Ultimate no-lift goal

[Foggy47]

I mounted 35" Nitto Ridge Grapplers and wheels with offset to my stock suspension JLUR. Been on a few trails here in AZ....and while I am not looking for the ultimate rock crawling tests......so far I am happy with what I got. I do need some skids under.....and still consider a modest lift. Time will tell. My wife does not want more lift......and I feel pretty capable

as it stands now.

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[McCoys]

I'm on the same page as many of you here with the no lift. I think 33 inch tires are plenty capable for a mix of light-offroading/camping and daily driver. However, ideally I prefer 255R85/16 tires which won't fit on the JL due to brake rotor and caliper size. This means I will need to downsize on rotor size and upgrade calipers and overall hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder which also means an entire brake swap. Currently, I have ARB front and rear bumpers with a half cage rack up top, westin rock sliders and will get to a lightbar shortly. Accessory load alone is already +/- 400lbs but I have a JLU with a payload of 1200+ lbs. There is a bit of sag so i installed teraflex 1.5inch performance spacers on factory springs and shocks. My plan is to replace the OE suspension with Old Man Emus around the 4 year mark or whenever I change my first set of tires.

I think i have this plan down. Any input is much appreciated.

 

[Dkretden]

Some updates to my build.

I have installed 315 KO2, and swap the stock shocks with Falcon. I don't know if it is placebo, but now my Jeep really planted on the ground. Falcon shocks and steering stabilizer make the JL very responsive, so I found I drove much faster than before. The new shocks also help the nose diving and body roll.

The MPG is not affected, I think the Rubicon 4.10 gears handle 315 KO2 very well, since it is like a 33.5 tire and weight pretty much the same as stock tires.

The wider and taller tires with no lift, really makes an aggressive stance.

OP,

purposely bumping your post from a year ago as I would like an update on your build........

I too don’t want to lift as my use will be a daily driver and a lot of freeways with only mild trails..... very mild trails.... I absolutely don’t need anything but the 33s that I have now but I like the look of 35s (315, actually)

after a year, what has been your experience? On road? Off road? Thoughts or regrets? Looking forward to hearing and update!

 

[Jamrock]

So this is going to be a non-popular build, as I am trying to achieve a goal: build a premium on-road daily driver with some degrees of off-road performance. One thing I really like is the stock geometry of JLUR. I am not a big fan of monster truck-ish build, and unfortunately, I am a minority in the Jeep community. As I am talking to my local offroad shop, they even laugh at me like why do you even buy a Wrangler if you are not going to lift.

Well to each of its own, I just like the way Rubicon comes with almost 1" lift and 33. Remember in the JK days, 33 is actually considered a large tire, and now for JL 35 is the new 33, and 37 is the new 35. So I am pretty sure the next iteration of Wrangler Rubicon will come with 35 standard, well, if EPA has not completely neutered it.

You would be surprised how many people agree with you. Kunes Country Auto Group calls your configuration a "low center of gravity build". You will notice the after market fender flares which allow for more space between the fender and the tire.







Extreme Terrrain has a nice video on using 35 tires on a non-lifted JL

 

[jeepingib]

For my 2dr sport JK I used the springs and shocks from the 2013 10th Anniversary Rubicon which came with the tallest JK springs. This allowed me to easily fit 35's and still rode quite nicely. Going from the shortest JK springs to the tallest gained quite a bit of lift, I'd estimate around 3 inches. This should be the same with the JL. If I still had a 2dr I would have done the same thing. With the 4 door and wheeling it stock for over a year at places like, Hot Springs, Hidden Falls, and Wolf Caves, I decided that I would have to do a little bit more lift. I've been dragging the belly like crazy.

 

[Jamrock]

I wouldn't climb over rocks without a lift and maybe some 37s.

