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Clutch Recall (FCA W12 | 20V-124) on 2018-2020 JL Manuals [overheating clutch pressure plate]

Toycrusher

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After multiple calls, FCA and it's dealers will neither admit nor deny whether or not the vehicle is "safe" to drive. It's clear it's not safe enough to use to permit any new ones to be sold and placed into use, but they aren't sure about existing ones already on the road...
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CID990

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This is not something I wanted to read a day before having a 1500 mile journey to get back home...
 

N75

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Before anyone goes buying an aftermarket clutch, are we sure it’s actually a defect with the pressure plate or DMF? I would expect similarly explosive results if something blew inside the trans and stopped the input shaft from spinning suddenly.
 

Rogues Gambit

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Before anyone goes buying an aftermarket clutch, are we sure it’s actually a defect with the pressure plate or DMF? I would expect similarly explosive results if something blew inside the trans and stopped the input shaft from spinning suddenly.
Thank you, been meaning to ask but would of felt stupid to ask
 

Kapoosh1

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After multiple calls, FCA and it's dealers will neither admit nor deny whether or not the vehicle is "safe" to drive. It's clear it's not safe enough to use to permit any new ones to be sold and placed into use, but they aren't sure about existing ones already on the road...
I think it's pretty clear it's not safe. They just don't want to cover loaner cars for 30K+ people for 5+ weeks.

I have 18K trouble free miles on my 6 speed but I still won't risk driving with my kids in it until it's fixed. Sure, I can likely jump out if something were to happen but who knows if I can unbuckle 3 kids and get them out in time.

Thankfully I other cars to drive in the meantime.
 

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Turchman

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They already know the problem and the fix. This is most likely a supplier issue related to the pressure plate and they were watching the statistics until it hit a percentage where the potential cost of claims exceeded the cost to recall. Fairly simple math.
 

nunziotocci

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Before anyone goes buying an aftermarket clutch, are we sure it’s actually a defect with the pressure plate or DMF? I would expect similarly explosive results if something blew inside the trans and stopped the input shaft from spinning suddenly.
DISCLAIMER: I am not a mechanic, I am a software engineer. I also haven't spoken to any Jeep/FCA reps about this (and won't until I can schedule an appointment).

I have a theory that the cause is the "fake shifting" that the computer does. I don't know what the actual name is, but this is what I call it when the computer pulls out the clutch to let the engine rev and then puts in back in. When an automatic does this, it usually shifts down at the same time, hence "fake shift".

The reason I suspect this is that occasionally I get a grinding noise when it does this. I think this is causing the clutch plate to get smoother over time until a catastrophic failure to engage causes too much scraping/heat and you get either broken bits or molten metal flying at your transmission housing. In one of the linked story threads ("Fire as a result of transmission failure"), he said that the fire started going at ~30mph in third gear and then started going up an incline. This is about the conditions that I get these "fake shifts".

The repair for this would entail everybody getting a new clutch because, as said earlier, it is probably difficult to tell by looking at it if it is not needed. The fix going forward will likely by the removal of "fake shifting" from the software.

Until I have the fix performed, I am going to be driving like a gentleman and refraining from driving people who need help getting out.

UPDATE 02/13/2020: My Jeep is in the shop waiting on a new clutch. Apparently I was too stupid to realize my clutch was slipping. Thanks to everybody who pointed this out.
 
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Rogues Gambit

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DISCLAIMER: I am not a mechanic, I am a software engineer. I also haven't spoken to any Jeep/FCA reps about this (and won't until I can schedule an appointment).

I have a theory that the cause is the "fake shifting" that the computer does. I don't know what the actual name is, but this is what I call it when the computer pulls out the clutch to let the engine rev and then puts in back in. When an automatic does this, it usually shifts down at the same time, hence "fake shift".

The reason I suspect this is that occasionally I get a grinding noise when it does this. I think this is causing the clutch plate to get smoother over time until a catastrophic failure to engage causes too much scraping/heat and you get either broken bits or molten metal flying at your transmission housing. In one of the linked story threads ("Fire as a result of transmission failure"), he said that the fire started going at ~30mph in third gear and then started going up an incline. This is about the conditions that I get these "fake shifts".

