Synergy Jeep JL / JLU / JT Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace

[4xFUN]

That’s not a viable solution. Seems like a defect and Synergy should send you a replacement. Not too many people have a press sitting around in a garage. Also not sure why it would need to be lubed more than once or twice per year. I like the improvements to steering feel, but the aluminum steering brace will be removed if these types of problems occur.

That is the route I took...Installed, had issues with the bearing sub assembly before ever even driving, removed the bearing sub assembly, thought about how this really works and then removed the complete Synergy brace and sold it at half price. I took a close look at my factory trackbar bracket and welds looked excellent-probably did not need a brace for 35's but added the Rancho trackbar support brace (no bearing) and it fit perfectly. After install (used four new steering box bolts per FCA recommendations anytime steering gear bolts are removed) and torquing to specs, I could use just two fingers to slide the trackbar bolt through both sides of the Rancho bracket.

I would really love for a senior Jeep chassis engineer to chime in with his thoughts on an aftermarket sector shaft 'bearing support'...Including warranty concerns and any potential steering safety and or liability issues...

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[Hudson]

I installed the rear track bar relocation bracket and rear Synergy track bar. This time the install was less frustrating, but a few issues worth noting. Even though you don’t need both the relocation bracket and track bar (one or another will do) I read where using both helps firm up the rear and better control hopping that occurs on rutted roads.

The instructions claim you can do this without lifting the Jeep - don’t believe it. I struggled to get the rear bracket on because the coils were in the way. I took off the rear drivers side wheel and it made everything so much easier to fit the bracket, access the bolts, and tighten. Also, the longer bolts Synergy provides won’t fit unless you temporarily remove the driver’s side sway bar bracket that is in the way.

The rear setup is not commonly purchased alone, but is usually done with their Stage 1 kit that comes with the relocation bracket and also with sway bar shims, so the experience I had may be different if you are installing as part of the lift. I’m doing mine a little at a time , next up will be the coils, links, and lower front control arms.

Took it out for a quick drive, and while not as dramatic as the front sector shaft and front track bar upgrade, I did notice even more control and less rear skipping on some dirt roads.

The install has been less easy and simple than the online videos, but the product quality is great and the results are stellar. My wife and teen sons hated driving the Jeep when stock, but they took it out for a quick test and declared the steering problem “fixed.”

Lets hope the remainder of the lift is less of hassle.

 

[Hudson]

That is the route I took...Installed, had issues with the bearing sub assembly before ever even driving, removed the bearing sub assembly, thought about how this really works and then removed the complete Synergy brace and sold it at half price.

Dumb question - if the Rancho brace just eliminates the sector shaft bushing if the Synergy, why didn’t you just remove the bushing and use the OEM pitman arm nut and keep the Synergy? Then it would be just like the Rancho, right?

 

[4xFUN]

Dumb question - if the Rancho brace just eliminates the sector shaft bushing if the Synergy, why didn’t you just remove the bushing and use the OEM pitman arm nut and keep the Synergy? Then it would be just like the Rancho, right?

Not a dumb question at at all and that is what I first thought about, but just a little put-off by the whole experience and wanted to go a different direction...Plus the OCD in me did not like the idea of using only 'half' of what a product was intended for. And, if down the road any warranty issues arise with the steering gearbox, I did not want the Synergy brace to 'complicate' matters.

There are also differences in how the Rancho & Synergy mount to the frame. The Synergy has 'stand-offs' on frame side where it bolts to the gearbox while the Rancho is completely flat-which will distribute loading/stress over a larger area. You do have to make sure to remove any weld 'splatter' for a flush fit but should not grind any factory frame welds.

 

[Halstem1]

Not a dumb question at at all and that is what I first thought about, but just a little put-off by the whole experience and wanted to go a different direction...Plus the OCD in me did not like the idea of using only 'half' of what a product was intended for. And, if down the road any warranty issues arise with the steering gearbox, I did not want the Synergy brace to 'complicate' matters.

There are also differences in how the Rancho & Synergy mount to the frame. The Synergy has 'stand-offs' on frame side where it bolts to the gearbox while the Rancho is completely flat-which will distribute loading/stress over a larger area. You do have to make sure to remove any weld 'splatter' for a flush fit but should not grind any factory frame welds.

I wondered this too but that makes sense. I get it. I'm very similar. I decided if I end up removing the sector shaft, I may just cut the ears of the bracket so they don't protrude. I also thought if I can't figure out the greasing thing, I may just install the sector shaft when I offroad since that is the primary concern of breaking the shaft.

Can you explain a little more about the replacing the steering box bolts? Where you found that and any speculation why? Seems interesting but also not surprising.