 

[emoody007]

I think the ultimate goal would be to get the largest tire with the least amount of lift and still keep as much articulation as possible. When off road you axle clearance and axle clearance doesn't come from a lift it comes from tire size. and even though these vehicles are made for off road I think on road performance, reliability and safety should come first. My other goal is to build up something that is practical but functional and retains a OEM or Mopar looking build. I don't want to "Mad Max" this thing out. I like the way the Rubicon looks from the factory and the looks of the Mopar show Jeeps.
I may eventually do a lift but here is my current thought process and ya'll can tell me what you think....
I would like to eventually put 37" tires on and here is how I plan on doing it.
Phase 1.... I'm doing mostly performance upgrades... Things you can't really see. I want to get the most out of the 2.0 engine so I don't feel sluggish when adding bigger tires and other components. Currently running Mishimoto Catch can, Intake and Intercooler pipe with a GFB DV+ diverter valve, JB4 piggyback tuner, HikeIt throttle controller and the DynoMax exhaust delete.. All installed and complete.
Phase 2... Since I don't want to waste my factory 33" tires, I plan on waiting until I need new tires. This will give me time to buy and install all new steering components. Looking to go with all steersmarts products. I also recently got the Synergy Sector Shaft brace. The idea is to have the steering on point and adjustable before adding other stuff. In other words a proactive instead of reactive build. I'm also adding Synergy 1.75" wheel spacers. I know that's a hot topic of debate but I like my factory upgraded rims and the spacers will allow me to clear larger/wider tires. Done correctly I don't feel that I'm sacrificing safety or performance... again debatable.
Phase 3... Do a fender chop. The AAL fender chop bracket with LED's looks good and keeps the factory style fenders and gives a extra 1.5" of clearance give or take.
Phase 4... I'm looking at the Rock Krawler 1.5" budget boost which are essentially coil spacers. I've never been a fan of this type of lift but I like the factory coils and ride and these give me that extra 1.5" without drastic changes to the geometry and minimal loss to articulation. If needed, I'll look into longer bump stops and shock extensions. I may also look into better shocks as well but for now I like the factory ride.

So the Rubicon can go from 33's to 35's with little or no rubbing depending on the tire. I was calculating the 37's as being 4 inches bigger which requires 2 additional inches of clearance. With the AAL fender chop and the Rock Krawler budget boost I should have about 3 inches available to go from 33" to 37" which would technically give me 1 full extra inch of clearance. After all this is done I'll look into re-gearing depending on it's performance. Also if needed I'll look into Lower Control Arms depending on what my caster looks like.

I think this setup will be the happy median between getting 37" tires that aren't stuffed but still keeping a lower center of gravity that you lose from an extremely lifted vehicle.

 

[Aenima]

Just dropped in to say love, love, love the idea of no-lift or low-lift builds. Two things will kill a Jeep build - lift and weight. Avoiding both, or at least extremes of both, means you're going to have a great wheeling, great driving, durable build.

Ask me how I know...

 

[Toycrusher]

To reiterate, 37" KO2 fit fine on stock Rubicon with only minor rubbing under extreme flex. No heavy bumpers

 

[MarkY3130]

I think the ultimate goal would be to get the largest tire with the least amount of lift and still keep as much articulation as possible. When off road you axle clearance and axle clearance doesn't come from a lift it comes from tire size. and even though these vehicles are made for off road I think on road performance, reliability and safety should come first. My other goal is to build up something that is practical but functional and retains a OEM or Mopar looking build. I don't want to "Mad Max" this thing out. I like the way the Rubicon looks from the factory and the looks of the Mopar show Jeeps.
I may eventually do a lift but here is my current thought process and ya'll can tell me what you think....
I would like to eventually put 37" tires on and here is how I plan on doing it.
Phase 1.... I'm doing mostly performance upgrades... Things you can't really see. I want to get the most out of the 2.0 engine so I don't feel sluggish when adding bigger tires and other components. Currently running Mishimoto Catch can, Intake and Intercooler pipe with a GFB DV+ diverter valve, JB4 piggyback tuner, HikeIt throttle controller and the DynoMax exhaust delete.. All installed and complete.
Phase 2... Since I don't want to waste my factory 33" tires, I plan on waiting until I need new tires. This will give me time to buy and install all new steering components. Looking to go with all steersmarts products. I also recently got the Synergy Sector Shaft brace. The idea is to have the steering on point and adjustable before adding other stuff. In other words a proactive instead of reactive build. I'm also adding Synergy 1.75" wheel spacers. I know that's a hot topic of debate but I like my factory upgraded rims and the spacers will allow me to clear larger/wider tires. Done correctly I don't feel that I'm sacrificing safety or performance... again debatable.
Phase 3... Do a fender chop. The AAL fender chop bracket with LED's looks good and keeps the factory style fenders and gives a extra 1.5" of clearance give or take.
Phase 4... I'm looking at the Rock Krawler 1.5" budget boost which are essentially coil spacers. I've never been a fan of this type of lift but I like the factory coils and ride and these give me that extra 1.5" without drastic changes to the geometry and minimal loss to articulation. If needed, I'll look into longer bump stops and shock extensions. I may also look into better shocks as well but for now I like the factory ride.

