Early Onset Death Wobble Help

[moodywizard]

Have you installed any longer or adjustable LCA's or drop down brackets yet?

I already have evo adj arms, all 8. Running 3.5 lift with 3/4 spacer for winch and bumper. I just received the drop down brackets as well, going to try those out if the joint play feels/looks good.

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[grandsrus]

I already have evo adj arms, all 8. Running 3.5 lift with 3/4 spacer for winch and bumper. I just received the drop down brackets as well, going to try those out if the joint play feels/looks good.

I have the same wobble on a stock JLUR. We getting close to a smoking gun?

 

[moodywizard]

I have the same wobble on a stock JLUR. We getting close to a smoking gun?

haha yeah PSC upgrade for free from jeep should be in order

 

[limeade]

I'm running a Synergy steering system (including track bar/sector shaft brace), RK 2.5" lift with Adventure front LCA's, and my steering is very good. I never really had much of a shimmy or wobble, but had the wandering and dead spot. So I'm curious to know why very similar steering setups are acting different.

Have no clue what my caster is as my LCA's aren't adjustable. But I set my toe to ⅛ inch toe in. My ball joints also are tight with no movement.

 

[grandsrus]

I'm running a Synergy steering system (including track bar/sector shaft brace), RK 2.5" lift with Adventure front LCA's, and my steering is very good. I never really had much of a shimmy or wobble, but had the wandering and dead spot. So I'm curious to know why very similar steering setups are acting different.

Have no clue what my caster is as my LCA's aren't adjustable. But I set my toe to ⅛ inch toe in. My ball joints also are tight with no movement.

What i have done so far:
-Dealer tightened AD steering box and now dead spot is gone
-Toe-in was 1/8" from factory
-Ball joint nuts were all tightened to spec at dealer. They were loose.
Next plans:
-I have mopar CAs to install
-Heard from local OR shops that the stock Drag Link does not last past 800 in most cases unless you have the new PN which could even go bad. Looking at Synergy DL.
-Have RK trackbar ready to install
-Run by dealer to pry and get the AE gearbox
-Possible Synergy Steering Brace kit

If all else fails, then get a new Recon? they seem to all be "fixed".

 

[limeade]

What i have done so far:
-Dealer tightened AD steering box and now dead spot is gone
-Toe-in was 1/8" from factory
-Ball joint nuts were all tightened to spec at dealer. They were loose.
Next plans:
-I have mopar CAs to install
-Heard from local OR shops that the stock Drag Link does not last past 800 in most cases unless you have the new PN which could even go bad. Looking at Synergy DL.
-Have RK trackbar ready to install
-Run by dealer to pry and get the AE gearbox
-Possible Synergy Steering Brace kit

If all else fails, then get a new Recon? they seem to all be "fixed".

I think you will see the biggest improvement with the install of the CA's and Track Bar.

After that, then I'd upgrade the tie rod, drag link, and sector shaft brace.

I've never had the dealer upgrade the steering box, don't feel like I need it anymore.

Yes, if you went with a new Recon, you'd possibly have better steering. But by upgrading the suspension and steering system on your current Jeep, you are making a very sound investment to the mods you have already done and will possibly do in the future.

On my TJ and now on my JL, I knew at the beginning I would be lifting, adding larger tires, etc. which makes steering upgrades necessary. Put the best parts you can afford on it now and it will keep you from having to replace inferior parts down the road.

 

[Headbarcode]

I replaced every steering and suspension component while installing a lift. Only part left on the shelf awaiting time for me to install it is the Synergy track bar/sector shaft brace. I developed a shimmy that escalated to full on wobble, leading me to not being able to hit the highway or go over 50 mph. Over and over, I checked torque on all new parts and anything in the peripheral. I played with caster all the way up to the point it would wobble at lower neighborhood speeds, than backed off to the happiest point. Had my poor little brother swaying the steering wheel back and forth until his arms were sore, and couldn't find any unwanted movement. After reading a post by one of the usual suspects here, who definitely knows his stuff, about larger tires liking less than factory toe-in, I decided to drop down from an 1/8 to a hair under 1/16. Well "f" me sideways, I'm back on the highway with nothing more than the slightest tiniest shimmy and bump steer when hitting the nastier bumps.

