Sport To Rubicon Rear End Swap - Dana 44 LSD To Dana 44 Locker

[BJG]

Hi All,

This thread is tangential to "Knock In Rear". I have a 2018 Wrangler JLU Sport and am considering purchasing this guy brand new to squash this clunk problem forever...

https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/r...n-8ragX9-qmQJtM100iq9KtX3r_2_4lBoCzh4QAvD_BwE

1. Is this stupid? I know it's expensive but at this point I'm ready to sell my jeep and get a Rubicon which is going to cost me 15k in depreciation and taxes that I'll have to pay again most likely. I don't really want to move all of my upgrades to another vehicle. I love my jeep.

2. Does this axle come with everything that is needed and are all of the gears setup and dialed in? I don't want to bring this to a shop to mess with the gears. I want to swap in my garage and move on with life.

3. Has anyone done this and is it as straightforward as it sounds? I've already done a suspension swap to rubicon so I'm not that worried about the work.

4. Is the wider axle an issue of any kind? I'm not planning to touch the front axle. I have an M210 up front and M220 in the rear.

5. I repeat, is this stupid!? Haha

Thank You for any advice or opinions! I just don't want to hear the clunking anymore!

Brian

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[BJG]

Here is a somewhat long video showing the noise. I threw my phone on the rear floor to get this, so the scratching sound is the carpet fibers near the microphone as it slides around.

The clunk is heard perfectly, alot!

 

[XACEX]

The gearing is different as well as the axle width and brake hoses. I think it would be best to do the complete axle swap which is still a good deal in my opinion and will get rid of the issues we are having with the limited slip rear ends. Cheaper option is purchasing a open differential to install until a reasonably priced locker for these rear ends is introduced. The ARB is expensive ....

 

[BJG]

The gearing is different as well as the axle width and brake hoses. I think it would be best to do the complete axle swap which is still a good deal in my opinion and will get rid of the issues we are having with the limited slip rear ends. Cheaper option is purchasing a open differential to install until a reasonably priced locker for these rear ends is introduced. The ARB is expensive ....

Do you know if the link I posted includes everything like the brakes?

Also, I have 315/70 tires so gearing changes are ok, at least for me at the moment.

 

[fat_head]

Not stupid, and it will work. It's bolt in and play. However:

1) You'll have to re-gear your front to match the rear.
2) You'll have to wire a switch to enable the rear locker.
3) You can find low mile rubicon axles for a lot less than new.

 

[BJG]

Not stupid, and it will work. It's bolt in and play. However:

1) You'll have to re-gear your front to match the rear.
2) You'll have to wire a switch to enable the rear locker.
3) You can find low mile rubicon axles for a lot less than new.

Ahh yes. I forgot about matching the gear ratio in the front. Ok obviously that will elevate the cost. Unless a matching gearing can be found. Not sure if that even exists on rubi's.

Right now I have 3.45

 

[XACEX]

Do you know if the link I posted includes everything like the brakes?

Also, I have 315/70 tires so gearing changes are ok, at least for me at the moment.

I have no idea what is included other than the axle and e-locker on those. Most likely at minimum you would need to get some brake hoses for the Rubicon. There is several threads on doing the swap and I think a few have gotten away with using the sport lines somehow. You would need the wiring harness and a switch if you wsnt to use the locker. As far as a good deal I would look for Rubicon take off axles. If you are going to spend that much on new you might as well get some good aftermarked axles and avoid the other issue these will have with the bearings in the future. The axle tubes may be bigger, but the bearings they decided to switch to won't hold the load of a roller bearing that was in the JK axles. That is a whole nother thread.

 

[BJG]

I have no idea what is included other than the axle and e-locker on those. Most likely at minimum you would need to get some brake hoses for the Rubicon. There is several threads on doing the swap and I think a few have gotten away with using the sport lines somehow. You would need the wiring harness and a switch if you wsnt to use the locker. As far as a good deal I would look for Rubicon take off axles. If you are going to spend that much on new you might as well get some good aftermarked axles and avoid the other issue these will have with the bearings in the future. The axle tubes may be bigger, but the bearings they decided to switch to won't hold the load of a roller bearing that was in the JK axles. That is a whole nother thread.

Excellent points. This is the type of influence I'm looking for. I have the tow package so I was planning to use one of the Aux switches to control the locker.

