DanW
Well-Known Member
Ahh yes, thank you!!!Nevermind, found it. Simply shift the fuse in fuse box
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Ahh yes, thank you!!!Nevermind, found it. Simply shift the fuse in fuse box
Nope, and I've jarred the hell out of it, including a trip to Moab. I'd check the male connector, first. There's a good chance that's where the problem lies.Anyone else running into issues using the rear cigarette power for the fridge. Mine is VERY touchie and it goes dead. Not sure yet if it's the fridge power connector or the power output??
they can be disassembled to mate to the ARB power outlet. sounds like a good thing to check.Nope, and I've jarred the hell out of it, including a trip to Moab. I'd check the male connector, first. There's a good chance that's where the problem lies.
I wouldn't. When I installed my ARB Power wire Kit I removed the panel to check and the wires going into that 12v plug are TINY. I wouldn't use it to run anything more than a LED light much less a fridge or compressor.they can be disassembled to mate to the ARB power outlet. sounds like a good thing to check.
The guy said he had an intermittent connection, suggested he check cable as it can be disassembled. Maybe it came loose. Agree If running an arb wire kit, may as well run new wires.I wouldn't. When I installed my ARB Power wire Kit I removed the panel to check and the wires going into that 12v plug are TINY. I wouldn't use it to run anything more than a LED light much less a fridge or compressor.
I was just using that outlet for a test just to see if the thing worked. it does now for some reason. I tried the fridge with two other vehicles and it worked in all of them. Put it back in the jeep and now it works there too....go figure.I wouldn't. When I installed my ARB Power wire Kit I removed the panel to check and the wires going into that 12v plug are TINY. I wouldn't use it to run anything more than a LED light much less a fridge or compressor.
8 ga would handle 40 amps. 6 ga would handle 50 amps. The typical cigarette lighter style power connectors are rated from 10-20 amps. 14 ga will handle 20 amps. These portable fridges draw from 2-4 amps at their maximum. Don't go overboard. And don't forget to fuse the circuit as near to the battery as practical.I was just using that outlet for a test just to see if the thing worked. it does now for some reason. I tried the fridge with two other vehicles and it worked in all of them. Put it back in the jeep and now it works there too....go figure.
I was going to run a 6 or 8 gauge wire direct to the battery. I need to check into that ARB power kit before doing so.
I've not noticed any issues running the Snomaster. You are right that they just don't draw much.8 ga would handle 40 amps. 6 ga would handle 50 amps. The typical cigarette lighter style power connectors are rated from 10-20 amps. 14 ga will handle 20 amps. These portable fridges draw from 2-4 amps at their maximum. Don't go overboard. And don't forget to fuse the circuit as near to the battery as practical.
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/actual-fridge-power-draws.204578/
Good to hear. I have a Jackery as well but haven’t had it out on the trails yet. Do you have a post showing what/how you have it mounted? Looks interesting and I love that platform you have!Well,
My test seems moot. Driving and stopping four times the fridge stayed at 25 degrees and the jackery stayed at 100%.
In my world it will only be powering the fridge from when I stop in afternoon/evening on the trail until 7am when we typically roll out. So I call it a success.
I simply made a rectangle out of aluminum with one hole for driver's side rear hardtop bolt. I supported with a block of wood with a rubber pad on it where it bottoms out to black factory trim. Painted black and bent the plate just a enough so when I tighten the bolt the block on bottom of plate snugs up to the trim above the power socket. You can barely make out the edge of plywood painted black.Good to hear. I have a Jackery as well but haven’t had it out on the trails yet. Do you have a post showing what/how you have it mounted? Looks interesting and I love that platform you have!
Great! Thanks for sharing that. Definitely a good, clean solution.I simply made a rectangle out of aluminum with one hole for driver's side rear hardtop bolt. I supported with a block of wood with a rubber pad on it where it bottoms out to black factory trim. Painted black and bent the plate just a enough so when I tighten the bolt the block on bottom of plate snugs up to the trim above the power socket. You can barely make out the edge of plywood painted black.
My rear cargo platform is all custom made as well. The back flips up to get to stow area in back of floor and the two panels remove from front section in 2 minutes if I want to fold either rear seat or both seats up. That way I can leave the fridge where I have it. Seems the best location for my uses. Allows full use of cargo area from back hatch or passenger door. Works for me, may not meet anyone elses needs but it's perfect for me.