mikej
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Mike
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- Jun 30, 2018
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- SF Bay, California
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- 2018 JLUR
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I spent this afternoon installing a GMRS radio mount and running the antenna cable (and power) to under the passenger seat. I've seen bits and pieces of this on the forum, but I thought I'd make a threat that shows end-to-end how to do it in hopes it might be helpful for others.
Ingredients:
Topsy JL Fender Mount NMO Antenna Bracket
Midland MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable
Midland MXTA26 6dB gain whip antenna
Midland MXT275 Micromobile two-way radio
Zip ties, zip tie anchors, one electrical butt connector, one electoral ring connector, spray paint
Pre-work: paint the antenna bracket so you don't have that shiny metal glinting out from your fender. Bonus points if you use touch-up paint to have it match your Jeep (I may go back and do this later, but I just used black matte spray paint I had laying around).
Take off your door driver door, this will make your life easier. You'll also want to drop your windshield (I did this with my hood open). It also turns out that the UHF connector on the cable is removable. I didn't, but it would make life easier to remove the connector, which means a smaller bit of cable to route. Only as I was writing this post did I realize this was an option.
Step 1: Install the Topsy antenna bracket per their instructions and thread the NMO end of the antenna cable through it. If you're anal, add a zip tie and an anchor.
Step 2: Remove the driver side cowl, route the cable and add another anchor.
Step 3: Pop the little plugs off of this foam piece that's under the windshield (this is why you dropped it).
Step 4: Tug on the rubber bit to create a gap. Don't tug too hard, as there's some adhesive that would cause the foam to rip. Push the UHF connector end of the cable through the gap.
Step 5: Pop off this little panel.
Step 6: And route the cable down alongside the dash. Give it a push here and there to hide it.
Step 7: Route the cable behind cables to get it under the dash. Remove the panel under the steering wheel (just pull on it and it will pop free) to make the routing easier. Add a zip tie to hold the cable in place.
Step 8: Route the cable along the metal bar above the driver side foot-box. Add zip ties to hold in place.
Step 9: Route the cable behind the center stack. If you pull the carpet back a little bit, you'll find a nice passageway (This is from the passenger side after I routed the table through).
Step 10: Using the wrapped wire bundle already there as a guide, loosely zip tie the antenna cable along the base of the passenger footwell.
Step 11: Cut the power adapter off the power cable that comes with the MXT275:
Step 12: Remove the plastic panel in the passenger footwell. Since I have the AUX switches, there's a nice ignition switched power source. I used a butt connector to attach the red wire for the radio and put a ring connector on the black wire. That ring connector goes to the bottom bolt in this picture:
Step 13: Remove the bolts from this grey plastic that is at the base of the passenger door opening. You don't have to remove the thing entirely (I couldn't quite figure out how), but with some effort you can run power and antenna through it.
Step 14: Route the wires through this opening next to the passenger seat:
Step 15: With a little effort, you can route the wires under the carpet and out the opening for the under seat vents:
Step 16: Pop the panel back in place and you'll see no wires:
From here, it's just a matter of plugging in the radio. I'm saving that for another day, but it's all plug and play at this point. If you've gotten this far, you've done all of the hard work.
Ingredients:
Topsy JL Fender Mount NMO Antenna Bracket
Midland MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable
Midland MXTA26 6dB gain whip antenna
Midland MXT275 Micromobile two-way radio
Zip ties, zip tie anchors, one electrical butt connector, one electoral ring connector, spray paint
Pre-work: paint the antenna bracket so you don't have that shiny metal glinting out from your fender. Bonus points if you use touch-up paint to have it match your Jeep (I may go back and do this later, but I just used black matte spray paint I had laying around).
Take off your door driver door, this will make your life easier. You'll also want to drop your windshield (I did this with my hood open). It also turns out that the UHF connector on the cable is removable. I didn't, but it would make life easier to remove the connector, which means a smaller bit of cable to route. Only as I was writing this post did I realize this was an option.
Step 1: Install the Topsy antenna bracket per their instructions and thread the NMO end of the antenna cable through it. If you're anal, add a zip tie and an anchor.
Step 2: Remove the driver side cowl, route the cable and add another anchor.
Step 3: Pop the little plugs off of this foam piece that's under the windshield (this is why you dropped it).
Step 4: Tug on the rubber bit to create a gap. Don't tug too hard, as there's some adhesive that would cause the foam to rip. Push the UHF connector end of the cable through the gap.
Step 5: Pop off this little panel.
Step 6: And route the cable down alongside the dash. Give it a push here and there to hide it.
Step 7: Route the cable behind cables to get it under the dash. Remove the panel under the steering wheel (just pull on it and it will pop free) to make the routing easier. Add a zip tie to hold the cable in place.
Step 8: Route the cable along the metal bar above the driver side foot-box. Add zip ties to hold in place.
Step 9: Route the cable behind the center stack. If you pull the carpet back a little bit, you'll find a nice passageway (This is from the passenger side after I routed the table through).
Step 10: Using the wrapped wire bundle already there as a guide, loosely zip tie the antenna cable along the base of the passenger footwell.
Step 11: Cut the power adapter off the power cable that comes with the MXT275:
Step 12: Remove the plastic panel in the passenger footwell. Since I have the AUX switches, there's a nice ignition switched power source. I used a butt connector to attach the red wire for the radio and put a ring connector on the black wire. That ring connector goes to the bottom bolt in this picture:
Step 13: Remove the bolts from this grey plastic that is at the base of the passenger door opening. You don't have to remove the thing entirely (I couldn't quite figure out how), but with some effort you can run power and antenna through it.
Step 14: Route the wires through this opening next to the passenger seat:
Step 15: With a little effort, you can route the wires under the carpet and out the opening for the under seat vents:
Step 16: Pop the panel back in place and you'll see no wires:
From here, it's just a matter of plugging in the radio. I'm saving that for another day, but it's all plug and play at this point. If you've gotten this far, you've done all of the hard work.
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