The repair for this would entail everybody getting a new clutch because, as said earlier, it is probably difficult to tell by looking at it if it is not needed. The fix going forward will likely by the removal of "fake shifting" from the software.

Until I have the fix performed, I am going to be driving like a gentleman and refraining from driving people who need help getting out.
Tuners everywhere will now target the ECU that's causing the fake shifts
 

nunziotocci

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DISCLAIMER: I am not a mechanic, I am a software engineer. I also haven't spoken to any Jeep/FCA reps about this (and won't until I can schedule an appointment).

I have a theory that the cause is the "fake shifting" that the computer does. I don't know what the actual name is, but this is what I call it when the computer pulls out the clutch to let the engine rev and then puts in back in. When an automatic does this, it usually shifts down at the same time, hence "fake shift".

The reason I suspect this is that occasionally I get a grinding noise when it does this. I think this is causing the clutch plate to get smoother over time until a catastrophic failure to engage causes too much scraping/heat and you get either broken bits or molten metal flying at your transmission housing. In one of the linked story threads ("Fire as a result of transmission failure"), he said that the fire started going at ~30mph in third gear and then started going up an incline. This is about the conditions that I get these "fake shifts".

The repair for this would entail everybody getting a new clutch because, as said earlier, it is probably difficult to tell by looking at it if it is not needed. The fix going forward will likely by the removal of "fake shifting" from the software.

Until I have the fix performed, I am going to be driving like a gentleman and refraining from driving people who need help getting out.
I would also like to point out that I only noticed the "fake shift" feature after I started getting the grinding noise about a month ago. It definitely wears more than it should. Calm driving seems to prevent the grinding noise, so let's hope that lasts until the fix is in.

Edit: For further context, I've had my Jeep for almost a year and have about 11K miles on it. I probably wore the clutch out faster than others because I was coming from driving my parent's auto and was still learning for about a month. It's a 2018 MY but I don't have the build date handy.
 

LABLUE

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All recalls are safety related.
 

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Jeep-Noob

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DISCLAIMER: I am not a mechanic, I am a software engineer. I also haven't spoken to any Jeep/FCA reps about this (and won't until I can schedule an appointment).

I have a theory that the cause is the "fake shifting" that the computer does. I don't know what the actual name is, but this is what I call it when the computer pulls out the clutch to let the engine rev and then puts in back in. When an automatic does this, it usually shifts down at the same time, hence "fake shift".

The reason I suspect this is that occasionally I get a grinding noise when it does this. I think this is causing the clutch plate to get smoother over time until a catastrophic failure to engage causes too much scraping/heat and you get either broken bits or molten metal flying at your transmission housing. In one of the linked story threads ("Fire as a result of transmission failure"), he said that the fire started going at ~30mph in third gear and then started going up an incline. This is about the conditions that I get these "fake shifts".

The repair for this would entail everybody getting a new clutch because, as said earlier, it is probably difficult to tell by looking at it if it is not needed. The fix going forward will likely by the removal of "fake shifting" from the software.

Until I have the fix performed, I am going to be driving like a gentleman and refraining from driving people who need help getting out.
What in God's name are you talking about? The "computer" cannot operate the clutch. Your vehicle may have a problem if you have an engine rev while you are not touching the clutch pedal.
 

Therby

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My dealership said if you begin to smell the clutch or smell something burning that it would be a good time to bring to jeep in and they will assess it at that point and possibly give me a loaner. As of now its safe to drive, until it isnt
 

nunziotocci

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What in God's name are you talking about? The "computer" cannot operate the clutch. Your vehicle may have a problem if you have an engine rev while you are not touching the clutch pedal.
It seems like the computer is still programmed for an auto even though I have a manual. When you step on the gas in an auto it sometimes pulls the clutch and revs the engine a bit, then it shifts down and puts the clutch in.

I'm certain it's a problem, what I'm saying is that this a probable cause for the issues people are having.

Edit: spelling.
 

beaups

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It seems like the computer is still programmed for an auto even though I have a manual. When you step on the gas in an auto it sometimes pulls the clutch and revs the engine a bit, then it shifts down and puts the clutch in.

I'm certain it's a problem, what I'm saying is that this a probable cause for the issues people are having.

Edit: spelling.
Um, no it doesn't. The computer is not/can not actuate our clutches. You have a problem with your rig.
 
 



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