So the Rubicon can go from 33's to 35's with little or no rubbing depending on the tire. I was calculating the 37's as being 4 inches bigger which requires 2 additional inches of clearance. With the AAL fender chop and the Rock Krawler budget boost I should have about 3 inches available to go from 33" to 37" which would technically give me 1 full extra inch of clearance. After all this is done I'll look into re-gearing depending on it's performance. Also if needed I'll look into Lower Control Arms depending on what my caster looks like.

I think this setup will be the happy median between getting 37" tires that aren't stuffed but still keeping a lower center of gravity that you lose from an extremely lifted vehicle.

Everyone’s use case is different and each persons build should match their use case.

Just pointing out that there is more to off-roading than axle clearance. Break over, approach, and departure angles for example.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

OP,

purposely bumping your post from a year ago as I would like an update on your build........

I too don’t want to lift as my use will be a daily driver and a lot of freeways with only mild trails..... very mild trails.... I absolutely don’t need anything but the 33s that I have now but I like the look of 35s (315, actually)

after a year, what has been your experience? On road? Off road? Thoughts or regrets? Looking forward to hearing and update!

I have 35" on my JLUR and no lift. I think it's more about smart wheeling and skid plates will get you a long way. Since I do not run a spare tire I have been debating on running a 1" spacer in the front to level it out but haven't done it yet.

 

[Adamoni]

You would be surprised how many people agree with you. Kunes Country Auto Group calls your configuration a "low center of gravity build". You will notice the after market fender flares which allow for more space between the fender and the tire.







Extreme Terrrain has a nice video on using 35 tires on a non-lifted JL

Thanks for posting these. I’m liking LCG (Low Center if Gravity) builds.

 

[emoody007]

Everyone’s use case is different and each persons build should match their use case.

Just pointing out that there is more to off-roading than axle clearance. Break over, approach, and departure angles for example.

100% agree. I've done several builds. And I probably didn't word that well.... but axle clearance is probably the most beneficial and affects all of the above to a certain degree. I have the advantage of a 2 door when it comes to break over, but someone with a JLU may want to add some lift to get the frame up a little higher depending on their case use. i.e extreme rock crawling. same thing with approach and departure. Larger tires will help but so does lift as well. And like you said depending on case use, one may want to look at smaller bumpers or running a stretched long arm kit. But at the end of the day getting the axles further off the ground with larger tires will help with all of the above.

 

[Jamrock]

Thanks for posting these. I’m liking LCG (Low Center if Gravity) builds.

You are welcome.

I like the look of a lifted Jeep. If I were climbing over rocks on the weekends, I would definitely head in that direction. LCG builds are really nice for a daily driver.

A set of Rubicon suspension parts on a Sport or Sahara should be enough to eliminate any rubbing.

 

[Toycrusher]

You are welcome.

I like the look of a lifted Jeep. If I were climbing over rocks on the weekends, I would definitely head in that direction. LCG builds are really nice for a daily driver.

A set of Rubicon suspension parts on a Sport or Sahara should be enough to eliminate any rubbing.

Center of gravity is everything in stability and performance. Monster trucks don't have much more belly clearance than a regular superduty. The best performing RC vehicles are stupid low and stupid wide. There is an acceptable range of height-to-width before things get sketchy

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