I wouldn't mind just going with a dynatrac or something, but damn! $$$$$

You're right though, this would be getting into the $3,000+ range between regearing the front, purchasing / shipping a new Rubi axle.

 

[XACEX]

Excellent points. This is the type of influence I'm looking for. I have the tow package so I was planning to use one of the Aux switches to control the locker.

I wouldn't mind just going with a dynatrac or something, but damn! $$$$$

You're right though, this would be getting into the $3,000+ range between regearing the front, purchasing / shipping a new Rubi axle.

Not only the cost of the regear, but someone to install it. Axles are plug and play, regearing is not. There is some art to setting a gear set in a rear end. Personally I would never benefit from dana 60s or aftermarket 44s for what I encounter and would end up costing me more in the long run in just fuel economy driving around every day. I am on the hunt for some take off Rubicon axles myself. They are plenty fine for 35's, and have proven themselves with 37's so far. I have no need for anything over a 35, but 37 are tempting at times...

 

[scrape]

Have you considered just swapping in an open diff?

https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/standard-differential-kit-wrangler-jl-dana-44-rear-68401365AA

Install cost should be a lot cheaper than a gear change because the shop doesn't have to do pinion depth or pinion bearing preload. And if the open diff measures the same as your LSD, they don't have to do carrier shims or preload either. Literally just swap the ring gear over, press the bearings on, plop it back in, torque it down, you're done.

 

[Reabob]

Here is a somewhat long video showing the noise. I threw my phone on the rear floor to get this, so the scratching sound is the carpet fibers near the microphone as it slides around.

The clunk is heard perfectly, alot!

Unable to open the link...

 

[Therby]

Your swapping the axle for just the clunk?

if you’re not touching the front axle, I’d just out a rear locker in the m220 and call it good. Only thing is it has to be a ARB air locker as thats the only company offering a locker for the rear m220 from sports.

going to a rubicon rear isn’t much of an upgrade of what you have. The real upgrade would be the front axle

 

[Arrowhead]

Well for starter you can find those axles new at a lot better price. Second you might want to consider swapping out front and rear as others have mentioned instead of sinking money into the front so everything matches. If you can be patient these axles come up for sale used usually at a pretty reasonable price usually.

I went through the same thing on my sport with the rear end knock. I did the Rubi swap and never looked back. I'm on 35's now with stock 4:10 Rubi gears and am quite please with the performance (V6 w/auto). Swapping the axles is not hard, it's just a bunch of bolts. You don't need a lot of tools, just the right ones. Contrary to what the internet thinks, the Rubicon axles aren't that special and everything bolts up to the same brackets as a sport. They 1-1/2" wider and the brakes are different so you will have to open the hydraulics to swap calipers. The front hoses are different also so it's best to get new ones but some have said the sport ones can be made to work.

After I did the swap I pulled the cover on the original rear to see what the problem was. They have some issues going on there. It's almost like the side gears were loose on the axle shaft and flopping around. Ring and pinion were in perfect shape.

Here's a better deal on new ones:

https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-axle-assembly-rear-77072406

https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-axle-assembly-front-77072405

 

[Jamrock]

Well for starter you can find those axles new at a lot better price. Second you might want to consider swapping out front and rear as others have mentioned instead of sinking money into the front so everything matches. If you can be patient these axles come up for sale used usually at a pretty reasonable price usually.

I went through the same thing on my sport with the rear end knock. I did the Rubi swap and never looked back. I'm on 35's now with stock 4:10 Rubi gears and am quite please with the performance (V6 w/auto). Swapping the axles is not hard, it's just a bunch of bolts. You don't need a lot of tools, just the right ones. Contrary to what the internet thinks, the Rubicon axles aren't that special and everything bolts up to the same brackets as a sport. They 1-1/2" wider and the brakes are different so you will have to open the hydraulics to swap calipers. The front hoses are different also so it's best to get new ones but some have said the sport ones can be made to work.

After I did the swap I pulled the cover on the original rear to see what the problem was. They have some issues going on there. It's almost like the side gears were loose on the axle shaft and flopping around. Ring and pinion were in perfect shape.

Here's a better deal on new ones:

https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-axle-assembly-rear-77072406

https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-axle-assembly-front-77072405

Awesome...

So how did you connect the lockers to the dashboard?

 

[BJG]

Unable to open the link...

Try again? It should work now...

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