To those others like myself that have clumps of their own hair blowing around their driveway, try less toe-in.

I can't remember who it was that said a 1/16, but thank you so very much for sharing your wisdom!

 

[Halstem1]

I replaced every steering and suspension component while installing a lift. Only part left on the shelf awaiting time for me to install it is the Synergy track bar/sector shaft brace. I developed a shimmy that escalated to full on wobble, leading me to not being able to hit the highway or go over 50 mph. Over and over, I checked torque on all new parts and anything in the peripheral. I played with caster all the way up to the point it would wobble at lower neighborhood speeds, than backed off to the happiest point. Had my poor little brother swaying the steering wheel back and forth until his arms were sore, and couldn't find any unwanted movement. After reading a post by one of the usual suspects here, who definitely knows his stuff, about larger tires liking less than factory toe-in, I decided to drop down from an 1/8 to a hair under 1/16. Well "f" me sideways, I'm back on the highway with nothing more than the slightest tiniest shimmy and bump steer when hitting the nastier bumps.

To those others like myself that have clumps of their own hair blowing around their driveway, try less toe-in.

I can't remember who it was that said a 1/16, but thank you so very much for sharing your wisdom!

Did you just measure it yourself? I had an alignment and have to go back to dial in my caster. But their measurement is in degrees. Not sure how that converts. But I’ve been questioning if I needed to adjust toe with 37” tires. My wobble started when I swapped tie rods and had too much toe in.

 

[limeade]

Did you just measure it yourself? I had an alignment and have to go back to dial in my caster. But their measurement is in degrees. Not sure how that converts. But I’ve been questioning if I needed to adjust toe with 37” tires. My wobble started when I swapped tie rods and had too much toe in.

When you swapped tie rods and had too much toe in: Did you know due to having an alignment done afterwards? I would recommend checking toe anytime something is changed on the front suspension and steering systems.

You can easily do it yourself, I've done my own on TJ's, XJ's, and now my JL. They've always been right on and nearly as good (for Toe settings) as a shop can do (I don't have laser measuring devices.....)

 

[Halstem1]

When you swapped tie rods and had too much toe in: Did you know due to having an alignment done afterwards? I would recommend checking toe anytime something is changed on the front suspension and steering systems.

You can easily do it yourself, I've done my own on TJ's, XJ's, and now my JL. They've always been right on and nearly as good (for Toe settings) as a shop can do (I don't have laser measuring devices.....)

When I swapped tie rods, I originally measured myself. I was probably 1/4 toe in. I mistakenly thought it was “close enough” and was planning on getting an alignment. Had a really bad wobble incident before I could get an alignment. I adjusted out some and then had professionally done and they adjusted to 9 degrees in. I tried to have my wife help measure and I think it’s about 1/8” in but not the most accurate measurement. I think my original toe was closer to 1/16th. I was going to have alignment shop adjust my caster because someone told me that’s best done with a laser.

 

[limeade]

Doing your own alignment is super easy. I've attached the ORO U-Turn installation instructions which outline how to do it yourself (page 6). I found this years ago and began doing the alignments on my TJ, which is fundamentally the same as the JL.

The items you'll need are:

Two 4' long pieces of aluminum angle stock (bought mine at Lowes for about $5 each)
Two measuring tapes
Bungee cords to attach the aluminum stock to your wheels/tires

Follow the instructions and you'll be able to set your toe pretty easily. One thing to watch for is having the aluminum stock close enough to the center of the wheel, yet not high enough where the measuring tapes are distorted by the lower control arms.

In fact, right after my oil change this afternoon, my son and I rechecked the alignment and it was still at 1/16" (what we set it at after installing lift and steering upgrades).

