wheels to prevent control arm rub. It was mentioned, the new joints don’t require the 000 grease so that’s a huge improvement but they do still require periodic greasing and cleaning.

brett

 

[Halstem1]

Did you have someone shaking the Jeep back and forth to find play in the track bar bushing, or is it that bad to not require the shaking? Just trying to form a mental picture.

A movement too small to see, but can be felt, is enough to cause wobble. If it can be seen, it's done.

Even if you know this, the next person along may not. Avoiding any possible pinch zones, use the pad of your thumb to bridge the gap between the ball joint housing and its mounting point. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth at a fluid moderate pace. Just enough to get the tires to move in both directions. You will feel a distinct click under your thumb, that otherwise wouldn't have been visually noticed. It's a little trick that is often unknown to DIYer's, but can help someone avoid overlooking the culprit simply because they couldn't see the problem.

If you've definitely got play in a track bar bushing, I'd put money on that being your problem. It's generally first in the line of usual suspects. Metalcloak might just be what the doctor ordered, which would address both the sloppy bushing and the clearance issue. I was pained at the thought of removing a SteerSmarts component, but just holding the Metalcloak replacement has alleviated my concerns of losing strength with the swap.

Mike, I sent you a PM but just because I'll post the video of the TB bushing here. Its totally off topic from control arms but I started the thread... so I guess its okay. haha



I can talk to you privately on the other details. I've already bothered many on the forum like Brett (rustyshakelford), Roky, and others. Stupid DW will be the end of me. Right now its toed way out to just make it driveable.

 

[Halstem1]

The RK arms are huge and beefy. If yeti made control arms they would be like these. That said, you have to cut or drill your lower control arm mount, and the rears are harder to tighten the jamb nut on. Also youll need a little extra back space in the wheels to prevent control arm rub. It was mentioned, the new joints don’t require the 000 grease so that’s a huge improvement but they do still require periodic greasing and cleaning.

brett

Agreed Brett. I haven't found a single person that has been disappointed with their MK stuff. You were the original person that steered me that direction and appears you aren't alone. Also, thanks for the clarification on the tuve verse solid bar.

Also, RK is quality stuff. But for all the reasons you just listed, they just the best fit for my use and setup. Added weight, modifying control arm mounts, extra backspacing.

 

[SmoothJeepOperator]

No cutting needed for control arms. A jack on the pinion is helpful is the measurements are different from stock to help hold and position the front axle. Best to do them on the ground with the weight on the suspension

brett

My driveway is on a a slope so i'm wondering if I did it without a jack in my driveway if I could get away with it. i'm sitting on a 2.5 RC spacer lift. Trying to upgrade bit by bit and thought I would start with all 8 control arms. Doing the whole thing at once with Springs and shocks might take all day (or more). I'm thinking if I buy bits and pieces I can knock out smaller installs a little at a time. Front control arms one week, rear another. Not sure what length i would go to, but i guess I want to avoid having to get an alignment at least for now.

 

[rustyshakelford]

My driveway is on a a slope so i'm wondering if I did it without a jack in my driveway if I could get away with it. i'm sitting on a 2.5 RC spacer lift. Trying to upgrade bit by bit and thought I would start with all 8 control arms. Doing the whole thing at once with Springs and shocks might take all day (or more). I'm thinking if I buy bits and pieces I can knock out smaller installs a little at a time. Front control arms one week, rear another. Not sure what length i would go to, but i guess I want to avoid having to get an alignment at least for now.

Id suggest some chocks at a minimum on the axle you’re working on but you’re not applying much pressure on the pinion to get the bolts lined up.

brett

 

[Headbarcode]

Glad to see so many folks are happy with their Mc arms and products. We work them them primarily for all the reasons listed here and more.

A couple things I’ve seen and wanted to touch on was the control arms are actually heavy wall tube. They aren’t solid because they don’t need to be. The tube is incredibly strong and provides everything needed without the extra weight. The joints are about as maintenance free as you can get and when it does come time to replace them, it’s a simple process that can be done with some snap ring pliers and a vice.

The RK arms are huge and beefy. If yeti made control arms they would be like these. That said, you have to cut or drill your lower control arm mount, and the rears are harder to tighten the jamb nut on. Also youll need a little extra back space in the wheels to prevent control arm rub. It was mentioned, the new joints don’t require the 000 grease so that’s a huge improvement but they do still require periodic greasing and cleaning.

brett

Brett, your an amazing guy that's both done and said so much to help the rest of us here. Thanks for that! I say this so you don't mistake me for arguing.

I was curious about your statement about solid bar and tubing. I recently took delivery of the Metalcloak front track bar, which felt way too heavy for its OD to be tubing. So I checked the product pages and learned that they use both solid bar and tubing throughout their product line.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Brett, your an amazing guy that's both done and said so much to help the rest of us here. Thanks for that! I say this so you don't mistake me for arguing.

I was curious about your statement about solid bar and tubing. I recently took delivery of the Metalcloak front track bar, which felt way too heavy for its OD to be tubing. So I checked the product pages and learned that they use both solid bar and tubing throughout their product line.

Appreciate it! Your screen shots nailed it, the track bars are solid, the control arms are tube. Both are ridiculously strong!

brett

 

[Agswin]

Good thread here. I was also on the fence about Trackbar/LCA's and pretty sure I will be going with MC for both.

Read somewhere tat Synergy is redesigning their Trackbars due to a clearance issue....is this accurate?

 

[Roky]

Good thread here. I was also on the fence about Trackbar/LCA's and pretty sure I will be going with MC for both.

Read somewhere tat Synergy is redesigning their Trackbars due to a clearance issue....is this accurate?

Yes

 

[hoag4147]

Yes

Da**. Wish I knew that a month ago. Bought and installed Synergy TB and now have to do some modifications to the axle bracket

 

[Agswin]

Really is a shame and the timeline keeps getting pushed back further and further. Heard great things about Synergy but the timeline changing now to the end of the year is giving me doubts on the rest of their product line and delivery

Sponsored