 

[4xFUN]

I wondered this too but that makes sense. I get it. I'm very similar. I decided if I end up removing the sector shaft, I may just cut the ears of the bracket so they don't protrude. I also thought if I can't figure out the greasing thing, I may just install the sector shaft when I offroad since that is the primary concern of breaking the shaft.

Can you explain a little more about the replacing the steering box bolts? Where you found that and any speculation why? Seems interesting but also not surprising.

I read about replacing the steering box bolts as I was reading the FCA TSB on replacing / repairing the factory frame side trackbar mount. When I first removed the OEM trackbar at 1500 miles (only about 2000 miles on her now) I noticed the trackbar bushing on the frame side was badly skewed at an angle-I thought the bracket was misaligned. It turns out the OEM trackbar ends were misaligned, happy with that and the new Steer Smarts Yeti trackbar fits perfectly!

 

[Halstem1]

I read about replacing the steering box bolts as I was reading the FCA TSB on replacing / repairing the factory frame side trackbar mount. When I first removed the OEM trackbar at 1500 miles (only about 2000 miles on her now) I noticed the trackbar bushing on the frame side was badly skewed at an angle-I thought the bracket was misaligned. It turns out the OEM trackbar ends were misaligned, happy with that and the new Steer Smarts Yeti trackbar fits perfectly!

how does the construction of the yeti bushing compare to the stock? Its still rubber, right? Is it denser? bigger? Just curious.

 

[4xFUN]

how does the construction of the yeti bushing compare to the stock? Its still rubber, right? Is it denser? bigger? Just curious.

It is a beefier bushing than stock but is still rubber. Steer Smarts offers a 'pro' series trackbar with sleeved poly bushings. (You can also upgrade your existing Yeti trackbar with the poly bushings)
My only concern with these and why I did not order them was due to experiences with poly bushings years ago...I hate squeaks and my truck back then, with all new poly bushings sounded like a worn-out spring mattress on a honeymoon night

 

[DCBlake]

I wish i had read this before installing 2 weeks ago... Oh well time to tear it out and check... Nothing like getting items you have to question the quality... I mean the welds and everything else great but a simple brass fitting not set correct when delivered come on...

I wonder why they decided to change specs for the bearing between JK and the new JL as the JK has roller bearings...

https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-jeep-jk-sector-shaft-brace.html

I removed the sector brace and sure enough the grease hole was 180 degrees out... I pressed it out put it the correct location and reinstalled... I am thankful for this thread to where i went and double checked... Now it works much smoother than before but i shouldn't have to double check a brand new product like this from a well known company... I don't know that i will get any of their products going forward... If i do they will need fantastic reviews on any product i purchase from them...

 

[kimmonia]

Just read this thread as I've been thinking an affordable and effective way to improve handling feel. Given the headaches I've been reading about ... doesn't seem to be worth it. Especially if I have to re-grease part every 3000 miles if everything is perfect.

 

[Windshieldfarmer]

I removed the sector brace and sure enough the grease hole was 180 degrees out... I pressed it out put it the correct location and reinstalled... I am thankful for this thread to where i went and double checked... Now it works much smoother than before but i shouldn't have to double check a brand new product like this from a well known company... I don't know that i will get any of their products going forward... If i do they will need fantastic reviews on any product i purchase from them...

Question - did you need to loosen anything more than the Allen and hex bolt to remove/replace the sector brace for repressing. I have the same problem....grrrrr

 

[roaniecowpony]

This thread is making me nuts. I gotta go check now. I'll put the grease gun on it and see if I get squeeze-out at the bushing.

 

[kimmonia]

Are there any alternatives to Synergy’s solution?

 

[roaniecowpony]

Are there any alternatives to Synergy’s solution?

On my JLUR, it didn't have a noticeable effect. I'd guess it's more valuable on jeeps with 35s and up than on my stocker or may reduce wear on the steering box bearing. It may even prevent someone from cracking a steering box when banging around in the rocks.

 

[DCBlake]

Question - did you need to loosen anything more than the Allen and hex bolt to remove/replace the sector brace for repressing. I have the same problem....grrrrr

No except I loosened drag link to recenter wheel. When removing check bearing surface to ensure no scoring. I had taken it on a trip after installing and I had pre-packed bearing but still had clean up some of the surface the best I could. Again if the part were done correctly from Synergy I wouldn’t have to do this whole process and lack of trust on quality.

I had to jack up left side of Jeep high enough on left side to put jack stand under it in order to have enough room to access Allen. So nothing but those 2 things but in retrospect I wish I had removed the track bar again to double check pitman nut. you can’t get torque wrench in there unless it is dropped out of the way. Hindsight is a well u know. So on a weekend coming up will prob do this all over again so I can be sure it is all tight to specs. Again stating that I am ticked on having to do it all over as I was on a time crunch second time around I didn’t think it through.

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