 

[Roky]

When I swapped tie rods, I originally measured myself. I was probably 1/4 toe in. I mistakenly thought it was “close enough” and was planning on getting an alignment. Had a really bad wobble incident before I could get an alignment. I adjusted out some and then had professionally done and they adjusted to 9 degrees in. I tried to have my wife help measure and I think it’s about 1/8” in but not the most accurate measurement. I think my original toe was closer to 1/16th. I was going to have alignment shop adjust my caster because someone told me that’s best done with a laser.

I’m a plus one on doing your own alignment. Been doing it on all my Jeeps over the years. That’s a lot of money to set toe and straighten steering wheel, if you have fixed control arms, that’s basically all they can do.

@limeade gave a great description on how to do it. The only thing I get alignment for is my ocd likes to see my caster read out.You can do this at home too with a good angle finder.

The last lift I did I took it to a place that gave free alignment check and it was funny to see the look on the techs face when he got the read out and caster was in the red. 6.1 and 6.3..... “ sir your caster is all out of whack”. I said , yeah , sure is, it’s perfect, thanks. I later explained it to him.......

 

[grandsrus]

I replaced every steering and suspension component while installing a lift. Only part left on the shelf awaiting time for me to install it is the Synergy track bar/sector shaft brace. I developed a shimmy that escalated to full on wobble, leading me to not being able to hit the highway or go over 50 mph. Over and over, I checked torque on all new parts and anything in the peripheral. I played with caster all the way up to the point it would wobble at lower neighborhood speeds, than backed off to the happiest point. Had my poor little brother swaying the steering wheel back and forth until his arms were sore, and couldn't find any unwanted movement. After reading a post by one of the usual suspects here, who definitely knows his stuff, about larger tires liking less than factory toe-in, I decided to drop down from an 1/8 to a hair under 1/16. Well "f" me sideways, I'm back on the highway with nothing more than the slightest tiniest shimmy and bump steer when hitting the nastier bumps.

To those others like myself that have clumps of their own hair blowing around their driveway, try less toe-in.

I can't remember who it was that said a 1/16, but thank you so very much for sharing your wisdom!

Will do. Also i noticed some abnormal tire wear last night. Almost like a cupping issue. On the BFG KO every other tread is worn. Need to get this fixed or it is going to be expensive.

 

[Halstem1]

I’m a plus one on doing your own alignment. Been doing it on all my Jeeps over the years. That’s a lot of money to set toe and straighten steering wheel, if you have fixed control arms, that’s basically all they can do.

@limeade gave a great description on how to do it. The only thing I get alignment for is my ocd likes to see my caster read out.You can do this at home too with a good angle finder.

The last lift I did I took it to a place that gave free alignment check and it was funny to see the look on the techs face when he got the read out and caster was in the red. 6.1 and 6.3..... “ sir your caster is all out of whack”. I said , yeah , sure is, it’s perfect, thanks. I later explained it to him.......

LImeade's attachment on toe setting is helpful. I'll get some aluminum and see if I can dial that in a little more. Funny you say that about alignment shops though because i've been dragging my feet to get my caster checked after installing my lower control arms. I have an angle finder and I know I'm relatively equal side to side. But actually getting it to 6.0 degrees or so is harder. I would assume the angle of your surface (garage floor) calculates into that. I hate to pay 80$ for the shop to give a couple of turns on the double adjuster. And then when I get home I always have to check the specs on the pinch bolts because last time they left those loose.

 

[Headbarcode]

Did you just measure it yourself? I had an alignment and have to go back to dial in my caster. But their measurement is in degrees. Not sure how that converts. But I’ve been questioning if I needed to adjust toe with 37” tires. My wobble started when I swapped tie rods and had too much toe in.

Yes, I always do my own wrenching. And I also measured in degrees. I'm currently at a pinch over 6.5° and 3/64" combined toe-in. The caster removed the wander and helped with tracking straight. It also gave it a more planted feel at all speeds. The reduced toe-in eliminated the wobble, greatly minimized the shimmy, and increased that planted feel.

Was your alignment done before the 37's? If so, the larger diameter has increased toe-in. If not, maybe they went with factory specs, which may be a bit shy of what your jeep needs.

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